The new summer season’s title is Clarity. It describes the longing for clear structures and simplification against the backdrop of our present environment and the growing complexity in many areas. The search for clarity ranges from the call for transparent production and supply chains to structured fashion themes with a meaningful use of colours, silhouettes and materials. Reduction and realism, paired with imagination and creativity, create a new awareness of quality, sustainability and design competence.

The juxtaposition of rediscovered craftsmanship and new technologies, urban and rural spaces, self-questioning and social cohesion, decoration and function reflect the momentary complexity. They are opposites that inspire each other and raise awareness of the need for quality and responsible consumption. Yet, what they all have in common is the desire to face challenges with confidence and creativity. The latter thrives at the interface between new technologies and tradition. Especially where the past and the future form common ground and the familiar mixes with the new.

The five seasonal themes reflect a broad spectrum that ranges from newly interpreted craftsmanship to the rediscovery of one’s own “I”, the synergy between city and country and the fascination for the unknown. The final theme is responsible optimism, a reminder to be active and confident in shaping our future.

The new minimalism is more than a “palate cleanser” that is intended to give our senses a brief opportunity to recover before the next wave of opulent taste experiences hits them again. It’s sure to linger simply because it is linked to our worldview. In contrast to previous generations, for us “simple” no longer just means “simple and poignant”, but also “sustainable because timeless”.

Two seasons ago, the DMI FASHION DAY at MUNICH FABRIC START was about the question “Should we slow down or speed up?”. We had prepared you for the fact that the desire to slow down fashion would soon reach the mainstream. A recent survey confirms that fashion trends that change too quickly are viewed increasingly critically: three quarters of all women are of the opinion that there are too many and too extreme trends. 65% believe trends are becoming less and less important. And almost 94% pride themselves on saying that they buy regardless of trends.

Longevity is currently very popular. And that doesn’t just mean more solid quality, but also and above all a more timeless design. Fashion is responding to this growing demand for timeless design with increasingly understated design. In this respect, the new minimalism continues the by now century-old tradition of “less is more”, but in a completely new zeitgeist setting. A lot of what is wrongly labelled “Quiet Luxury” actually doesn’t want to look like old money, but rather just be timeless.

Paradoxically, it is currently trendy not to be trendy. People want clothes that look timeless. But then again, paradoxically, timelessness is not timeless either. So we are faced with the challenge of creating a look that is trend-independent in a trendy way and timeless in a contemporary way.

INFORM & INSPIRE YOURSELF AT THE MUNICH FABRIC START AT DMI:

BLUEZONE

23/01 – 24/01/2024

MUNICH FABRIC START

23/01 – 25/01/2024

THE SOURCE

23/01 – 24/01/2024

BLUEZONE

23/01 – 24/01/2024

MUNICH FABRIC START

23/01 – 25/01/2024

KEYHOUSE

23/01 – 24/01/2024

Marvelling at the levels of sophistication and innovation modern fabrics have attained and continue to breach, it is easy to forget that our relationship with textiles is one of the most intimate and primal ones we have. Granted, today’s creations are (thankfully) far removed from the scratchy cloth our ancestors wore huddled around the fire.

But over the course of time, our relationship with textiles has changed. While we have – technically and commercially – never been closer to textiles, ambitiously engineering fabric compositions to cater to an increased demand of sustainability, for instance, we are ironically also stepping further away emotionally from what was once – literally – closest to us. Today, our engagement with textiles is largely dependent on the prism through which we choose to experience and value it:

We have increasingly come to approach textiles as objects of research and science, questioning what characteristics new fabrics ought to have and how existing textiles can be improved to comply with the ever-changing demands of the market. Impressive examples of such science-led approaches are two projects within the BIOTEXFUTURE-cluster, led by the Institute for Textile Technology (ITA) and the Chair for Technology and Organizational Sociology (STO) at RWTH Aachen together with their industry partner adidas. Within BIOTEXFUTURE, they investigate the transition of the textile value chain to bio-based materials, including alternatives to conventional elastane (CO₂Tex), or the establishment of bio-based polymers in the industry (BIOBASE).

Of course, textiles also lend themselves to in-depth material exploration, analysing intricacies of production and means of (p)rethinking and challenging standards. Think of leather and its unique characteristics – who would have thought something strikingly similar could be crafted from a hemp plant, as illustrated by Lucas Fuhrmann’s “Revoltech”? Or going so far as to almost brutally decontextualize a biomaterial like feathers from their original purpose of insulation, submitting it completely to the functionality of aesthetics, as Suzanne Corcessin has done with “Being Plucked”.

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IN THE SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AREA IN THE KEYHOUSE – H5!

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23/01 – 24/01/2024

MUNICH FABRIC START

23/01 – 25/01/2024

THE SOURCE

23/01 – 24/01/2024

MUNICH FABRIC START Autumn.Winter 24/25 s all about the seasonal leitmotif EACH OTHER. How can we look into the future without losing our minds? Between utter resignation and blind rage lies a hopeful, wise and unbiased perspective. Our future lies in the diversity of such calm, thoughtful and courageous approaches.

EACH OTHER emphasizes the importance of personal connection. We need to continuously stay in touch with each other, be there for one another and listen attentively – even in difficult times. What’s unique about fashion is that we can promote well-being through a variety of tactile and emotional fabrics and styles – not only in sales and use, but also in the field and in production.

WHAT’S NEW?

A multi-purpose black in combination with a light beige and a new anise are the key colours for Autumn.Winter 24/25. Strange colour duos like yellow/ mango, pink/peach or turquoise/blue bring fresh accents to the colour palette. In contrasts, cold and warm tones play with each other, in dark and light nuances, sometimes loud, sometimes quiet and as neutral or bright colors.

Decorative qualities are a recipe against crisis. Protection wear from cozy, lightweight to heavy weight fabrics are key for winter: a firework of creative yarns in volume, lightness, functionality and fancy combinations. Checks come in all variations, be it loud, quiet, big or small. A touch of trash, tech, nostalgie and 80ies brings bling in all variations. Open weaves or knits bring a nuance of winter transparency.

Casual comfort as standard: functional pragmatic classic and timeless styles come as coats, bomber jackets, suits, casual sakkos or padded styles. We play with extremes in width and wrapping volume for morning coat styles, over-shirts, blazers and baggies. Expressive looks are created for night and day with shine through elements rounded off by retro looks from the sixties, seventies and eighties.

We were so looking forward to the time after the pandemic and now this: war in Europe, bottlenecks in the energy supply and the highest inflation in 71 years. We all feel like we are out of luck and ill-fated. And that for a very long time.

Of course, the world wasn’t any better in former times. But it seems so to us. And because we experience the present as so troubled, we try to return to the light-heartedness we felt in the past. “I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes – not making image or buzz,” explains Demna. “Fashion has become a kind of entertainment, but often that part overshadows the essence of it, which lays in the way we create relationships between body and fabric,” state his show notes for Balenciaga.

Yes, in essence that’s it: “body and fabric”. JW Anderson sends these two basic ingredients, from which all fashion is created, down the catwalk before he starts his actual show. A naked body and a fresh roll of fabric – that is the tabula rasa, the blank slate on which fashion can reinvent itself once again. “How do we package people?” asks JW Anderson, as if all that were completely open-ended again.

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BLUEZONE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

MUNICH FABRIC START

18/07 – 20/07/2023

THE SOURCE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

Reflecting on the past and looking towards the future – what lies ahead in the sustainable fashion and innovative design industry?

There are two significant factors driving the evolution of the industry at present. Let’s begin with the first topic, which I refer to as the ‘process runway’. On one hand, the term ‘runway’ refers to the well-known fashion runway or catwalk. On the other hand, we can observe the growth of numerous companies and designers with a sustainable focus, who are maturing and becoming more professional, preparing themselves to connect and deliver. From this perspective, it becomes clear that companies and designers understand the need to continuously improve every step of the supply chain, striving for constant enhancement – what I call the process runway.

Could you elaborate on how these labels are improving and changing their production practices?

Certainly. Let’s delve into the example of Knitwear Lab, one of the exhibitors. They demonstrate how one client’s interactions have led to improved production and enhanced quality in several ways. In the past, their manufacturing process began with a rough sketch or digitally drawn idea. Subsequently, one single idea was prototyped multiple times, thus resulting in numerous samples, requiring significant time and numerous adjustments. This process was highly time and material-consuming. To streamline this process, Knitwear Lab embraced digitization. They created a variety of avatars with different size measurements and body types, providing a perfect digital replica for every body shape. With this approach, they can now experiment with more complex designs and experience the implications of different designs and special materials across all sizes, from XXS to XXL without producing supervacaneous samples, thus waste. This is crucial since the details of a finished garment can appear differently on various body sizes. Hence, they first create a digitally perfect fit and high-quality product. Once flawless digitally, it is then manufactured in reality. The benefits are numerous: customization, time and material savings, and cost efficiency – all essential sustainable considerations. Additionally, they can incorporate quality aspects. Cause after all efficient work processes and resource conservation remain significant challenges within the industry.

So, they transitioned from specialized skills to a broader scope?

Exactly. The progression follows this trajectory: initially, we have design studios focusing on their core strengths, on what they excel at. Simultaneously, they are eager to explore avenues for improving the customer journey, sustainability aspects, sourcing or design. It entails broadening their scope of responsibilities and possibilities. Within this transition lies immense potential, but it also presents several challenges. This is the nature of pursuing a goal – people need to collaborate, assume responsibility, and expand their horizons to harness the full potential and become more sustainable and efficient.

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IN THE SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AREA AT KEYHOUSE – H5!

BLUEZONE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

MUNICH FABRIC START

18/07 – 20/07/2023

THE SOURCE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

GET INFORMED & INSPIRED AT MUNICH FABRIC START AT DMI:

BLUEZONE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

MUNICH FABRIC START

24/01 – 26/01/2023

THE SOURCE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

What is currently happening in the industry of innovators, transformers and forwardthinkers?

Different developments can be observed – especially when it comes to upcoming designers and creators, which is very interesting yet inspiring. Newcomers are about either entering the industry or creating their own one; furthermore, they all developed a very high professionalism in everything they do and how they present their ideas. Storytelling matters, that’s why we see crafts that concern and that communicate about thoughts, materials and backgrounds. They somehow reflect on the state of the industry and/or they question current systems. Just with the eye on possibilities, not to add critique. It is a friendly way to inspire.

You just said creators are “entering the industry or creating their own one”. What do you mean by that?

Well, actually right as I say. Either people and ideas enter an industry OR they create an industry. Entering means that designers or creators just fit into an industry and can get part of it or they can develop their own techniques and make it scalable and somehow create their own. Let me give you an example: WINT Design Lab discovered a new material and also discovered how to use it in order to make it relevant for the market. Either they can enter the industry OR if they find possibilities to cover all the needs within the supply chain and develop the machines to produce in a big scale, they could go big and just create their own industry.

What other developments can you identify?

Back in the days, let’s say about five years ago, there was mainly one person behind a new idea that was working within a tiny studio. Compared to that, everything is so much more professional: being a material designer, you can have a studio and work with employees who assist. That is nowadays how designers get ready to present their idea to the market. You need people who bridge the gap between the studio and the market. I personally recognize a huge potential in this point of professionalism, because people get ready to connect – young designers now offer representative samples and get in touch with the industry on a very professional level. Newcomers inspire the industry.

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IN THE SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AREA AT KEYHOUSE – H5!

BLUEZONE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

MUNICH FABRIC START

24/01 – 26/01/2023

THE SOURCE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

Trend analyst Carl Tillessen not only observes; he anticipates. As a member of the management and chief analyst of the Deutsches Modeinstitut, he knows the textile and fashion to the smallest detail. Here he reveals the upheavals and trend changes that are in store for us.

How can you foresee which trends will develop?
What role does culture play, do current events play?

As part of an association of the most important trend institutions in the world, DMI always sets the key directions for a season two and a half years in advance. To think that far ahead, it is not enough to sell people something as a trend that is already visible in Milan, Paris and New York. You have to recognise trends before they become visible. Let me explain it this way: A bad trend analyst and a good trend analyst go to a bar. They see that the guests are nibbling salty biscuits. The bad trend analyst says: ‘People are eating savoury biscuits. We need savoury biscuits.’ The good trend analyst says, ‘People will get thirsty soon. We need drinks.’

Are people consuming more again right now? If so, why? Does compensation (e.g. for the time lost during the pandemic years) play a role?

Yes and no: No, little is being consumed at the moment. Yes, compensation plays a big role. Before the pandemic, people had increasingly spent money on experiences and less on things. Then the pandemic came and many experiences were not possible or not allowed. So people spent more money on things again. Accordingly, retail sales in the last two years have been much higher than before Corona. Now people are trying to make up in one summer for everything that was cancelled in the last two summers – trips, weddings, festivals, concerts … That costs a lot of money. And this money is missing from the shopping budget.

BLUEZONE

30/08 – 31/08/2022

MUNICH FABRIC START

30/08 – 01/09/2022

THE SOURCE

30/08 – 01/09/2022

The MUNICH FABRIC START Autumn.Winter 23/24 will be staged in the seasonal theme FURORE. Catch the eye, cause a stir and get excited about new worlds like the metaverse, a new sense of community or newly developed organic materials. But FURORE also stands for a bit of frenzy and anger about all the things that are going on in the world right now. Outside as well as inside our common industry, which we do not want to close our minds to, but want to and will face up to. The world is changing faster than we are used to.

WHAT’S NEW?

The key colours of this season are warm, earthy ochre and a digital-electric blue. Natural hues set the tone – cool or warm – along with deep blue, sulphur, and turquoise contrasted with rainbow highlights.

Materials amaze through new extremes – from maximum padded cosiness to ultra-light fluidity. Patterns blow up to an ultimate size and checks and camouflage are oversized. Wool and fake furs offer an enhanced tactile sensation.

Progressive silhouettes make statements with extreme lengths and oversized cuts. Skinny shapes and cut-outs create a sexy contrast, while new coordinates meet ski-wear influences.

WITHSTAND

Picture credit:
OAMC RE-WORK

SPRING.SUMMER 23 TREND FORECAST

Last chance: SS 23 Trend Book & Colour Code – the optimal source of inspiration and information for your collection development.

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The magazine offers insights with interviews, guest articles and innovative material from our international exhibitors.

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21 – 22/06/2022

MUNICH FABRIC START

30/08 – 01/09/2022

BLUEZONE

30/08 – 31/08/2022

Inspired by fantasy creatures of the techno era and gaming, patterns pop up as hip graphics.
3-D effects, sometimes visual, sometimes haptic additionally activate prints and patterns…

SPRING.SUMMER 23 TREND FORECAST

Last chance: SS 23 Trend Book & Colour Code – the optimal source of inspiration and information for your collection development.

READ MUNIQUE E-MAGAZINE ONLINE

The magazine offers insights with interviews, guest articles and innovative material from our international exhibitors.

VIEW Premium Selection

21 – 22/06/2022

MUNICH FABRIC START

30/08 – 01/09/2022

BLUEZONE

30/08 – 31/08/2022

GET YOUR SPRING.SUMMER 23 TREND FORECAST

Last chance: SS 23 Trend Book & Colour Code – the optimal source of inspiration and information for your collection development.

READ THE LAST MUNIQUE E-MAGAZINE ONLINE

The magazine offers insights with interviews, guest articles and innovative material from our international exhibitors.

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21 – 22/06/2022

MUNICH FABRIC START

30/08 – 01/09/2022

BLUEZONE

30/08 – 31/08/2022

READ MUNIQUE E-MAGAZINE ONLINE

The magazine offers insights with interviews, guest articles and innovative material from our international exhibitors.

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21 – 22/06/2022

MUNICH FABRIC START

30/08 – 01/09/2022

BLUEZONE

30/08 – 31/08/2022

The Spring.Summer 23 season is all about EVERY.BODY – a new definition of individuality and community. In the search for optimism and balance, there is a longing for personal exchange and the haptic experience of textiles – exactly what is missing without trade shows.