Sustainability

Rivet 50 – A Collective Perspective on the Global Denim Industry

A COLLECTIVE PERSPECTIVE ON THE GLOBAL DENIM INDUSTRY

12. October 2020

Rivet’s Influential 50 is an index of the most creative and forward-thinking leaders, driving the global jeans industry. Last week, Rivet 50 announced the winners for the 2020 edition which presented the top 50 influential leaders in advancing the worldwide business of making and marketing denim.

The 2020 Rivet 50 features diverse players in the denim business, represented across five categories: executive, designer, retailer, influencer and supply chain. Spanning sustainable fashion designers, independent retailers, Made in USA entrepreneurs and philanthropic business leaders. The list includes: Katy Al-Rubeyi, Story Mfg. co-founder; James Bartle, Outland Denim founder and CEO; Amy Leverton, Denim Dudes founder; designer Maurice Malone; Ida Peterson, Browns buying director; Tony Tonnaer, founder and CEO of Kings of Indigo; Renzo Rosso, OTB Group founder and president, and more.

Now in its third year, this edition of the annual index is focused especially on revealing a collective perspective from our industry leaders in times of Covid-19. Each of the 50 winners have shared their unique insights on the most pressing and significant questions hanging over the future of the denim industry for 2021.

“Though we remain socially distant, we hope the launch of the 2020 Rivet 50 offers the denim industry the opportunity to come together, spark online conversations and create the future,” said Angela Velasquez, Rivet executive editor.

Among the winners is our very own BLUEZONE initiator Sebastian Klinder who secured a coveted spot as one the influential Rivet 50, 2020 for his dedication and influence shown in developing the future-orientated platform for the denim industry as well as for the textile industry.

When asked in an interview with Rivet 50, “What change would you like to see in the denim industry as a result of Covid-19?”

Sebastian answers: “I would like pre-pandemic selfishness to remain a thing of the past and continue to nurture a sense of community. People must change the way they live and consume in order to stop using earth’s resources so selfishly. I personally believe in the opportunities created by nearshoring and for the industry in general to move closer together again—cohesion, cooperation and the right industrial partnerships will be essential. We should embrace the spirit of ‘many things are possible’ as well as the motto ‘it’s only possible together.’”

See the full interview with Sebastian Klinder here.

Also, longstanding member of our denim family Lucie Germser secured a well-earned spot on the 2020 list for proven dedication to developing and strengthening the global denim industry through creative branding and content solutions for a host of denim brands, suppliers, magazines and of course our denim trade show event, BLUEZONE.

When asked in an interview with Rivet 50, What changes would you like to see in the denim industry as a result of Covid-19?

“There are three important things that should change. We need to choose the best shipping solutions to avoid pollution. We need to bring back a part of our ‘savoir-faire’ locally to prevent the spread of disease, and we need tenderness and less competitiveness in our behaviour. Helping each other will definitely help us to work in a better way than if we’re against one another.”

See the full interview with Lucie Germser here.

Congratulations to all of the winners for the Rivet 50, 2020 edition. For more insights from leading denim specialists see the complete 2020 Rivet 50 list here.

OPENING TIMES

2. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
3. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
4. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 16:00

 LOCATION

MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Groundfloor
Lilienthalallee 40
Germany, 80939, Munich


From Trash to Treasure by Youyang Song

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #4

Dutchman Simon Angel has found a talented designer whose innovation makes it possible to create textiles from recycled bioplastics. The curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS presented these and three other developments during the FABRIC DAYS.

„More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback”, explains Simon Angle in our interview with him.

An example of this is presented here as part of the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS:

FROM TRASH TO TREASURE BY YOUYANG SONG

How can innovative products be created without using new resources? How can we stop growing mountains of waste? Use the old to create the new: The designer and materials researcher Youyang Song has set herself the goal of helping to develop an ecosystem consisting of purely biodegradable materials. Handbags made of banana peel, lampshades made of soy milk – the designer processes organic waste into new recyclable materials. This results in products that can be returned to the natural cycle at the end of the product life cycle.

„Our goal is to establish a circular economy regarding the materials and follow the sustainable development guidelines to create our products.“

Youyang Song

Song has developed the “Cooking new materials” technique, in which fruit peels or soy milk are mixed with a natural binding agent. “APeel” is the name of the soft, innovative material created by this process. The natural product is also waterproof and robust like real leather, smells fruity, has a natural texture and is completely biodegradable. Protecting the environment in style: With her project, Song wants to show that environmentally friendly products can be not only practical, but also aesthetic and stylish.


Perfect Imperfection by Studio Mend

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #3

FABRIC DAYS presented futuristic innovations of international manufacturers. Besides, Sustainable Innovations curator Simon Angel introduced innovative developments of young designers in the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS forum.

“Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative”, states Simon Angle in our interview with him.

An example of this “traditional innovation” is:

PERFECT IMPERFECTION BY STUDIO MEND

A new pair of jeans for 29,99€, a t-shirt for 7,99€. Constantly changing trends, synthetic fabrics and inferior quality: Since fast fashion conquered the world in the 1960’s, new clothes are available everywhere and at all times. What is broken is thrown away and what is no longer in fashion lies unused in the cupboard. More than two million tonnes of textile waste are generated annually in the European Union alone. When did our relationship to clothing change in such a way? This question was asked by the young fashion designer Sunniva Amber Flesland. She founded Studio Mend in 2019 to bring back the emotional and material value of what we wear.

 

“I am excited by raw material, old crafts and traditions, beauty, and looking for potential where it’s not easily seen.”

Sunniva Amber Flesland

Appreciate, repair, refine: At Studio Mend, traces of wear and tear from through the lifespan of the garments are repaired in a very special way. Island Weave, Edge Mend, Pinstripe Patch, Crossover Stitch: The customer can choose between these four carefully developed technical styles to make his or her damaged favourite piece whole again. In combination with individual colour designs, valued and unique pieces are created. The acceptance of transience and imperfection – this is the basic principle of the Japanese philosophy Wabi Sabi, which served as inspiration for Flesland. Instead of hiding faults, they are celebrated as signs of an eventful life. Visibly and ingeniously, the artist creates valuable, aesthetic and unique pieces as a statement for a better fashion world.


Solar Self by Pauline van Dongen

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #2

Every season, Simon Angel is searching for the four most futuristic SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS.

These four sustainable developments have been presented at FABRIC DAYS – one of them being this textile innovation that combines technology and fashion in a unique way:

SOLAR SELF by PAULINE VAN DONGEN

A dress to recharge your smartphone? What sounds like utopia is already tangible reality. For their project “Zonnestof” (“Sun Dust”), Pauline Van Dongen and Maaike Gottschal have developed a woven textile with thin, flexible solar cells, thus creating new aesthetic qualities and material properties. A play on colour, texture and transparency: By combining the solar cells with different yarns and various weaving patterns and techniques, a wide range of textiles can be produced.

“The creative process invites people to participate, to explore their dreams and wishes as well as to show what role solar energy can play in their daily lives. All participants become owners of the project through their contribution and thus part of a larger movement.”

Pauline van Dongen

But the Dutch fashion designers and researchers are not only interested in embedding technology in fashion. The initiators of the project are much more interested in the social experience of working with solar fabrics and wearing technology on the body. In workshops, the project invites the participants to create their own piece of “solar design” and weave a sustainable future. Instead of seeing nature and technology as opponents, Van Dongen and Gottschal want to make technology something that goes without saying. And it is not only fashion that can gain unprecedented added value from solar fabric: The textile can also be used in architecture or interior design, for new transport concepts and in public spaces as well as for events and festivals.


Living Material by Iris Bekkers

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION Autumn.Winter 21/22 #1

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel presented four developments for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 at FABRIC DAYS at the beginning of September. The Dutchman is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world.

In our latest interview with him, he stated: “With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible.”

Let us now present you the first of this season’s SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENTS:

LIVING MATERIAL BY IRIS BEKKERS

Doesn’t fit anymore, doesn’t fit properly: Many of our favourite pieces of clothing lose their shape after a short time and are shipped directly to the nearest garbage dump. Textiles that adapt to individual body shapes and external conditions could reform the fashion and textile industry.

To create such textiles, product designer Iris Bekkers uses auxetic materials in her project “Moving Structures”, i.e. stretchable materials that can adapt their structure to their surroundings. As part of her final project at Eindhoven University of Technology, she has developed a special face mask that not only adapts to different face shapes, but also adapts its filter function to the environment and is very breathable.

More comfort, longer wearing time, less waste: Due to their geometric structures, auxetic materials become thicker when stretched, rather than thinner like most fabrics. The potential of such fabrics ranges from jackets that adapt to the seasons and can therefore be worn in summer and winter, to shoes that change their flexibility and stability as required. Bringing the material to life: For her designs, Iris Bekkers not only thinks about the material and its texture, but also about the context in which the fabrics are used and enjoyed. Only in this way can her designs combine man and nature.

“The auxetic samples are the start and inspiration for a range of products that can adapt and transform themselves, functioning optimally in different circumstances. The potential for adaptability results in more value, more function and a reduction in the quantity of materials and products necessary.”

Iris Bekkers


SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, Big Changes & New Challenges

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, BIG CHANGES & NEW CHALLENGES

AN INTERVIEW WITH SIMON ANGEL

18. August 2020

An interview with SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel – the Dutchman who is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world. You will find Simon and the four SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS he chose this season in the foyer of hall 4 at FABRIC DAYS.

Save your personal eTicket for FABRIC DAYS!

  1. Simon, what new innovations can we expect this season?

Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative. This edition ‘the new thing’ is referring to something old like weaving, repairing and recycling. For example, weaving with solar-panels from Pauline van Dongen, repairing as value-creation from Studio Mend or value adding applications by Auxetics and industry ready, recycled bioplastic fabrics by Studio YouYang. All these projects use traditional crafts and materials, but in a new and innovative way.

2.         In 2020, the Corona pandemic brought the world to an unscheduled stop. But the crisis has also sped up the movement towards a more sustainable lifestyle. How will this shape innovation?

As you know, I’m an optimist. This year’s developments actually encouraged change. How you look at things makes a big difference in order to get yourself in the right inspired mode. Pandemics or heatwaves are nature’s way of confronting us. Just like we are experiencing changes in our environment, the nature experienced changed by humans for years and is now responding to us. All this is leading us to a dialogue with nature – a much needed one. Bit by bit we realise we exist as part of nature. Designers, scientists, the industry and consumers change their habits and question old methods. Finally, most of us start to realise what is necessary to ultimately save our world. We can only achieve that, when we are searching to find the balance with ourselves and with nature.

  1. It is the sixth time that you are curating the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS. How has this year’s edition been different?

The responses to sustainable innovations are new. The dialogue is getting serious. For example, have a look at the location of the Sustainable Innovations forum this year: It has moved from the Keyhouse to the main hall, right in the heart of the industry. Right at the spot where the big changes happen.

  1. This year’s innovations are all about the material: textiles created out of biowaste fabrics, adapting its shape to the environment – can you give us a glimpse into the material of the future?

With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible. As you can see, this future finds its inspiration in old traditions, crafts and resources. But what comes after that? It is hard to predict as the world is losing its linearity as we know it. More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: design and shapes will not be the main focus of designers anymore. Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback – and we will have to redefine the product development process and all that entails. We have to open our minds and let go of expectations. We have to source from our universal knowledge to create something that in this form has never been there before.

  1. How can we see the current situation as an opportunity to innovate, rather than for all the challenges it presents?

This situation shows on a holistic level, that humans have to develop themselves and challenge the Status quo. Enjoy the experience as it opens up new horizons which we could never have dreamt of. Look at the Munich Fabric Start, with the Fabric Days they showed how to deal with unforeseen  obstacles and ever changing circumstances – a pretty good demonstration of a future recipe for attitude, mental shift and permanent dialogue. So yes, let’s see every day as a chance for a better tomorrow.

Learn more about Simon’s sustainable novelties for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 during the three days of FABRIC DAYS from 1 – 3 September 2020 at MOC Munich.

FABRIC DAYS AUTUMN.WINTER 21/22

 

OPENING HOURS

1 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
2 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
3 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 4.00 PM

 

LOCATION

MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Ground Floor
Lilienthalallee 40
D – 80939 Munich

>> REGISTER FOR FABRIC DAYS <<

Understanding Sustainable Manufacturing: Our Icon System

UNDERSTANDING SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING: OUR ICON SYSTEM

23. April 2020

Introduced for the first time at the latest edition of Munich Fabric Start in February 2020, our icon guidance system became a welcomed and essential tool for the professionals visiting our trend forums. Saving time and streamlining the search process, our guidance system has been developed to accompany trend forum fabrics, trims and products to quickly and clearly communicate sustainable properties and technical functions. The response to this system has been hugely positive, based on feedback received at the show.

Take a look at the system in action at our trend forums:

Each of the 44 icons indicates a specific characteristic related to the sustainability or performance of the respective product. With the help of these icons, manufacturers can highlight the added value of their products and at the same time make it easier for interested buyers to navigate through the increasingly vast range of products on offer.

With our new icon guidance system, we are highlighting the interface between contemporary aesthetics and invisible but important advanced product features. In doing so, we see MUNICH FABRIC START neither as a certification body nor an audit agency – for the given classification, we rely on the information and honesty of the respective supplier of the corresponding samples. We are thus taking an important step towards information, transparency and responsible action in the interest of the industry.
Jo Baumgartner, Fabrics & Trends MUNICH FABRIC START

In this sense, all specific properties such as eco-labels, social standards, performance indicators, limit values, chemical ingredients, etc. must be verified again with the respective provider.


Fashion Revolution at Munich Fabric Start

FASHION REVOLUTION TAKES PRIDE OF PLACE AT MUNICH FABRIC START

22. April 2020

Since Fashion Revolution started, consumers, activists, brands and businesses have used their voices to demand change from the fashion industry to ensure fashion is made in a safe, clean and fair way. In our position as an industry platform we are able to convey the significance of this movement to our community of fashion professionals but also to our global network of manufacturers and suppliers operating in the textile and fashion industry.

At previous editions of our shows we reached out to our exhibitors to get involved in the viral movement #WHOMADEMYCLOTHES and send us photographs of their team responding to the question ‘Who Made My Fabrics, Trims, Prints and Denim?’. Displaying these in our busy trend and entrance areas helps send a powerful message to our audience and communities that these businesses are prepared and willing to support this Fashion Revolution movement leading to greater transparency and traceability throughout the supply chain, from fiber all the way to the end consumer.

Sustainability in the textile and fashion industry is hugely multifaceted therefore the aim at our events is not only to provide a platform to promote new sustainable technology, material and fibre innovation but also to provide the necessary resources and educational tools to encourage and support the growth of sustainable processes and practices. Find out how we are creating future with KEYHOUSE, our hub for innovation at Munich Fabric Start.

The response at our shows has been overwhelmingly positive and exhibitor involvement has been a great success which we hope will continue to grow season after season. Once again, #WHOMADEMYCLOTHES will be featured in the trend areas and entrance ways at the upcoming MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE shows in September 2020. Read the latest news on our event planning during these times of Covid-19, here.

FASHION REVOLUTION WEEK
Fashion Revolution Week 2020 will shine a light on the steps needed to bring about revolutionary change at this pivotal point in the history of the fashion industry. Now, more than ever before, the industry is coming under increasing scrutiny and millions of people around the world are expected to participate in Fashion Revolution Week as it moves online.  Find out how you can get involved now.


Foreign Foraging – Jeannette Lili Weiss on scarcity & abundance

Someone goes hunting – and returns with a bag full of plastic. This scenario, which Jeannette Lili Weiss creates with her project “Foreign Foraging”, is not so far away from reality. The authors of a study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation warned three years ago that by 2050, plastic waste in the sea could weigh more than all schools of fish put together. With “Foreign Foraging”, the artist and designer poetically addresses the complex problem of scarcity and abundance in times of climate change.

„I use poetry and design to address environmental issues. In that way, I hope to reach people on an emotional level and to make them care.“ Jeannette Lili Weiss, Artist and designer

Two woven carpets of recycled fishing nets and plastic elements from the sea are accompanied by a poem telling the story of a transformation: While resources are becoming scarcer and the lives of many animals are threatened, plastic is abundant. The ocean changes from a source of food to a source of material and confronts humans with the question: What can still be hunted in this increasingly man-made nature? Weiss’ answer is both visually appealing and frightening.

As I take what I find, I work with what the sea spits out. I collect traces of humankind.
(Extract from the poem „I am a forager“)


CT Dairy - Gal Yakobovitch Presents Textile Coating Made From Milk

The price of milk production has risen. The consequences for farmers in the US state of Conneticut, which is known for its dairy industry, are noticeable. To test new revenue opportunities, the TILL: (Today’s Industrial Living Landscapes) studio has asked New York based designer Gal Yakobovitch to test the use of milk in fashion. The idea was implemented in the bioFASHIONtech Lab in Stamford.

„The most important aspect of sustainable Design in my eyes is communication. Collaborative work and process sharing are the foundations of innovative design practices.“ Gal Yakobovitch, Designer

The milk protein Casein is already used for the production of hard plastic. This inspired Yakobovitch to develop a water-repellent coating for clothing. The result is CT Dairy: In collaboration with a local farm called Shaggy Coos, Yakobovitch developed sustainable unisex workwear from vegetable-dyed, second-hand t-shirts. She combined the fabric elements in a patchwork technique to form an apron dress and a trouser-shirt combination and coated them with milk. The rubber-like cover emphasises the comic-like prints of the t shirts and creates a contemporary look.