MUNIQUE Magazine
Meet Saitex - the vertical Vietnamese Denim Entity
Meet Saitex:
Welcoming the Vietnamese vertical Denim Entity to BLUEZONE 2023
Global jeans manufacturer Saitex is going vertical as it officially announces the opening of its first denim fabric making mill in Vietnam. The new 100,000 square meter facility is located 40 minutes from its cut & sew factory near Ho Chi Minh City where 18,000 pairs of jeans are made on average per day.
The new mill covers all operations from yarn spinning to weaving and to fabric dyeing and finishing. Saitex has announced it will produce 2 million meters of fabric per month, or 24 million yearly, and some 750 tonnes of yarn per month. These new operations have created 630 new jobs and the company says it will employ 1,000 at full capacity. As it has already done at its cut & sew factory, 20% of the jobs will be filled by people with disabilities.
Like Saitex’s “Factory of the Future” in Los Angeles, CA, the new facility incorporates the latest and lowest impact technologies. The mill is equipped to produce yarns in pure cotton or in blends in dual-core, multiple-core and SiroSPUN technologies.
For indigo dyeing, Saitex has installed the Smart Indigo system that pre-reduces indigo via an electrochemical process. This, the company says, leads to lower CO2 emissions by 90%, requires 70% less energy and 30% less water, with oxygen as the only product released. Karl Mayer rope dyeing machines lead to further environmental savings, thanks to fewer dye bathes, and a 30% reduction in indigo and chemical usage.
Other eco-responsible features at the new site include LEED Gold Certified materials for the building, 15,000 solar panels, greywater recycling and rainwater collection systems. A vegetable garden covers 40% of the total site to feed workers and local communities. Saitex says it has also planted 6,000 trees in the industrial park, and has offset its carbon emissions by planting 50 hectares of mangroves in Vietnam, as part of its plan to contribute to climate neutrality by 2025.
“It has been our long-term vision to close the loop on our operations. With the opening of the mill and the upcoming launch of our textile upcycling facility, Stelapop, our vision will be complete. We will close the circle, allowing us to provide unprecedented transparency in denim production and the ability to turn apparel and textile waste into high-quality goods. Our target is to become the most sustainable fabric mill on the planet making fully circular production possible for our customers.”
Sanjeev Bahl, CEO und Gründer von Saitex
This might be also interessting for you:
The latest accessory developments for Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
Nature meets artificial materials. Upcycling or the use of fabric remnants, offcuts, ingredients from previous collections are another big theme.
Smart Knitting – Sustainable Innovations
When the programmers of KNITWEAR LAB teamed up with 3D software specialists, a completely new idea for more sustainable, cost-efficient and design-oriented pattern development and knitwear production emerged.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
Stripes and checks are often seen in Autumn/Winter 2024-2025, tone on tone or through vibrant, ethnic colours. Checks bring movement to these colours and are in high demand as light and elegant checks.
The clothing of the future – Sustainable Innovations
Bye bye, plastic! The long-term goal is to be able to replace virgin polyester as a raw material.
MUNICH FABRIC START – closing report
The most important fabric trends for Autumn.Winter 2024/25, lectures and discussions on the most relevant industry topics as well as plenty of networking opportunities:
THE COMEBAG PROJECT
A team of young fashion designers has realised a great upcycling project over the last few weeks: they have sewn unique bags from former trade fair materials such as flags, various trade fair banners and carpet left overs from the MFS.
Bluezone Highlights
The 5 DENIM SENSES are brought to live thanks to the generous support from Naveena Denim Mills who provided the denim fabrics for this project.
Trend Preview for AUTUMN.WINTER 24/25
Trendbook and Colour Code offer the ideal inspiration and information basis for the development of your Autumn.Winter 24/25 collection...
THE SOURCE 2023 – Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part II
Bold geometric jacquards, mini checks and 3D textures are telling a story about clean-cut contrasts in Union 3 Fashion’s Fall-Winter Collection.
Visbatex – Performance by nature
Das Münchner Unternehmen entwickelt in seinem eigenen Nature Tech Lab High- Performance-Stoffe auf Basis von Bambusviskose (Anteil von mindestens 50 %).
DARE & CARE
DARE & CARE
An interview with the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START about courage, the special, the challenges of the present and the trade show calendar in 2023.
1. What can exhibitors and visitors expect at MUNICH FABRIC START in January 2023?
Sebastian Klinder: As an international fabric trade show and Germany’s leading platform for future-relevant textile innovations in the fashion sector, we are once again creating high-quality formats and offerings at MUNICH FABRIC START this season – from a broad and relevant exhibitor portfolio, to top-class lectures and panels, to trend outlooks and numerous opportunities to connect.
We are very pleased that around 900 selected international producers will once again be joining us in Munich in January to show their latest trends and innovations on a total exhibition area of around 42,500 square metres – thus demonstrating that, even in times of uncertainty, we have the courage to think big.
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START; left
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START; right
“We are continuing the positive, motivated and ambitious mood that is evident at the current shows.«
Frank Junker: Nothing ventured, nothing gained – especially now. The conditions are currently changing and this requires openness to new things and the courage to move forward. Not exuberantly, but with care and deliberation. This is also reflected in our motto this year, “DARE & CARE”. Changes are taking place on all levels: from a new sense of community to the struggle for freedom with protests to hedonism and the celebration of the moment; not least the need for islands of tranquility, for joy and above all for real, human encounters. In these topics and controversies, apart from all the uncertainty, lies an immense potential for inspiration and the power to dare something.
In a volatile market environment, looking ahead optimistically is easier said than done for many. As a trade show organiser, how do you look to the future?
Sebastian Klinder: We are well positioned for the current Spring.Summer 24 edition from 24 to 26 January 2023 and can be very satisfied – in a generally tense situation, MUNICH FABRIC START, BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE are all very well booked. This makes us quite positive for the future. Demonstrating reliability, relevance and consistency is what matters now.
Frank Junker: Our task is to always be surprising, innovative and at the same time market- and solution-oriented. Once again, we have succeeded in this. Despite all the difficulties, we offer the usual high level of service, create new experiences and form a business and trend and information platform for the strong and relevant partners in the industry. That is what makes us so special. Being special pays off.
3. There is a central change from 2023 – the summer editions of MUNICH FABRIC START, BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE and THE SOURCE will take place in the second half of July from now on. What do you expect from this?
Frank Junker: With the new date, we are positioning MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE early in the trade show calendar – so they fit perfectly into the international events and rhythms. We are ontinuing the positive, motivated and ambitious mood that is evident at the current MUNICH FABRIC START with inspiring new products, innovative content and future-oriented themes, placing them in an even more valuable time slot.
Sebastian Klinder: With the new trade show dates for MUNICH FABRIC START and VIEW, we are giving our exhibitors a wide variety of opportunities to respond to the new needs and changes in the market. We are absolutely convinced that this is an important and right step. With our new schedule, we continue to offer the already proven time slots for ordering and move forward confidently and with the courage to change.
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
VIEW Premium Selection: leading the way
VIEW Premium Selection: leading the way
The VIEW Premium Selection in Munich has successfully opened the Spring.Summer season 2024. In a tense market environment, the exhibiting weavers, producers and accessories manufacturers and their around 300 pre-collections positioned themselves with strong trend statements and solutionoriented new developments. Providing confidence and trend-setting answers in uncertain times was the overriding theme.
Numerous buyers, designers and product managers from European ready-to-wear manufacturers came to VIEW to find out about the latest trends at the earliest possible opportunity, including:
ADIDAS | ALBERTO | AKRIS | BALDESSARINI | BALENCIAGA | BOGNER | C&A | CALVIN KLEIN | CINQUE | DRYKORN | ESCADA | HALLHUBER | HOLY FASHION GROUP | HUGO BOSS | JOOP | LALA BERLIN | LAGERFELD | LAURÈL | MAC | MARC CAIN | MARC | O’POLO | RENÉ LEZARD | RIANI | SCHUMACHER | SPORTALM | STRELLSON
From robust natural materials in contrast to shimmer, glitter, stretch and mesh in a colour spectrum ranging from light natural tones and off-white to pastel, bright power colours and warm, reddish purple and brown tones to black: yesterday, Wednesday, the VIEW Premium Selection came to an end after two days at the MVG Museum in Munich. There, international producers kicked off the new season with their approximately 300 pre-collections and presented their new material developments and colours for Spring.Summer 2024 at the Preview Textile Show organised by Munich Fabric Start GmbH.
The focus was on materials that evoke emotions on both a visual and tactile level. For styles that range from super sexy, sheer and tight, to classical suit looks and extremely wide cuts, to workwear elements. “Whether it’s fashion, design or gender, this season is about finding more optimism and harmony. In menswear, gender identity and sensuality meet boundless imagination and become an integral part; in womenswear, we confidently and uninhibitedly emphasise all facets of femininity. From glamour to easy going – it’s all about expressing our personality and uniqueness. The trend is towards a casual attitude; sexiness becomes practical and is found either in workwear or in functional styles. The colour palette ranges from muted whites and greys to eye-catching, summery reds and rich pinks or bright yellows,” confirms Karin Schmitz, Business Development Director of the Trendforecast Institute Peclers Paris at VIEW in Munich.
A time of upheaval
The fact that the market is in a state of upheaval and companies are facing major challenges and changes were topics in many conversations. “There is great uncertainty in the market. The, let’s call it ‘political game’, is not making it easy for European producers. Energy costs have increased nine to tenfold here in Slovenia. Politicians must finally find an overarching European solution to support companies,” says Tomaz Bavec, Area Sales Manager, Tekstina. Ralf Laufenberg, Sales Manager of Yünsa, also notices that decisions are being made more in favour of price: “For almost every article we offer, we have had a sustainable alternative for about three years. However, in order to be able to maintain corner price ranges, many are opting for the cheaper offer at the moment. Nevertheless, I am convinced that sustainability will become the standard.”
„To differentiate oneself, to create optimism with new developments and, above all, to move forward with
new concepts – these were the answers for many.
This is also true for us as a trade show organiser. With our
new reVIEW and preVIEW concept, we are positioning ourselves anew and close to the market.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director der Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH
„The tension among the exhibiting companies was palpable – high energy costs are leading to price discussions and market shifts.
Against this backdrop, it was all the more surprising how good the mood at the VIEW was in the end.
The companies are succeeding in finding intelligent answers, that meet the challenges of the market.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH
New haptics, optics and innovative further developments
The exhibiting producers’ pre-collections clearly showed their intentions to create something fresh and surprising and to convince with new qualities and fabric developments. Water colours, tie-dye and blurred floral prints contrast with geometric prints with stripes, cubes and triangles. The more interesting and new the surfaces, the better: from grippy, structured, coated materials in contrast to delicate, transparent, net-like fabrics or smooth, shiny, ultra-light surfaces.
“It’s still too early in the season to say what topics the market is going for spring/summer 2024. We are very much focusing on geometric dessins as square tile prints or ethnic graphics interpreted in completely different ways. Watercolours, batik and big blurred floral prints are another important topic. Green, orange, purple and brown tones with neon colours as a highlight are already well discussed,” says Mariangela Magri, Sales Manager, New Concept (TTG Textilagentur Thomas Geiger).
Linen is also surprisingly in demand from the German market – in a mix with cotton, polyester or wool or as a monofibre. Stable or flowing soft – the typical linen look remains – but is also broken up by surprising effects. “In addition to compact cotton items, we are focusing strongly on linen for the summer – mixed with cotton or other natural fibres. With this, for example, we are implementing new indigo-dyed jacquards in a denim look with a super-soft feel. With shiny finishes on cotton jacquards, we achieve shiny effects in a leather look,” says Alessandra Schiera, Sales Manager, Destro (Agentur Sauer Textil).
In contrast to this many of the collections present delicacy and transparency, innovatively interpreted. “We combine ancient techniques with new innovative technologies: silk crepe with pigment prints, tie-dyes with modern dyeing technology. Laser cuts and holes for transparency and sexiness, ultra-light ripstops interwoven with solid thick yarns, coated plisses, metallic and fotosensoric fabrics,” says Matteo Ramundo, Sales Manager, Serates (Agentur Fuhrmann).
New developments also focus on bio-based, recycled, biodegradable materials or even first circular concepts. They are becoming more and more an integral part of the collections. Accessories are, as always, the pioneers here with leather alternatives based on cactus, mycelium, pineapple, apple or olive seeds. Organic cotton and organic linen or Tencel are an integral part of the Spring.Summer 2024 collections. Recycled polyester is more in demand than ever, confirms General Manager Andrea Ambrosini of Limonta, among others: “Recycled fabrics are more popular than ever, a development from which Limonta benefits. The first appointments with customers confirmed a high demand for nylons made of recycled polyester mixed with cotton and other fibres to create new and surprising looks and touches. Especially cotton feel, shiny, paper or rubberised effects are very important.”
Next: MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE end of January
From 24 – 26 January 2023, the textile and fashion industry will come together at MOC Munich and at BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE from 24 – 25 January 2023 at the Zenith Areal. Almost 800 currently confirmed exhibitors will show their colour and material trends over two or three days, embedded in showcases, experiences and a fringe programme of exclusive information about the upcoming trends, top-notch panels and the opportunity to network. A new concept is THE SOURCE STUDIO at MOC. The popularity of the events in January is great and reveals that Munich will once again become the global hub for the most important segments of the industry at the end of January.
More voices from exhibitors
Bell & Thunder
„We can’t do everything – but what we do, we do right, especially special knits and wovens made of synthetic or mixed fibres. As far as one can tell at this stage, it is mainly unusual, elaborate and sophisticated jacquards made from a wide variety of materials that will make a comeback in this sector.”
Myunsoo Seo, President, Bell & Thunder, Seoul
Cervotessile
„Linings for spring/summer 2024 are one thing above all: fancy – with bright, fluorescent colours, microstructures and prints; not only made from viscose, but from new material compositions such as recycled polyester with organic cotton.“
Luca Ronzi, Sales Manager, Cervotessile (Klaas & Hesse Textilagentur)
Gratacós
„We achieve structure and volume through embossing. The focus is on geometric designs that are somehow different: triangles, cubes, tie-dyes, stripes with 3D effect. The leaf is the new flower. In the area of floral patterns, we show unevenly placed floral embroideries on transparent, delicate net-like fabrics. Shine comes into play via sequins, in stripes on stripes or with a geographical floral pattern on fine linen organza.“
Alexandra Bosch, Area Manager, Gratacós (Agentur Fuhrmann)
Manteco
„We have redesigned organic cotton for the summer: in a blend with linen, soft and especially structured. Totally modern, new concepts are emerging. These fabrics are no longer compact and less stretch. In terms of colour, rust and terracotta tones in combination with strong blues and neon accents are particularly important. We live in a world where everyone offers everything. That makes it all the more important to make a difference. The key for us as a wool fibre and yarn manufacturer is sustainability.“
Emiliano Bertoli, Sales Manager, Manteco
Stylem
„People are looking for more sustainable alternatives. Together with the Japanese manufacturers we represent, we can help satisfy this desire by adapting the composition of fabrics made from recycled or organically grown natural fibres. The result of this: a whole new feeling in finishing and hand feel.”
Toshihiko Kanatani, Senior Sales Representative, Stylem, Osaka
Teijin
„The trend towards casual, comfortable and sporty fashion is unstoppable and has now also established itself in HAKA. With the new yarns “SOLOTEX® and DELTA® developed by Teijin, we are able to offer a wide range of different sporty, light, packable and technical polyester articles with a bit of function. A trend that is pervasive: All well-known brands want to use only predominantly environmentally friendly materials. This trend and the desire for green stories also influences the development of new fabrics: fine nylons that feel like cotton or fabrics with a BASF fibre obtained from discarded car tyres. The more sporty a collection is, the more it is about a mix of technological and aesthetic innovation – weight is a big topic as well, as are rip-stops and transparency.“
Roland Oberstein, Vice President, Teijin Frontier Europe GmbH, Hamburg
Vivolo
„We have had cactus-based labels in our collection for two years now. Our new labels made of mushroom leather can be seen for the first time at VIEW. We have the exclusive patent for Mylo – Mycelium is THE rising material among leather alternatives. We have also launched brand new labels made of bamboo with biopolyuretan. Bamboo and Mycelium labels with water-soluble inks dried with UV light – that’s how we understand sustainability.“
Nicoló Gatti, Sales Executive, Vivolo (Klaas & Hesse Textilagentur)
We Nordic
„All our accessories are certified. Silicone labels made from olive stone powder are our novelty. Whether cactus, pineapple, organic cotton with potato flour or now olive stones – in order to develop solutions that are sustainable and commercially successful at the same time, you have to try out many things and constantly develop them further. At the moment, interest is particularly high in sustainable packaging solutions for the ecommerce to get rid of plastic. Paptic from Finland is a new water-repellent solution made of wood fibres – biobased, recyclable, reusable and biodegradable. We have had great success with this.“
Charlotte Bøgeren, CEO, We Nordic
DISCOVER MORE INDUSTRY-CHANGING INNOVATIONS AT OUR UPCOMING TRADE SHOWS:
VIEW Premium Selection presents some 300 Pre-Collections
VIEW Premium Selection presents some
300 Pre-Collections
The earliest material and trend information for Spring.Summer 2024 will be provided by the VIEW Premium Selection on 29 and 30 November 2022 at the MVG Museum in Munich. Around 300 pre-collections from international producers will provide information about the new material developments and colours for summer – including numerous newcomers and returnees.
First insights, first new materials and trend highlights: On 29 and 30 November 2022, the European premium fabric sector will meet for an important exchange with international producers at VIEW in Munich to find out about the first colour and material trends for Spring/Summer 2024 at the earliest possible time. A selected range of around 300 pre-collections will be on show at the MVG Museum. This means that VIEW will once again be strong and business-relevant this season.
The past VIEW Premium Selection in June 2022 was a great success. Completely booked out and more international than ever, the Preview Textile Show of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH was an important contact point for the buying and design teams of companies such as Akris, Baldessarini, Bogner, Calvin Klein, Cinque, Comma, Drykorn, Escada, Hugo Boss, Lala Berlin, Lagerfeld, Laurél, MAC, Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, Riani, Schumacher or Strellson. The trend towards an increasingly international range continues in November. Numerous buyers, designers and product managers from European ready-to-wear manufacturers are expected in Munich next week, looking for new material innovations and trends at VIEW and the parallel ISPO.
“The earliest possible colour and material information, the latest developments and trends for an accurate statement of the main collections, NOS planning, intermediate collections, repeat orders or final order possibilities – for the premium segment as well as for sports and denim collections, the middle market or the entry price segment – with the VIEW we offer the greatest possible flexibility with regard to Spring.Summer 2024 and the optimum presentation possibility for every target group.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
International Exhibitor Portfolio with many new names
Material influences from Europe to Asia bring a highly exciting mix for the trend research of the new collections. Exhibitors from Bulgaria, China, Denmark, Germany, France, Great Britain, Greece, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Korea, Spain and Turkey are among the participants.
The newcomers and returnees include, in addition to other:
AGNSTR / ALA CAMPOLMI / BAIRD MC NUTT / BELL & THUNDER / CB STILE / COLORA / EKOTEN / FABRIC LAB / GUARISCO / JECA LIMITED / KING BUTTON / LANIFICIO CAVERNI / LIMONATA EAST / M.T.T. MANIFATTURA / MANTERO / MILIOR / MTP PIEROZZI / PADROCASAS / PIZVAL / RIBBONTEX / SITIP / TEKSTINA SINCE 1828 / TEXMODA / VIVOLO and WAY.
„Whether from Germany, France, Italy, Turkey, Japan or Hong Kong – high-quality weavers and accessories manufacturers from all over the world will be announcing themselves at the upcoming VIEW Premium Selection. We are particularly pleased about numerous newcomers and collections who are returning to VIEW this season after a long time and who appreciate both the date and the unique ambience.“
Frank Junker, Creative Director der Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions Gmb
MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE follow at the end of January with final collections and a surprisingly large response
The textile and fashion industry is also cordially invited to the next MUNICH FABRIC START Spring.Summer 24 from 24 – 26 January 2023 at MOC Munich as well as to BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE from 24 – 25 January 2023 at the Zenith Areal. On two and three days respectively, a selected portfolio, valuable trend information, physical exchange and THE SOURCE Studios concept await the global players of the industry. A high level of interest is already apparent on the part of producers, who have already confirmed their participation in January. This means that Munich will once again offer a broad international range of products for the most important segments.
Details VIEW Premium Selection
Opening Hours
Tuesday, 29/11/2022: 9.30am – 6.30pm
Wednesday, 30/11/2022:
9.30am – 5.00pm
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
Texfash - Interview
The Biggest Disruption is the Switch from the Seasonal to a Timeless Conception
An Interview of texfash.com with Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH
The turnout and excitement at this year’s Munich Fabric Start matched pre-pandemic levels. What were the changes that you noticed in terms of buying practices? What were buyers looking for? Were they more circumspect? Were people taking more measured decisions?
Sustainability has become even more important than before. Many exhibitors have told us that the first questions buyers ask them are: Are your business practices are sustainable? Are your plants certified? Are your products recyclable? Those are no longer questions of marketing; they are questions of the market. Moreover, the conflict situation of skyrocketing energy prices, the current geopolitical unpredictability plus ever imminent shortages of some raw materials are necessitating fast and even further transformations towards more efficient technologies and processes. Everyone at every single position of the supply chain knows that they can no longer afford to waste resources. So yes, people are taking more measured, circumspect decisions.
Another main topic is the discussion about prices. Especially, Germany is a very price sensitive market. There are fixed retail prices brands do not want to change. Now that raw material and energy costs are rising, buyers and product managers are searching for solutions. This is quite challenging if they at the same time want to maintain their high quality and create collections with exciting, fresh and new looks, colours and materials.
This is also the first time Munich Fabric Start was held since the announcement of the EU Textiles Strategy. Were its overall and long-term implications already reflected this year at MFS? How are companies gearing up?
Many mills and manufacturers are in the midst of or have already shifted to processes that are in accordance with the EU Textiles Strategy. Many denim manufacturers, for example, have adopted dyeing and finishing technologies that work with no or little to no water and entirely without chemicals. Whether it be Muze’s drop dye, Sharabati’s recycling system, Wiser’s oxygen-based, pumice free bleaching process—many have already taken steps to fulfilling the EU’s requirements. In terms of recycling and recyclability, we see that lot of new ideas come up to join forces to use consumer waste as new raw materials to create fashion in circularity. Many countries are looking for solutions. There is a lot to come.
The other thing that has happened, and is still happening, is the Ukraine war. Has it had any impact on Munich Fabric Start in terms of visitors? What was Russian participation like in the earlier years?
To be honest: in this specific case, the first thing we as trade show organisers care about is the people, not our performance indicators or visitor numbers. For sure, this war has an impact on all of us on a way deeper level. During the last couple of days, I had several talks to long-time friends who are affected on a personal level by having relatives in regions that have turned into a war zone, or knowing business partners who had to flee, or just personal memories of travels to places that have now become battle fields. Hearing those stories is heart breaking and it frightens me. On a personal level as well as a professional. Our industry is an exceptionally international one—conflicts are never good for globalisation; armed conflicts and wars even less so.
The Bluezone is a big canvas in itself. It’s a good place to pick up denim trends. How has denim changed since the pandemic?
On an aesthetic trend level, the biggest shift that we see is the concurrency of different trends. Denim is an absolutely ageless phenomenon. And while young generations might be willing to lever heavy qualities from the heritage scene to a wider market, those brands focussing on mid-agers probably tend to source more stretchy ones. The same applies for finishing options. Having said that, we see multiple parallel trends going on in denim. Nevertheless, our own trend forecasters once again identified a meta trend that was able to encompass multiple actual social characteristics and merge them with contemporary ones that move the fashion and design scene—which is why Bluezone’s seasonal theme is ‘Campus’. Under that term we’ve been able to condense a lot of the things that are going on in the denim world right now. And to stimulate education within a community that has a growing mindset and is able and willing to learn and change.
As I have already made apparent earlier, the biggest shift for our whole sector—including the denim universe—is the huge increase in consciousness. Everyone has realised what raw materials are really worth. There is more education around those contexts and a growing interest in details such as social issues or efficiency. We are aware of this demand, which is why we had an extensive series of seminars, lectures and talks at MFS this year, most of which have been centred around circularity, recycling, new materials, traceability and innovations. And we take this matter seriously—we’ve even reached out to enable a ‘coopetitive’ (cooperative competition) cooperation with the Transformer Foundation, resulting in a specialised on stage programme of trans-sectoral discussions and round table talks.
What was the need for The Source, so much so that it needed to be a sub-event and not part of the main Munich Fabric Start?
We actively decided to make it a show-in-show because we wanted to raise awareness for the potential synergies that the simultaneity of a trade show focusing on sourcing and one for fabrics make possible. Think about visiting designers or product managers, and being able to hold meetings with their brand’s fabric producers or even pattern studios and the CMT companies. Our vision is the one of a kind one-stop sourcing ecosystem.
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
The atmospherica industrial charm of keyhouse
THE ATMOSPHERIC INDUSTRIAL CHARM OF KEYHOUSE
In the atmospheric industrial charm of KEYHOUSE, Hall 5, progressive suppliers and global players from cross-industry sectors will be showing their latest new developments and innovations. On more than 1,000 square metres you will find trend-setting smart textiles, future fabrics and new technologies – be it in terms of sustainability, digitalisation, traceability, technology or finishing.
Staged as an interactive think tank, future-oriented show cases will be in the spotlight alongside Sustainable Innovations. This is also where the main lecture forum of MUNICH FABRIC START is located featuring exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions and expert talks by international industry insiders. Be inspired by the wide range of products on offer at KEYHOUSE.
PIÑATEX
Piñatex® by Ananas Anam is a pioneering plant-based textile now made from up to 95% renewable resources. Piñatex is made from agricultural waste, offering a resource efficient alternative to synthetic and virgin grown textiles. Piñatex is available in 22 colours across 4 different collections, with the ability to create custom finishes for orders requiring a bespoke approach
REACTIVE REALITY
Reactive Reality’s PICTOFiT platform creates value for you, your customers and the planet. Their AI can help in all phases of the product lifecycle from design to visual merchandising to shopper experience, purchase and in the Metaverse. To date we have seen increases in shopper engagement of 400%, increases in conversion rate of 55%, and an overall ROI of 500%
CLO Virtual Fashion
CLO Virtual Fashion is a multinational technology company founded in 2009. With a vision to empower everything related to garments, CLO Virtual Fashion is leading the market by digitally merging, consolidating, and converging all components relating to digital and physical garments through its state-of-the-art 3D Cloth Simulation Algorithm. From 3D garment design software, digital asset management and design development collaborative platform, to consumer-facing services such as virtual fitting on e-commerce, all of CLO Virtual Fashion’s products and services are interconnected to provide clients and users with a more consolidated experience.
MAKEINITALY
MAKEINITALY is a group of technicians in love with a project dedicated to “The Health of the garment we are wearing”. Their innovation is to respect the nature with the re-discovery of traditional Italian textile knowledge. They produce nettle and hemp yarn to create biodegradable fabrics. Dyeing of the fabrics is made with their patent by using vegetable products that reach high and permanent colour fastness.
MONTEGA
Montega Chemical Solutions, specialized in production of chemicals for textile treatments, will present THE PERFECT JEANS for a more conscious use of chemicals through application systems with low environmental impact and certified products. This in order to provide guidelines for a more sustainable and truly environmentally friendly production, to be an active part of the change that our planet asks for every day. Find out mor about their solutions and services on their booth at the KEYHOUSE.
EVENT PROGRAM
OF MUNICH FABRIC START & BLUEZONE
AT KEYHOUSE, HALL 5 & THE SEMINAR ZONE, HALL 7
Be inspired by exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions & Co. by international industry experts.
Look forward to news, insights and first-hand information from the industry.
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
THE SOURCE - The new hall
THE SOURCE: FASHION SOURCING IN THE NEW HALL 8
As the new one-stop solution for integrated fashion sourcing, THE SOURCE offers flexible sourcing services and solutions for newly conceived value chains on around 2,500 m2 in the new Hall 8, opposite the MOC.
On 3 show days, 65 selected international manufacturing companies presented their offerings from cut-make-trim (CMT) to high-end production in the listed Lokhalle, which with its gigantic dimensions is one of the largest cantilevered historic steel halls in Europe.
A cluster of key sourcing countries such as Portugal, Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia, Bosnia and Vietnam will create a business-relevant mix for risk diversification, the right product mix and for every genre. Discover THE SOURCE and visit the new Hall 8 directly opposite the MOC Munich!
“To expand as a trade fair during the Corona crisis and in challenging times for the fashion industry is anything but a matter of course and was definitely a gamble. We are all the more pleased that we know even before the fair: It was right and important”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH.
“End-to-end solutions from PLV to white label for brands, labels and retailers are strongly growing segment, which we offer with THE SOURCE an extremely high-quality environment in the long term and in close partnership with our exhibitor. In direct connection to MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE and in an architecturally outstanding location, with an extremely high-quality exhibition stand system and a selective choice of international exhibitors.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
The New EU Textiles Strategy: 15 Things You Need To Know
The New EU Textiles Strategy: 15 Things You Need To Know
A contribution of Muchaneta ten Napel, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
The fashion industry produces 92 million tonnes of waste. It is also responsible for 10% of the world’s carbon emissions. The ugly truth is that the way that the fashion industry does business is making an unsustainable impact on natural resources and the environment at each stage of the supply chain.
So what can be done to minimise an industry-wide problem’s carbon and environmental footprints? Well, this is where the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles comes into play.
Is It Empowering the Green Transition?
More than just another set of rigid rules, the new EU textiles strategy is driven to address the need for businesses to take responsibility and act to minimise their carbon and environmental footprints. Proposed by the EU Commission, the plan has been set up to help the EU shift to a circular economy that can tackle fast fashion, textile waste and the destruction of unsold textiles. The strategy also aims to encourage businesses to participate actively in the co-creation process through their commitments to circularity and circular business models.
As part of the EU Green Deal, the strategy proposes to make sustainable products “the norm in the EU.” Pushing forward the idea that all production fully respects social rights, the plan also calls on companies to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable and recyclable.
Bringing attention to a product’s lifecycle, the strategy focuses on design through to end-of-life. The agenda is to kickstart actions that ensure that by 2030 textile products placed on the EU market will be more eco-friendly and long-lasting.
With so much change promised, the Commission’s proposal of new rules can be complex for some to unpack. So here are ten things you need to know about the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.
15 Things you need to know
- The new strategy is part of a much broader package, including as many as 16 new legislative actions and other policies that will directly impact the textile value chain.
- Create a model of thriving green and digital transition in manufacturing.
- The strategy will require manufacturers to give consumers more information on how to reuse, repair and recycle clothing.
- The goal is to phase out fast fashion and have more businesses commit to business models that allow for the reuse and repair of products to be widely available.
- In the textile sector, the strategy hopes producers will take responsibility for their products along the value chain, including when they become waste.
- Promoting the circular textiles ecosystem, the EU textiles strategy aims to support and accompany the textiles ecosystem throughout its transformative journey.
- By supporting innovative fibre-to-fibre recycling, the plan is to reduce, to a minimum, the incineration and landfilling of textile waste.
- Solutions and measures include more precise information, a Digital Product Passport and a mandatory EU extended producer responsibility scheme.
- The strategy highlights the need for accuracy regarding green claims by proposing new consumer rights and a ban on greenwashing.
- Reverse overproduction and overconsumption, and discourage the destruction of unsold or returned textiles.
- Propose mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles with eco- modulation of fees.
- Address the unintentional release of microplastics from synthetic textiles.
- Restrict the export of textile waste and promote sustainable textiles globally.
- Incentivise circular business models, including reuse and repair services.
- Adopt favourable taxation measures for the reuse and repair sector. Lastly, the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles end game is to make the EU market more friendly to the environment, circular, and energy-efficient and bring balance back to global supply chains. So to conclude, yes, the EU textiles sustainability strategy is very ambitious, but this is why it is critical that it is implemented correctly.
Are you interested in more in-depth facts and figures of the new textile economy?
Visit the FashNerd.com Lounge at H5 | 28 or join their mini lectures Keyhouse.
About the author
Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.
Muchaneta ten Napel | editor@fashnerd.com
THIS MIGHT BE ALSO INTERESTING FOR YOU
Drawn by the sun – Sustainable Innovations
The textiles have the peotic power of tracing time. The changes in the colours make the ageing process visible and make transience a subject of discussion – spiritual as well as material.
BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
Their engagement with sustainability was honored at the Bio Day event organized by ECOCERT, where they were awarded as Tunisia's first sustainable textile industry.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part II
Satins, recycled and natural-looking fabrics and special tactile effects make for great designs.
The latest accessory developments for Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
Nature meets artificial materials. Upcycling or the use of fabric remnants, offcuts, ingredients from previous collections are another big theme.
Smart Knitting – Sustainable Innovations
When the programmers of KNITWEAR LAB teamed up with 3D software specialists, a completely new idea for more sustainable, cost-efficient and design-oriented pattern development and knitwear production emerged.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
Stripes and checks are often seen in Autumn/Winter 2024-2025, tone on tone or through vibrant, ethnic colours. Checks bring movement to these colours and are in high demand as light and elegant checks.
The clothing of the future – Sustainable Innovations
Bye bye, plastic! The long-term goal is to be able to replace virgin polyester as a raw material.
MUNICH FABRIC START – closing report
The most important fabric trends for Autumn.Winter 2024/25, lectures and discussions on the most relevant industry topics as well as plenty of networking opportunities:
THE COMEBAG PROJECT
A team of young fashion designers has realised a great upcycling project over the last few weeks: they have sewn unique bags from former trade fair materials such as flags, various trade fair banners and carpet left overs from the MFS.
Bluezone Highlights
The 5 DENIM SENSES are brought to live thanks to the generous support from Naveena Denim Mills who provided the denim fabrics for this project.
Blue Lenz Denim Video Awards
CARVED IN BLUE/ BLUE LENZ
The winners of the second BLUE LENZ DENIM VIDEO AWARDS are out now!
Beginning back in 2021, the BLUE LENZ DENIM VIDEO AWARDS is an annual celebration of creativity, technical excellence and innovation in the denim industry.
The Awards take place at Bluezone, the Munich Fabric Start international trade show for denim, street and sportswear.
The BLUE LENZ YouTube channel was launched in January 2020 with the aim to capture and curate all the latest original video content cover stories, education, sustainability initiatives, fabric innovations and trends from the denim community.
Currently hosting more than 430 videos and with upwards of 1,000 followers, the aim is to shine the spotlight on the best and the brightest blue videos, and recognize the best ones with an awards competition in collaboration with Bluezone.
For those of us who grew up in the era of MTV we recall the launch of music videos. It was at that time that music and videos came to life and that eventually led onto the birth of the MTV Music Video Awards in 1984.
We asked ourselves “Why can’t the denim industry have the same?”
As a category of textiles that boasts some of the deepest roots and richest of histories, denim has been an influential component of popular culture and fashion for centuries. denim is ubiquitous. Denim has impacted music, art, politics, culture – and that is what we hope is reflected in the content of the Blue Lenz Denim Video Awards.
In an effort to highlight and champion the best in our industry, as well as to credit people and teams behind each of the denim videos, we nominated videos in 8 categories. We enlisted a group of esteemed judges from around the world to debate and deliberate the winners, and it was those winners that were recognized today at the Bluezone/ Munich Fabric Start event.
Our judging panel consisted of:
Margherita Verlicchi
Menabo
(ITALY)
Michelle Branch
Markt & Twigs
(USA)
Wouter Munnichs
Long John Denim (NETHERLANDS)
Panos Sofianos
Bluezone
(GERMANY / GREECE)
Kara Nicholas
Denim Expert
(USA)
Best Educational Video/ Series
WINNER
Transformers ED Series by Transformers Foundation
2nd place: Kingston University MA Fashion – Denim Project
3rd place: Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim
Best Denim Design/ Collection
WINNER
2nd place: WASSSH! SPAIN IS DIFFERENT by Jose Medina
3rd place: “NAVEENA DENIM MIILLS X ENDRIME® X OFFICINA + 39 “FUTURE CELLULOSIC COLLECTION””
Best Sustainability - Connection to the UN SDGs
WINNER
2nd place: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers – ‘Community Membership’ APRIL 2022
3rd place tie: Celebrating Women at AGI – Women’s Day
3rd place tie: Collaboration with the Textile Institute of Pakistan
Future Forward
WINNER
2nd place: ORTA – ALWAYS TAKE THE SCENIC ROUTE
3rd place: Advance Denim – Jeans Redesgin
Honorable Mention
WINNER
Best Overall Video
WINNER
2nd: Hempy Colleciton by Bossa
3rd : NDM X OfficinaX Endrime
We also want to thank our hosts, Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start.
Photo images available upon request from the live presentation.
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
"BENEFIT CAMPUS 22" Collection
SAAT & EVLOX FOR BLUEZONE CAMPUS 2022
H 6 | B 0 5 & H 7 Charity Store
With a special thanks to BLUEZONE, SAATMUNICH has collaborated with Evlox and the Influencers @robindenim and @koenkuik with a “BENEFIT CAMPUS 22”- Collection, so you can wear your support for Ukraine in the streets and help fund relief on the ground.
The Collection will be represented at the fair that will take place on August 30th-31st.
The collaboration leverages the respective strengths of both the companies to demonstrate the iconic theme of BLUEZONE “CAMPUS 22”. Modern fabric technology from Evlox aligned with the unique concept creations of SAATMUNICH unveils the modern version of CAMPUS RETRO CLASSIC’s.
SAATMUNICH, an experienced full-service design studio from Munich, specialized in creating individual concepts in fashion and corporate wear since 2015 lines up with Evlox, the oldest denim mill in the world that have been manufacturing denim fabrics since 1846, compelling value for both the companies in signalizing the innovation from fabrics to the designs and their continuous investment in new developments.
The BLUEZONE CAMPUS uniforms are designed as a limited edition, with a purpose to support the charity project „FAIR FOR UKRAINE“. The BLUEZONE staff will proudly wear the uniforms and represent the project on the two-day show. Furthermore, there will be installations and competitions that will highlight the outfits.
SAATMUNICH Designs
SAATMUNICH is an experienced full-service design studio from Munich, specialized in creating individual concepts in fashion and corporate wear since 2015. Led by the creative masterminds and power-couple Thorsten Bulander and Sajna Weber, the studio’s aspiration is to utilize resources carefully and show an appreciative attitude towards the customer and individual. Working with some respectable companies – including leading International hotels & fairs – SAATMUNICH shows to be a trustworthy partner, who is carefully tuning in to their clients, building and shaping perfectly fitting concepts.
After successfully partnering with BLUEZONE since 2016 developing the BLUEZONE outfits with different themes and collaborations biannual, the studio has been redesignated to develop the uniforms for the upcoming show with the new collaborator EVLOX.
The theme being the programmer, the designer duo has drawn their inspiration from the golden decade of hip-hop culture and the sports legends such as Dennis Rodman and Michel ‘Air’ Jordan creating the uniforms which they call the ‘Modern Retro CAMPUS Uniforms’ Reinterpreting the past – ‘WU WEAR at its best!’ Says the denim head Thorsten Bulander.
Amidst today’s technologically-driven design culture, there has been a return to the comfort of familiar imagery and typography. New Retro shows how designs from the past can be updated to suit the needs of today, and this is exactly what SAATMUNICH did for BLUEZONE. The BLUEZONE uniforms feature an airy silhouette combined with the best typography presented by high definition embroidery and application. The oversized unisex uniforms are custom designed for the BLUEZONE staff, where great functional attributes derived from fabrics, and a style fitting perfectly to the ‘CAMPUS’ theme of the upcoming show.
Sajna Weber and Thorsten Bulander, the creative minds behind SAAT:
“We chose the fabric “Evlox – Lewis Smoothic” to design these uniforms. The Smoothic Technology by Evlox is a patented manufacturing process that results in a range of smart denim fabrics with a unique velvety feel and ultra-softness offering comfort that is transformed into maximum well-being. These fabrics earn high elasticity and low shrinkage without losing the original and authentic premium denim look. And what’s more, Evlox, continuing with their goal towards a more sustainable production have minimized the use of water and energy on these fabrics.”
EVLOX
The star ensemble is enforced by EVLOX who is taking care of the fabrics for the Campus uniforms. EVLOX is based in Spain and started as a yarn, weaving and stamping factory in 1846. In its more than 175 years of existence, the company specialized in manufacturing denim, reinventing classics and creating new solutions for the world’s most important fashion brands. Today, totally making over 15 million meters of denim, the people behind EVLOX are still sharing the same passion for denim, striving to the highest quality standards in the fabric manufacturing. Their undiminished passion and investments resulted in multiple patented products and processes, and close relationships with the giants from the fashion industry as well as ‘smaller’ – more niche – brands.
For the Campus Uniform, the design studio SAATMUNICH selected two denim fabrics which were made following the patented Smoothic manufacturing process. The Smoothic Technology, a combination of innovation resulting in a range of smart denim fabrics – with a unique velvety feel and ultra-softness offering comfort that is transformed into maximum well-being. These fabrics earn high elasticity and low shrinkage without losing the original and authentic premium denim look. With sustainability at the core of every step, EVLOX managed to minimize the use of water and energy during the production of these fabrics.
The CAMPUS RETRO CLASSIC’s are executed in both an Ecru and a Denim version and are a harmonious balance of the innovative fabric technology from EVLOX aligned with the unique concept creations of SAATMUNICH.
Help with us – Charity Project „FAIR FOR UKRAINE“
H7 Charity Shop – Bluezone Stage or SAATMUNICH (H6 B05)
With these “BENEFIT CAMPUS 22” Collection you support those affected – and show solidarity.
50% OF ALL PROCEEDS will be donated to the Charity Project – FAIR FOR UKRAINE
SAATMUNICH (booth H6 B05) and Evlox (booth H6 C06)
will be presenting this collaboration in co-operation with the Denim Influencer’s @robindenim and @koenkuik. You are all invited to toast with us at the Bluezone party.