Denim Fabric
Advancements and Innovation: Who is Busy Solving a $4.6 Billion Problem?
Advancements and Innovation:
Who is Busy Solving a $4.6 Billion Problem?
Guest article by Muchaneta Ten Napel, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd
A ubiquitous wardrobe staple, denim is one of the most prevalent fabrics of our time. Developed through the ages, those behind the widely used material are on a mission to transform the global apparel business into a cleaner, more ethical and more sustainable industry.
It is no secret that denim production is negatively impacting the environment.
Still, the good news is that more and more manufacturers, brands, retailers, and consumers are making an immense effort to undertake the issues related to the production of denim. Furthermore, driven by buzz words like ‘sustainability’ and ‘recycling’, many denim businesses are turning to new technologies to help them attain the most sustainable system possible.
When the denim industry becomes more sustainable, we need a new approach. The good news is that the technology has advanced to the point where we can make a big difference in reducing the environmental footprint of denim. Here are some great examples of some of the revolutionary approaches that have been introduced to the denim industry in the past few years.
Picture credit: Ecotextile News
Smart Factory 4.0: Denim’s Greenest Ecosystem
Crescent Bahuman is taking the denim industry on a journey. Understanding the need for the industry to digitise, Zaki Saleemi, vice president of Crescent Bahuman, believes that one of the ways of doing this is through intelligent decisions supported by data.
Saleemi explained to Sourcing Journal that the intelligent factory is designed to give on-site managers real-time information on shop floor activity and other vital sustainability-related metrics like water measurements. The upgrade is a digitization plan that can help a denim company “get organised, get connected, get insights, and get optimised”.
Another exciting development is that Crescent Bahuman is also implementing the blockchain-enabled PaperTale, which shows the entire map of the supply chain – where the cotton came from, where it was manufactured, and where it got converted into fabric.
Picture credit: Levi
Picture credit: Levi Strauss
Levi’s Earth Conscious Robotic Technology
The majority of jeans are washed for hours to achieve that perfect blue colour, and the result is that the dyes end up polluting the groundwater. Looking back to a time when new innovation was leaving its mark on the denim industry, Levi came up with laser technology that made creating ripped and washed jeans easier and more efficient.
Looking to reduce the man-hours put in by designers trying to figure out the perfect fade and the time factory workers spend sandpapering the jeans, Levi’s is also determined to lessen the harsh chemicals that give jeans that much sought after faded look.
Picture credit: The Spin Off
Probing the use of Alternative Raw Materials
Exploring alternative raw materials such as hemp or orange pulp in textile production, Lenzing and denim manufacturer Candiani partnered to push the traditional boundaries of fibre production.
With similar environmental goals, Candiani’s biodegradable stretch denim made from Tencel Limited Edition yarns to the game contains 20% hemp fibre.
Again, Lenzing’s closed-loop manufacturing process has provided an excellent alternative to many classics – a new Tencel Limited Edition hemp soft fibre is an excellent alternative to many classics.
G-Star Raw: Pioneering New Means of Production
When it comes to sustainability, G-Star RAW is not only talking the talk; they are proving their commitment by continuously challenging the conventions of denim design.
Pioneering new means of production while maintaining an uncompromising dedication to quality and style, a few years ago, G-Star came up with a step-by-step process of how the Elwood RFTPi Jean came about. It was a process that pioneered a radical new dyeing method which is hydro and salt-free. They called the process Crystal Clear.
Considered to be the most radical change at the time when it comes to indigo dyeing process, the formula, even in its infancy, showed off its potential to play a part in saving the environment.
Picture credit: Fast Company
Picture credit: Science News for Students
Helping the Denim Industry Go Green
Combining economy and ecology, Sedo Engineering’s innovation is helping the denim industry go green. The Swiss innovation specialists have developed smart-INDIGO to help denim brands quickly move towards this sustainable production structure with more benefits at lower costs. Instead of toxic chemicals, Sedo Engineering uses only electricity and caustic soda to dissolve indigo dyes.
Giving out oxygen instead of toxic wastewater, smart-INDIGO reduces water use by 70 per cent, energy consumption by six times and carbon emission by ten times. The innovation is a “win-win solution for our clients”, says Werner Volkaert, managing director of Sedo Engineering.
With 17 smart-INDIGO machines operating worldwide, Sedo Engineering hopes to bring a revolutionary change to the denim industry.
About the author
Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.
Muchaneta Ten Napel | editor@fashnerd.com
———————————————————————–
Don’t miss to explore more sustainable fabrics and trims
from international suppliers in our ReSOURCE area!
Also discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows in Munich this summer:
BLUEZONE manufacturers convince with the latest finishing solutions
These denim experts show how innovative finishes contribute to a low environmental impact
BLUEZONE #2
Although our MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE shows unfortunately could not take place physically at the end of January, we would like to give our long-standing partners and exhibitors the chance to present their latest collections to you online. That’s why we’re presenting the inspiring developments, innovations and prints in all of our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.
The most innovative technologies of the moment? Are coming from the BLUEZONE denim experts CALIK Denim, ISKUR Denim, KILIM Denim and TEJIDOS ROYO! The goal of the high-tech finishing solutions is a low environmental impact – thanks to sustainable dyeing methods, 0% water and chemicals usage and the use of renewable energy sources.
————————————————————————–
CALIK DENIM
Calik Denim presents its Spring.Summer 23 collection by prioritizing sustainability with many innovative concepts and technologies:
- Dyepro – Eco-conscious dyeing method which is water-free and leads to zero chemical waste.
- Blue-H – Fabrics which include 20% cottonized hemp.
- Denethic – Fabrics produced at the mill with rinse, rinse+enzyme and bleach wash effects.
- E-Denim – Increased recycled content with innovative yarn technology.
- Re/J – 100% recycled content with both pre- and post-consumer recycled cotton.
- E-Last – One of a kind power stretch product group as weft shrinkage values stabilised for rigid articles’ standard (0/-3,5%).
- Selfsized – One size fits most technology.
- D-Leisure – Very comfortable and loose articles ideal for daily and home office life.
- Fix-Fit – Power stretch articles with high level recovery.
- Denovated – Authentic look combined with the advantages of today’s technologies.
————————————————————————–
ISKUR DENIM
Iskur Denim is owned by the Iskur Group which produces its own cotton yarn with the best possible sustainable methods – it uses its own recycling facility and renewable energy sources for pre- and post-consumption to run all its machines to achieve its zero waste target.
Using Iskur’s knitting manufacturing expertise, Iskur Denim has developed the softest denim ever, called ‘’Soft&Breeze’’, with a vintage look that is both rigid and stretchy. To achieve this 100% stretch denim, Iskur uses the newest yarn and weaving technology. Another concept called ‘’Marble Concept‘’ reflects the denim heritage with its soft-touch comfort flexibility.
————————————————————————–
KILIM DENIM
At Kilim Denim, environmentally friendly production is made with less water, dye and chemical use. In order to create environmentally friendly denim, zero caustic consumption is ensured without sacrificing quality. In addition to these chemical savings, more than 90% water savings are also provided. By applying the Cactus Waterless dyeing process and Eco Flat finishing process, significant savings are achieved regarding pollution, water and chemicals consumption.
————————————————————————–
TEJIDOS ROYO
TEJIDOS ROYO’s motto is: MANUFACTURE BETTER WITH LESS.
Its Spring.Summer 23 collection consists of eco-designed fabrics, oriented to environmental improvement, from the conceptual stage to delivery. Low impact raw materials have been used like: TENCEL, Refibra, BCI cotton, recycled cotton and also linen. The entire denim collection is dyed with DRYINDIGO and DRYBLACK. This means: ZERO WATER, reduction of chemicals and energy. The collection conveys optimism and joy. Colourful, versatile, timeless and comfortable fabrics for everyday wear.
————————————————————————–
These BLUEZONE developments bring back memories of 90s parties! Discover the denim collections that are bursting with optimism and 90s nostalgia:
————————————————————————–
BLUEZONE's denim trends bring back memories of 90s parties
The next denim season stands for optimism and 90s nostalgia
BLUEZONE #1
Although MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE couldn’t be realised physically in the end of January, we want to give our beloved exhibitors and long-term partners the chance to present their collections for Spring.Summer 23 online. We are presenting the most inspiring developments, prints and innovations in all our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.
It’s the memories of parties in the 90s, vibrancy, lightheartedness and optimism that make these BLUEZONE collections so special: The denim experts BOSSA, Close to Clothes, Realteks, Sharabati Denim and Tonello rely on the latest washes and the most modern finish paired with retro vibes.
————————————————————————–
BOSSA
This season Bossa divided the collection in 3 concepts. The first theme is 90’s Nostalgia – the rebirth of street style cool again. The second theme is Future Healing – a new era of protection for the fast-developing new world. The third theme is Nomad Tourist – a color palette of neutrals inspired by exotic destinations with desert landscapes. All breathable fibers like hemp, flex or linen that compose the perfect suitcase of a nomadic soul.
————————————————————————–
Close to Clothes SAS
With the core values creativity and innovation in mind, Close to Clothes try to renew themselves every year with new collections. This year, the goal is to base the collection on a more environmentally friendly approach with eco-friendly products, while keeping the designs trendy.
————————————————————————–
Realteks
Realteks’ motto “Lets MINIMIZE while MAXIMIZING” includes its MINIMAL BLUE CONCEPT with increasing ENERGY AND STRETCHABILITY. It’s all about caring for the people and their lives, increasing values and flexibility: reducing the chemicals while creating new methods and saving energy while breathing more in this great blue space. Denim stands for FREEDOM – because humans are free souls and deserve MORE.
————————————————————————–
Sharabati Denim
Sharabati Denim’s Spring.Summer 23 collection brings optimism, hope and joy. Everyone wants to leave behind the days spent at home, full of uncertainty and anxiety, and look into the future with hope. Sharabati Denim therefore designed 4 new concepts to support this idea: Old is New – 70’s & 80’s look; Smooth Operator – soft, comfortable and loose fabrics; Sweat Escape – fabrics that will change your mood; Green Screen – a summary of the Sustainability Vision.
————————————————————————–
Tonello
The Laundry (R)evolution is Tonello’s concept in the finishing process. Waste avoidance and resource optimisation are the goals of the company’s refinement cycle. In the finishing process, a laser is used to replace manual abrasion, as well as an all-in-one system that carries out all washing processes by integrating four sustainable technologies. Finally, Tonello uses the Metro software, which processes data in real time to check consumption during the washing process, optimise times and improve performance.
————————————————————————–
Discover the first Spring.Summer 23 developments of ADDITIONALS, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING and FABRICS in the following blog articles:
– The newest certificated bio materials & Co. of the ADDITIONALS –
– The flowery, colourful and loud prints of the DESIGN STUDIOS –
– The natural FABRICS that determine the season: hemp, linen, nature jersey & Co. –
– The optimistic SOURCING collections using newest techniques –
————————————————————————–
Latest Denim News on bluezone.show
Get inspired by the highlights on the new interactive denim platform
We really can’t wait to welcome you again in person in Munich: BLUEZONE will take place from 31 August – 1 September 2021 as the first physical Denim trade show in 2021 at the Zenith area. Following the seasonal guiding theme BACK TO THE FUTURE, you can expect an incomparable premium portfolio of international weavers, manufacturers and denim innovators who present their latest fabric, accessory and print developments to the denim community.
Until then, the motto will continue to be: collect digital inspiration and information about the denim world, connect with other community members and thus prepare yourself optimally for your visit to the trade fair. This Is also exactly why we created the new lively digital home – for everyone interested in denim and all its facets. With the launch of the progressive Living Page, we offer a completely new experience through an interactive and dynamic approach featuring exclusive denim insights. Learn more about the launch of www.bluezone.show in this blog post.
“True to our BLUEZONE motto ‘denim beyond the seasons’, our special Living Page creates the perfect basis for the live talks and the development of innovative novelties which will be presented at our upcoming BLUEZONE show from 31 August to 1 September 2021”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director BLUEZONE
Unique Insider Information: Hot Minutes With, Who Really Is & Bluezone Speed Meeting
What is missing most at the moment? Personal contact, networking with interesting and inspiring personalities, getting to know small quirks and interesting stories!
This is exactly what our unique formats on BLUE COMMUNITY are made for: In the short HOT MINUTES WITH videos, you get to know the faces of the industry on a very personal level thanks to unusual questions. Find out Nicolas Sere‘s greatest dream and whether it has already come true, Stephanie Micci‘s extraordinary favorite song and why Alex Maillet has no plans to move away from Biarritz ever again.
In the 5-minute BLUEZONE SPEED MEETING videos, also available on BLUE COMMUNITY, you have the chance to get to know the innovation drivers in the denim industry. The minds behind global brands, such as Thibault Greuzat or Paolo Gnutti, provide insights into their company DNA and show 5 of their trend-setting developments in detail. See how clever the KT Trims team is in introducing their denim additionals.
WHO REALLY IS… you have probably asked yourself several times when you have heard the name of denim heads like Luca Braschi or Barbara Gnutti. And who is Theresa Walter, the woman who brings our BLUEZONE to life season after season? You can find the answers in exciting interviews on BLUE COMMUNITY.
BLUEZONE wouldn't be BLUEZONE without its Denim Trends!
Anyone who has ever had the opportunity to browse through the BLUEZONE Denim Trend Forum knows that BLUEZONE is much more than a “simple” trade fair for denim fabrics. The trends that inspire buyers, designers and product managers of global fashion brands for their next collections are shown here!
Don’t miss out on this early insight into the upcoming trends from 31 August – 1 September 2021 at BLUEZONE. Before that, you can get an overview of the current visions on BLUE TRENDS. For example, find out from our denim curator Tilmann Wröbel how the current Trend Forecast came about, immerse yourself in the detailed descriptions of the 5 denim topics and let the visionaries inspire you creatively.
#bluezone #internationaldenimtradeshow #denimindustry #sustainablefabrics #deniminnovations #denimmaterial #tradeshow #backtothefuture
ABOUT BLUEZONE – THE INTERNATIONAL DENIM TRADE FAIR
Founded in 2003 as the first of its kind denim dedicated show, BLUEZONE has established itself as one of the most substantial business platforms for the global denim, street and sportswear market. Leading denim pioneers showcase their most recent denim novelties to the international denim and fashion community. With a strong commitment to excellence and a highly innovative approach, BLUEZONE is a key event to present quality materials, share know-how and discover innovations and the latest trends in a unique blue-blooded environment for denim beyond the seasons. Simultaneously and right next to BLUEZONE, the International Fabric Trade Fair MUNICH FABRIC START showcases novelties in fabrics, accessories and prints twice a year so that visitors can source from a varied textile portfolio offered by some 1000 international suppliers. In between the shows, everyone interested in the denim industry is invited to discover news and denim stories on www.bluezone.show. The next BLUEZONE show takes place in Munich from 31 August – 1 September 2021.
Denim, Sportswear & Innovations Exhibitors at FABRIC DAYS
FABRIC DAYS will take place from 1 – 3 September 2020 at MOC Munich. In the four fully booked halls on the ground floor of the MOC, around 300 German and European exhibitors in 5 segments will present their new developments for Autumn.Winter 21/22 in around 700 collections. Among the international exhibitors who have confirmed their FABRIC DAYS participation are also many premium suppliers who will present their novelties in the Denim, Sportswear and Innovations areas.
Register today for FABRIC DAYS – your chance to meet your suppliers in person again and gather trend information and inspiration in addition to the latest developments. Discover some of the participating Denim, Sportswear & Innovations exhibitors here:
DENIM & SPORTSWEAR
Bossa strives to promote responsible change in the industry. With the D-CHRONICLES concept, a collaboration between Bossa and Fibretrace, Bossa views the future of sustainability as: transparency, trust and traceability. The concept uses the blockchain based ID system by Fibretrace technology, which follows a product from farm to shelf and chronicles its history securely with blockchain. Bossa, which has transparently detailed its production figures for the last three years with “Towards Zero Waste” booklet, will continue to report its production values annually. The Turkish textile company has increased the use of recycled fibers in the raw material blend required for denim fabric and is starting to use all of its textile waste in its blends by restructuring or cleaning them which are next steps “Towards Zero Waste”.
The Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection at Bossa is divided into 5 groups: The first concept, “Heritage”, is inspired by denim origins in combination with technology innovation. The super soft and performance denims of the second concept “Workout” bridge the gap between regular denim and active wear. The “Luxury shades” concept includes premium denims with natural elegance through new fibers, clean surfaces, draping and silhouettes. Timeless jeans in dark tones are presented in the forth concept “Dark Side”. Bossa created different denim combinations with warm colours for cold days in the fifth concept “Fall in Love”.
The Kilim Denim Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection focuses on combining new shades and trendy finishes with functional and innovative solutions. Developing new collections involves research and challenging the boundaries of design and technology. With every season, Kilim Denim operates under high environmental and social standards. The Turkish weaving factory highlights the “Vintage Core” and “Shape Core” collections that present high elasticity with trendy looks. The “1986” and “Ageless” collections reflect the vintage and positive sense of the 80s and 90s era. The “Recreate” collection is produced from recycled yarns due to Kilim Denim’s confidence in a circular economy and acute responsibility to use resources respectfully. The newly developed Cactus process, which is certified by Intertek, also minimizes water usage.
From the makers of DRY INDIGO® comes… DRY BLACK®, the Sustainable Denim Revolution now available in black! After the development and launch of Dry Indigo® – a unique foam dyeing technology that allows to dye Indigo Yarn with zero water – Tejidos Royo decided to go one step further. After more than a year of R&D, Tejidos Royo has managed to adapt the revolutionary foam dyeing technology to Black Denim. Tejidos Royo is now able to dye denim in sulphur black with no water usage in the dyeing process, and more importantly, no need to clean the water after dyeing. The Spanish fabric manufacturer is able to control the sulfur, the intensity and the fixation of the colour. DRY BLACK® is certified by the Textile Research Institute AITEX as an eco and sustainable Black Yarn Dyeing process. The achievement of this technology: 99% less water usage in dyeing, 52% less chemical usage, 72% reduced energy usage, 0% water discharge. Tejidos Royo always bets on innovation and 360º sustainability. “Our goal is to give the market the best product without permanent harmful effects for the environment. We develop trendy, innovative and sustainable fabrics. We create fabrics with values and this pioneering and ecological technology DRY DYE is the way to revolutionize the global production of denim.” DRY BLACK® – BLACK TO THE FUTURE.
INNOVATIONS
RenTec.one specialise in the renaturation of leather scraps from the tanning industry. The processes eliminate up to 95% of the received leather waste and transform the raw materials into various re-useable forms: yarns, woven fabrics or textiles for direct cutting. Due to the chemical and physiological properties of collagen in leather and the separation of remaining fat content, the RenTec.one leather yarns contain a natural sanitizing property, which notably helps to cure neuritis, neurodermitis, foot cracks and stench.
House of U, a digital textile printing company based in the Netherlands, has been working to tackle their chemical, water, and energy consumption in addition to offering a wide range of sustainable materials to print on. The print house introduces low impact printing with the aim to achieve bold colours while phasing out harmful chemicals – and thus helps clients achieve rich and deep colours by using certified inks on a wide range of sustainable fabrics. With an online platform and digital colour management, House of U offers designers creative freedom to product their high-quality prints. Customers can upload their designs online, pick the fabric of their choice and order without any minimum order quantity. The company’s processes and methods consist of pre-treatment, printing, and the finishing of the materials. House of U’s digital printing method reduces water consumption by 70% in comparison to screen printing. All inks used in the printing process of natural fibres are GOTS certified, water-based inks. This applies to all chemicals used in the pre-treatment of the fabrics (coating) and in the post treatment (after printing).
For more than 15 years smartfiber AG offers high quality, skin-friendly natural fibers for sustainable textiles with the name SeaCell™ and smartcel™ sensitive. Thanks to the natural additives algae or zinc the fibers of smartfiber AG are the basis of numerous fashion and home textiles for international brands which consider sustainability as a matter of course. The fibers are based on cellulose. Due to the additives from algae in SeaCell™ or zinc in smartcel™ sensitive the fibers gain extraordinary properties. Thus, the fibers are particularly skin-friendly and stand for environmental friendliness and saving resources.
FABRIC DAYS AUTUMN.WINTER 21/22
OPENING HOURS
1 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
2 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
3 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 4.00 PM
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Ground Floor
Lilienthalallee 40
D – 80939 Munich
Ecosim – BLUEZONE Presents Denim Beyond the Seasons
ECOISM
Reject egoism, create ecoism, rewrite your future.
Our world needs to spare a thought… consumption, mass production, benefits and our ecosystems. ECOISM thrives on our need for a better world, for true sustainable solutions and the rethinking/overhaul of our industrial blue planet.
In a denim world moving at social media speed, denim trends are key to benefit end consumers and the industry with a clear direction. The BLUEZONE trend direction is split into two main categories to reflect our present and our future: themes which directly address fabric and product development, such as NO STRETCH or BLUE WELLNESS. And themes which tackle the important trending styles in our world, such as POWER DRESSING and ANTI BEAUTY.
SHARING becomes more than a simple theme, it is the space where business becomes altruistic, where growth rhymes with sharing profit: A different way of conceiving denim in our modern world. “Sustainability is not a trend, but every trend should be sustainable.”
The following trend directions develop under the main topic ECOISM:
SHARING
Altruistic manufacturing, altruistic products, brand initiatives. Think: Products made in collaboration with people in need, small associations, handicapped. Products in which the benefits go to those in need.
NO STRETCH
Novelties without stretch…male & female, gender neutral. Think: Wider fits are their way to becoming mainstream and need a new generation of more rigid, more compact fabrics. Trend looks are more relevant with crisp somewhat rigid denim. Surfaces might be soft but compact weaving is key.
CLASHING CONTRASTS
A revolution in taste is key. Printed denim, coloured denim, and striped denim. Think: Jacquards, fancy weaves in unusual patchworks, layers, colour blockings. Strange visual matches, creating the antidote to harmony.
POWER DRESSING
Power dressing for a tough future. When politics go wrong, power dressing strikes back. Think: Business denim with a stylish twist. Power dressing also for men.
BLUE WELLNESS
The need for a soothing denim product. Denim that takes care of your skin, brain & body. Think: Fibers, coatings, ingredients, softness, anything that makes you and your body feel better.
SARTORIAL PUNK
No future. Sartorial denim against Friday wear. A punk attitude with elegant codes. Think: Bleached and spotted denim. Black, grey, white denim, stretch and rigid fabrications.
ACID PASTELS
The key is subtly in the effects. Acid fade-outs. Gritty yet pastel tenderness. Flowers, flowers, flowers … &animals, prints and solids. Think Acid effects on denim are key and tend to stay for some time. What is the next generation of acid and pastel effects on denim …
ANTI BEAUTY
Strange is the new beauty. Strange denim, strange products. New aesthetics, new proportions, sartorial, oversized, asymmetrical. Think: Flat-finished denim, reactive dye denim, Indigo denim.
