About the author

Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.

Muchaneta Ten Napel | editor@fashnerd.com

#bluezone #internationaldenimtradeshow #denimindustry #sustainablefabrics #deniminnovations #denimmaterial #tradeshow #backtothefuture

ABOUT BLUEZONE – THE INTERNATIONAL DENIM TRADE FAIR

Founded in 2003 as the first of its kind denim dedicated show, BLUEZONE has established itself as one of the most substantial business platforms for the global denim, street and sportswear market. Leading denim pioneers showcase their most recent denim novelties to the international denim and fashion community. With a strong commitment to excellence and a highly innovative approach, BLUEZONE is a key event to present quality materials, share know-how and discover innovations and the latest trends in a unique blue-blooded environment for denim beyond the seasons. Simultaneously and right next to BLUEZONE, the International Fabric Trade Fair MUNICH FABRIC START showcases novelties in fabrics, accessories and prints twice a year so that visitors can source from a varied textile portfolio offered by some 1000 international suppliers. In between the shows, everyone interested in the denim industry is invited to discover news and denim stories on www.bluezone.show. The next BLUEZONE show takes place in Munich from 31 August – 1 September 2021.

As we enter a new decade of denim, we see how the ongoing current global crisis does not limit us, we keep each other safe as it keeps us in but WE ARE ALL IN this together. Our denim world is shaped by the world’s reactions, anticipations and innovations. We look forward with strength and prospects for what we achieve today.

The five denim trends reveal the blueprints for a new physical and digital future, our new ‘phygital’ world. A new urbanity shows us a life in harmony with Mother Earth. Ethnic influences brought back from world travels are key to understanding what will nourish us and without a doubt, blow our denim heads in the upcoming seasons.

Simon Angel has been the curator of the Sustainable Innovations Area in the KEYHOUSE since 2018. For the Munich Fabric Start fair, he is looking for exciting young designers, extraordinary innovations and new perspectives from the textile world. Register now to attend Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE.

Simon, what Sustainable Innovations can we look forward to this season?

Each season, we try to present textile tendencies and new materials to inspire and broaden the context, techniques, meaning and value of textile related topics. Our goal is to show a glimpse of a possible future, so the industry and its professionals can use it to get to the next level. It is a constant dialogue. We are a community, growing and connecting together, sharing visions and ideas – it’s an inspiring atmosphere.

This edition of Munich Fabric Start’s Sustainable Innovations is a prime example to this approach – not only in respect to the responsibility held as a textile fair but also from the attitude and perspectives of the designer’s present. You see their visions in sound-created and laser print work. You feel their ideas in the provocative perspective that plastic is part of our natural landscape. And in the concept that ditching seams can lead to new manufacturing techniques and design approaches. But also, in revaluing materials like sisal and paper and the use of core natural elements like milk, starch and salt-crystals. I am positive that these projects will start a dialogue we can all learn from.

Again and again, the fear of the future, the consequences of environmental pollution and climate change emerge in the curated works. Challenge or opportunity, what do you think?

Your question shows that we are all still at very different stages in the process. Some people are aware and concerned about the transformations our environment is facing. Some are becoming aware of the changes and starting to value what still is. Others are reacting with action, ready to change the game. Specifically that we all have different point of views – with even more concerns to consider. So, there is not one dialogue, there are hundreds. There is not one solution, there is – as I refer to it – a chain of change happening on all levels. Therefore, I there is no “or” in between, instead it is an “and”: We have challenges AND opportunities. All of the designers offer opportunities through different approaches and create change, as challenging as it is.

The use of potato starch, old printing methods and traditional Korean craftsmanship – one could almost say that “back to the roots” is the motto of the upcoming season. Posing the question, where does this development come from?

As designers are digging deeper, they often rediscover historic production processes and design principles, that make sense in the now as well. “We learn from history that we never learn from history”, a quote of a dear friend of mine. Now I learn that there are two meanings to this. The project of Caterina Tiolo is a good example for how changing the order of an old process can lead to totally new approaches – design and material wise. The development of redefining traditional processes and ingredients is really exciting. Or look at “Consumption of heritage” by Lee Sun: She uses traditional crafts and simple materials like paper in a modern fashion context and in that way values her heritage. So yes, if “back to the roots” to you means “revitalise tradition and values”, it is certainly a dominant development.

You are curating the Sustainable Innovations for the fifth time this season. What has changed?

From my perspective, it is not working on changes – we are working on this as a journey. I see many strong developments and tendencies and they are driven by dedicated professionals. Not only business and money-driven but instead also by values. I see that the industry is working on becoming a better version of itself. Feeling a glimpse of shared responsibility between designers, manufacturers, press and media, I am very optimistic. In the end it is all about the perfect couple: quality and consciousness.

2020 – a new decade begins. Looking to the future: how do you think the interplay of sustainability and textiles will develop?

As optimistic as I may sound – the more research I do in the field of textiles and fashion, it all comes down to our individual responsibilities: our behaviours as a human, existing as a consumer in this economic system. The causality of change has two central elements to start with: demand and supply. We have to stop putting ‘the good’ into a colonial and capitalistic context as from the early start of textile history to the fashion world of the now: The more we are aware and the more we share, together we can make this a great journey. Let’s take this chance and restore the enthusiasm to this economic world. Let’s thrive!

Visit Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE on February 4-6 2020 in Munich.

During the previous edition of MUNICH FABRIC START, you presented the Smart Textile Pop-up Lab at the KEYHOUSE. What was it all about?

The aim of this Pop-up Lab was to familiarize people with smart textiles, and in particular those created by printed electronics. Through my work at Holst Centre (a leading Dutch R&D centre), I see the potential of printed electronics for the textile industry. These printed electronics are thin and stretchable and the printing process allows for a modular design approach. Moreover, they are made using familiar processes, namely through screen-printing conductive inks on flexible substrates like TPU and then heat bonding these smart “trims” onto textile. Visitors of the Pop-up Lab could see this process up close to better understand it and be inspired by the possibilities.

This time, visitors of the fair can book a (free) session in “The Nurture Room”. View the timetable and register here.

What will they experience there?

After having successfully shown the process of printing electronics and their integration in textiles, it is time for the next step. The Nurture Room is a space to reflect and to meet likeminded people who share a wish to do things differently within the fashion industry. It invites open dialogues addressing the urgency to create new relationships between humans and the clothing they wear.

The aim of the sessions at The Nurture Room is to not only inspire participants, but to ensure that they can follow up their inspiration with concrete actions once back in the office. You will be guided through the session by wearable technology experts: Pauline van Dongen and Marina Toeters. By booking a session on a particular topic, such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear, you can tap into a wealth of knowledge and simultaneously help shape the direction of developments in the field of wearables.

The sessions are meant to connect companies covering the full value chain, in order to collectively contribute to new product developments. Together, we will discuss ways to embed technologies into clothing in ways that can nurture people and improve their wellbeing. Visitors will be able to encounter the latest developments that fall within this scope, such as MYSA 2.0: a “relax shirt” that guides the wearer through breathing exercises that can be felt through subtle vibrations along the spine.

Can you tell us a bit more about your own research and how the idea of The Nurture Room relates to it?
In my own research, I focus on the way clothing mediates between our bodies and the world. Our clothes shape how we relate to the world, they actively shape our perceptions and our actions. I look at how we can strengthen our relationship and emotional bond with clothing and, by wearing clothing, with others and with the environment. When our clothes become active and responsive, how will this affect the human-garment relationship for example? My research shows that when we create wearables, we need to take into account the full set of experiential qualities of the garment, and not just the functionality of the technology. I extensively describe this approach in my recent book “A Designer’s Material-Aesthetics Reflections on Fashion and Technology”. It also includes practical guidance for designers and engineers who wish to develop wearables.

As a designer working between the fields of fashion design, textile innovation and technology, I understand these different worlds and know how to connect them. I would like people entering this space to think very consciously about what they want to develop and for whom, what new values the product will bring to people and how they incorporate considerations relating to the well-being of the planet. This ambition is reflected in the concept of The Nurture Room.

Why did you call it “The Nurture Room”?

Nurture is care that is given to someone while they are growing and developing. The term reflects the care with which we should all treat industry. In the context of “nature vs nurture”, the word “nurture” describes the influence of learning and other influences from one’s environment. I experienced how many new things I had to learn when I made a turn to wearables. In wanting to change the system as well as my own position and attitude as a designer, I also noticed that I needed to shed some of the premises that formed the basis for my fashion education. This learning and unlearning are processes that not many people in the industry take the time for or get the time for. While new perspectives are so desperately needed right now. So, to help facilitate this, our main message is: “Come and nurture yourself, by expanding your knowledge in the area of wearable technology.”

Visit The Nurture Room at MUNICH FABRIC START on February 4-6 2020 in Munich, Keyhouse, Booth #34

Due to the limited number of places available for the free individual workshops, we kindly ask you to register by mail to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.

WORKSHOP TIMETABLE

Tuesday, 4^th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: sports & activewear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: wool & tailoring

Wednesday, 5^th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: workwear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: intimates
16.00 – 16.45 pm: outdoor

Thursday, 6^th February
12.00 – 12.45 pm: casualwear

The Hightex Award is an opportunity to recognise the most significant, innovative and resourceful developments selected among Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone exhibitors. As we prepare to showcase the novelties of 2020, let’s take a look through the 2019 winners of the 6^th & 7^th editions of Hightex Award.

1st Place
Becker Tuche from Aachen has been awarded for a new, super lightweight and highly functional product development consisting of a combination of wool and Cordura with spandex. Despite the low weight, the new fabric has a high abrasion resistance and a very high water vapour permeability. The new product is ideal for outdoor styles, streetwear and corporate fashion.

“I am very pleased with this Award. For more than a year now we at Becker Tuche have looked into mixing various clothing segments from fashion, sportswear/outdoor, Corporate Fashion and workwear. Against this background the Wool Performance series combines classic wovens in wool and wool blends with such functions as wind breaking and waterproofing well-known from sportswear. The result is an individually coordinated quality portfolio fit for many applications. In response to the strong interest we are currently developing other fabrics made of wool/Cordura with technical functions.”
Peter Recker, CEO Becker Tuche, Aachen

2nd Place
The second place was received by Soorty Enterprises for “Rain Shield”, an extremely light, recycled and water-repellent denim in Tencel/Nylon blend that impressed not only numerous features but also with its elegant look. The fast-drying, water-repellent, heat-insulating and form-resistant product also scored with a soft grip and subtle gloss finishing.

3rd Place
Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri came in third place with two Hyperlight 3Layer fabrics and the associated continuous development of innovations and functional materials. The Italian company always finds new ways and solutions to combine comfort and function perfectly and is known for its high-tech developments in the sportswear and outerwear segment. For example, heat-insulating, reflective and ultra-light qualities with water-repellent, bacteria-resistant and breathable graphene membrane that glow in darkness.

1^st Place
RDD TEXTILES from Portugal wins first place with a bonded double-sided jersey quality. Outstanding was the jury’s assessment of the development of this new bonding technique through an environmentally conscious mechanical process and newly developed without any additional adhesive. For the filling, 100% Tencel TM which uses an environmentally friendly fiber. According to RDD Textiles this excellent jersey quality, first introduced at MUNICH FABRIC START, is breathable, warming, comfortable, extremely lightweight and absolutely fashionable.

„We are very happy about this award, which we have now received for the second time. The award especially means a lot to us because this now award winning article is a real novelty. For the launch of this outstanding jersey quality, the HighTex Award is a welcomed marketing tool to publicize this novelty in the marketplace.“
Elsa Parente, RDD TEXTILES

2^nd Place
Second place goes to M.T.T. SPA MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA from Italy for a wool quality with 14 percent polyamide content currently offered at a high fashion level. This is ensured by a graphic PU print in a technically aesthetic vinyl look. Abrasion and pilling are drastically minimized by this fashionable way of coating. Ideal for trend-setting womenswear with classic wool properties.

3^rd Place
Third place goes to fabric specialist BRUGNOLI, also based in Italy, with a highly functional 3-layer technology. New is the use of bio-based polyamide. The elastic protective membrane is waterproof, windproof and breathable and therefore predestined for outdoor fashion. The first layer is made of extra fine merino wool and bio-based polyamides. The second layer offers a high degree of comfort and functional protection as an extra thin elastic membrane. With the third layer featuring extremely thin polyamides plus elastane. The result is a soft shell quality for jackets and pants that is already used by well-known Italian fashion and function brands.

Amidst the current restructuring of our industry and in order to meet innovation cycles and grant enough time for new developments, the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START have decided to relaunch the Hightex Award as an annual award beginning September 2020 with a newly designed format.

The HighTex Award is part of an overall conceptual approach by MUNICH FABRIC START as one of the world’s largest textile fabric fairs for intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and sustainable innovation.

„We see the HighTex Award as recognition for outstanding achievements and at the same time as motivation which encourages unique innovation projects. It promotes sustainable contributions towards a clean future and more conscious use of resources thanks to the innovative use of materials. Our congratulations to the top three companies and our respect to the performance and commitment of all of the participants and their innovative product developments.”

Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START

Every industry is experiencing massive changes thanks to advancements in technology that are leading the way with new applications, services and opportunities. Revolutionising how companies manage, manufacture, market and sell, new technology is transforming customer expectations by changing how people communicate, live and shop.

Nowadays, for a company to thrive, it has to decide its level of technological integration. Easily described as a service, technology is already impacting various industries in different ways. According to KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting companies in Germany, one of those industries is fashion, particularly retail, where we are witnessing a radical shift in established brands that are not only being challenged by digital-enabled newcomers but also by customers who are smart, mobile-empowered, socially networked, and able to influence a brand’s reputation.

Ushering in a New World of Retail Fashion

Bringing business, technology and fashion to Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse this season, KPMG and IT-lighthouse Microsoft have come together to disrupt the future of fashion. It is a partnership that is presenting business and technology expertise to those within the fashion industry. KPMG wants to make a massive change in fashion by introducing disruptive technology that will transform many things like the means of communication by creating processes to collaborate and explore.

Working together with Microsoft, KPMG has found a new way to satisfy customers through their Omni Channel solution, which enables companies to gain a full 360° view of all customer touch points. They are also looking to empower employees with actionable processes that will fulfil the customer success story. Their end goal is to offer a new way that will successfully satisfy the modern customer by introducing a combination of HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and social media engagement designed to usher in a new world of retail fashion.

Besides the partnership presenting an in-depth business and technology expertise to the fashion industry, KPMG has also taken a multifaceted approach so they can offer innovative solutions regarding customer acquisition, loyalty and reward programs, integrated marketing and social media strategies while enabling transparency throughout production and supply chain delivery. This is because KPMG has found all these topics to be of importance to the modern customer and therefore, likely to affect the bottom line of a fashion business.

Together both companies presented the Omni Channel strategy at the Keyhouse, our visitors experienced how the HoloLens, with integrated digital transformation, can help fashion businesses gain increased brand visibility. KPMG also shared their know-how on how companies can get the first-to-market advantage using HoloLens.