FABRIC TRENDS for Autumn.Winter 20/21: RETHINKIG FASHION

Even before the Autumn.Winter 20/21 season kicks off, one thing has become evident: this season will be a strong one conceptually. The numerous, in-depth discussions about sustainability, product innovations, the repeated call for more conscious consumption and the knowledge about transparency have led to fundamental shifts – both in fabrics and colours and last but not least, in the styles to be expected. The new focus is impressively reflected by this season’s trend theme BEYOND AWARE. This is bigger than fashion! It is about adding value, reflecting and developing and awareness. Itis an appeal to think afresh. Holistically, visionary, emotional.

It does not come as a surprise therefore that fabrics are calming down. Organically based and bio-engineered materials are positioning themselves as the outstanding themes for Autumn.Winter 20/21. Warm nuances of brown shades form the basis for accentuated colour harmonies. Styles are getting more comfortable and, as a result, silhouettes looser in fit.
What this new fashion orientation looks like in concrete terms and how individually this is interpreted for specific target groups is revealed by the over 1,600 collections of more than 800 international fabric suppliers at MUNICH FARBIC START.

’Trends no longer come as “one size fits all”. Self-contained trends are a thing of the past. The market calls for curated customer experiences that fit shoppers’ mindsets, not only in terms of looks but also in terms of content. Offline as well as online. This is about new value sets. Many of these visionary approaches, views of the world and revolutionary implementation concepts hail from the strong and by now global commitment of young people.’ Jo Baumgartner, Fabrics & Trends MUNICH FABRIC START

Some fabric manufacturers in interview:

DASHING TWEEDS

How do you translate this into look, feel and material composition?
We design all our fabrics by hand in our London studio before they are woven in Scotland. We are constantly experimenting with new weave structures and colour combinations as well as working with wool from various breeds of sheep. One of the philosophies at Dashing Tweeds is to combine heritage tweed sportswear with modern ideas of technical clothes. We do this by weaving yarns such as refl ective threads alongside traditional wool.

Brown is considered the trend colour for Autumn. Winter 20/21. Which colour accents do you use?
We have used a range of mottled colours this season. One of my favourites is the Gallant Check, a fabulously fun cloth in a large scale with over checks in yellow, green and red over a ground of blues, grey and brown. I also love our design of black Donegal with fl ecks of primary colour. A great cloth for day or evening wear.

What is your personal innovation highlight of the season?
This season we are introducing Dashing Classics as a bunch of our best designs. Th is includes our refl ective ‘Raver’ designs in a whole range of colours. These innovative fabrics are designed with urban cyclists and people who enjoy night life in mind. Th e cloths in Merino wool drape and tailor beautifully but also function as refl ective technical fabrics for modern sportswear.

DUTEL

Wool is becoming increasingly important. How do you translate this into look, feel and material composition?
Generally we use wool in blends. This results in qualities with a soft finish. Partly in loop looks, with cut thread effects or in a fur look. Currently, we also favor finer wool types. Sometimes interpreted as masculine, sometimes feminine. But always flowing and with elastane content.

Brown is considered the trend colour for Autumn. Winter 20/21. Which colour accents do you use?
Dutel combines colour accents such as light green or pink rose motifs for Autumn.Winter 20/21 in a wide variety of brown shades.

What is your innovation highlight of the season?
Our innovation theme for the new season is thermal jackets. Partly also our fake fur.

INCALPACA

Wool is becoming increasingly important. How do you translate this into look, feel, and material composition?
Our main material is alpaca. We have the advantage of being able to use a sustainable, environmentally friendly fiber. Alpaca garments have an excellent appearance which is hard to imitate. Alpaca fibers are much softer and smoother than other animal fibers or cotton.

Brown is considered the trend colour for Autumn. Winter 20/21. Which colour accents do you use?
For two seasons we have been emphasizing our “Pure” concept, which uses the natural colours of alpaca. These colours are divided into nine pure colours: white, light brown, light fawn, camel, light brown, brown, gray, blackened brown and black with many other subtle shades. Garments made from natural colours are much softer.

What is your innovation highlight of the season?
At Pacomarca – our experimental station – we have developed traceable batches of alpaca fiber. The alpacas are shorn once a year and our staff visits the communities or individual breeders to shear their animals and purchase the fiber directly. All traceable batches are hand sorted and processed separately from the regular batches.