Simon Angel

Enschede Textielstad by Annemieke Koster

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 22/23 #2

30. October 2021

Enschede Textielstad by Annemieke Koster

Until the 1970s, Enschede in the Netherlands, was one of Europe’s textile strongholds, along with Manchester. Then textile production gradually disappeared from the cityscape because it was much cheaper to produce clothes and textiles in low-wage countries. With this however, traceability, protection of workers and sustainability often fall by the wayside – which is why Enschede Textielstad was born out of Annemieke Koster’s desire to bring back transparency along the textile value chain and revive the city’s former traditions.

“I want to bring textiles back to Enschede and make it a city of textiles again – where professionals who still know the craftsmanship of yesteryear pull their knowledge and find innovative approaches. But then in a new, innovative collaboration.”

Local, natural, high quality: In the industrial weaving mill Enschede Textielstad, natural and as locally produced as possible yarns and fabrics for fashion and home textiles are created. The basis for this is formed by fair and environmentally friendly raw materials that are sourced exclusively from well-known suppliers: guaranteed Made in Europe – for shorter transportation routes and a smaller environmental footprint. Enschede Textielstad’s offers various options: Readymade fabrics produce bestsellers for direct purchase, Made To Order fabrics are woven but can be customised, or Custom Made fabrics for particularly individual ideas, new fabrics or for recycling product waste – so there is something to suit everyone.


Chiengora instead of Angora

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 22/23 #1

15. October 2021

Yarnsustain by Ann Cathrin Schönrock & Franziska Uhl

Often, solutions for ethical and sustainable are not used, even when they are the most obvious one. Fashion and knitwear designer Ann Cathrin Schönrock and textile engineer Franziska Uhl have searched the market  in vain for sustainable and at the same time high-quality yarns which led the duo to get creative themselves: They founded the company Yarnsustain to revolutionise the fashion and textile industry with yarns and fabrics made from dog hair.

“The wool industry currently imports high-quality fibers from around the world, while the source is often walking directly in front of our faces. With us making this resource available to the textile industry, we are able to correct this systemic error. Pet-based high quality wool enables everyone out there to contribute to a better textile future.“

Back in 2017, Ann Cathrin Schönrock, who is a dog owner herself, started working with her dog’s wool – because why shouldn’t this material, which is actually considered waste, also be used for clothing or to fill home textiles? Together with her co-founder Franziska Uhl, she developed the high-quality Chiengora®, a yarn made from the undercoat of long-haired dogs. Support by funds from the German government, the organisation was able to collect more than two tonnes of undercoat this year alone and process it into yarn.

Behind the company are the NGO Saving Lost Resources e.V., Yarnsustain and the brand company modus intarsia. In this triad, the founders contribute to animal welfare, produce high-quality yarns and sell garments made from dog hair – to further promote consumer acceptance and establish garments made from dog hair on the market.


Step into Sustainable Innovations with us

An Interview with Simon Angel, Curator of Sustainable Innovations

26. August 2021

We’re proud to announce the next edition of Sustainable Innovations Forum with soon take place at MUNICH FABRIC START from 31/08 – 02/09/2021 in the MOC, Munich. The inspiring showcase offers sustainable sourcing solutions with a strong focus on alternative design and manufacturing processes. Meant to encourage and support a new way of thinking and approach to sustainable textiles it also provides a unique opportunity for collaboration and conversation.

Holistic, sustainable solutions are presented in the newly designed ReSOURCE X SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS area for the first time together at the show. The close interaction of the innovation platforms offers orientation, depth of information and specific application options for the sourcing of future-oriented textiles.

Where will ReSOURCE X SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS be found at MUNICH FABRIC START? >> Foyer Hall 4, rooms K3 & K4

The new topic for this season is about scale. What’s it all about exactly?

That’s right. Each edition of our Sustainable Innovations Forum draws attention to innovations that are inspiring and shaping the industry. For the past decade, the focus has been on how designers and smaller brands could enter ‘the bigger system’ and connect with the rest of the industry. Now the focus has shifted and we are entering a new phase –the topic on everyone’s lips this year is what we can call: “Suscalability”. We already have a feeling of how the market can grow, but the questions we’re asking now are: What is the best way to grow? What does growing mean in the content of the future? How can we scale up in a responsible way? Suscalability is made up of sustainability and scalability. Ultimately, it is a balance between conscious consuming and how companies will grow their strategies in a sustainable and challenging way.

So, it’s just about growth?

Among other things, It’s more about the questions: What am I doing for whom? All brands and projects are asking themselves this question in their own context. They want to measure their own craftsmanship and skills. Suscalability is about the value of awareness, about mindful growth. There are three types of growth: horizontal, vertical and multidimensional. Vertical growth is about the product itself. Horizontal growth is about the company’s right to be part of the market. And then there is the multidimensional level, which is about the growth of the value itself and how to integrate that value into the whole production process. Suscalability is a three dimensional concept that includes all three forms. Producers need to make decisions to help them reach this point of growth – that’s the challenge.

Simon Angel, Curator of Sustainable Innovations
Fixing Fashion by Alicia Minaard
New Blue by Tim van der Loo and Sandra Nicoline Nielsen
Seaweed Design by Violaine Buet

Why do we need a different approach to growth?

In the past, most companies only chose between horizontal or vertical growth. After years of growth, the question now is: how big can a brand get while remaining flexible? The scale of a company becomes either a problem or a challenge. Big companies are struggling with how to get smaller again. In my opinion, that is the reason why so many brands are launching sub-brands and collaborations at the moment. This is the only way for bigger companies to descale and deliver again. Being big is the problem – the big brands can no longer create real value from this large scale and therefore cannot break out of this vicious circle.

What do you want to achieve with your selection of brands at Munich Fabric Start’s Sustainable Innovations Forum?

Once again we aimed to capture and feel the heartbeat of the market and the work of the designers. Every project is unique and tells its own story within the larger context about the possibilities of sustainable textiles and approaches. From recycled fabrics to fashion made of dog hair to platforms for recycling and upcycling: the brands are demonstrating exactly what I was just talking about –. how to create value from a textile, how to achieve slow and mindful growth with a sustainable idea and how to earn your place in the fashion industry. But most importantly: How to reconnect the user with the resource in order to restore value. The focus on suscalability aims to encourage Sustainable Innovations visitors to interact, immerse themselves and be inspired. We want to motivate people to get involved and start thinking about new approaches.

Modus Intarsia by Ann Cathrin Schönrock und Franziska Uhl
Fixing Fashion by Alicia Minaard
Textielstad Enschede by Annemiek Koster

MUNICH FABRIC START
Tue, 31/08, 9.30am – 6.30pm

Wed, 01/09, 9.30am – 6.30pm

Thu, 02/09, 9.30am – 4.00pm

MOC Munich

Lilienthalallee 40
80939 Munich

BLUEZONE

Tue, 31/08, 9.30am – 6.30pm

Wed, 01/09, 9.30am – 6.30pm

Zenith Area
Lilienthalallee 29
80939 Munich

Germany

SAVE THE DATES – NEXT SHOWS

VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION

30/11 – 01/12/2021

MUNICH FABRIC START

25/01 – 27/01/2022

BLUEZONE

25/01 – 26/01/2022


From Trash to Treasure by Youyang Song

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #4

7. October 2020

Dutchman Simon Angel has found a talented designer whose innovation makes it possible to create textiles from recycled bioplastics. The curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS presented these and three other developments during the FABRIC DAYS.

„More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback”, explains Simon Angle in our interview with him.

An example of this is presented here as part of the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS:

FROM TRASH TO TREASURE BY YOUYANG SONG

How can innovative products be created without using new resources? How can we stop growing mountains of waste? Use the old to create the new: The designer and materials researcher Youyang Song has set herself the goal of helping to develop an ecosystem consisting of purely biodegradable materials. Handbags made of banana peel, lampshades made of soy milk – the designer processes organic waste into new recyclable materials. This results in products that can be returned to the natural cycle at the end of the product life cycle.

„Our goal is to establish a circular economy regarding the materials and follow the sustainable development guidelines to create our products.“

Youyang Song

Song has developed the “Cooking new materials” technique, in which fruit peels or soy milk are mixed with a natural binding agent. “APeel” is the name of the soft, innovative material created by this process. The natural product is also waterproof and robust like real leather, smells fruity, has a natural texture and is completely biodegradable. Protecting the environment in style: With her project, Song wants to show that environmentally friendly products can be not only practical, but also aesthetic and stylish.


Perfect Imperfection by Studio Mend

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #3

30. September 2020

FABRIC DAYS presented futuristic innovations of international manufacturers. Besides, Sustainable Innovations curator Simon Angel introduced innovative developments of young designers in the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS forum.

“Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative”, states Simon Angle in our interview with him.

An example of this “traditional innovation” is:

PERFECT IMPERFECTION BY STUDIO MEND

A new pair of jeans for 29,99€, a t-shirt for 7,99€. Constantly changing trends, synthetic fabrics and inferior quality: Since fast fashion conquered the world in the 1960’s, new clothes are available everywhere and at all times. What is broken is thrown away and what is no longer in fashion lies unused in the cupboard. More than two million tonnes of textile waste are generated annually in the European Union alone. When did our relationship to clothing change in such a way? This question was asked by the young fashion designer Sunniva Amber Flesland. She founded Studio Mend in 2019 to bring back the emotional and material value of what we wear.

 

“I am excited by raw material, old crafts and traditions, beauty, and looking for potential where it’s not easily seen.”

Sunniva Amber Flesland

Appreciate, repair, refine: At Studio Mend, traces of wear and tear from through the lifespan of the garments are repaired in a very special way. Island Weave, Edge Mend, Pinstripe Patch, Crossover Stitch: The customer can choose between these four carefully developed technical styles to make his or her damaged favourite piece whole again. In combination with individual colour designs, valued and unique pieces are created. The acceptance of transience and imperfection – this is the basic principle of the Japanese philosophy Wabi Sabi, which served as inspiration for Flesland. Instead of hiding faults, they are celebrated as signs of an eventful life. Visibly and ingeniously, the artist creates valuable, aesthetic and unique pieces as a statement for a better fashion world.


Solar Self by Pauline van Dongen

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #2

Every season, Simon Angel is searching for the four most futuristic SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS.

These four sustainable developments have been presented at FABRIC DAYS – one of them being this textile innovation that combines technology and fashion in a unique way:

SOLAR SELF by PAULINE VAN DONGEN

A dress to recharge your smartphone? What sounds like utopia is already tangible reality. For their project “Zonnestof” (“Sun Dust”), Pauline Van Dongen and Maaike Gottschal have developed a woven textile with thin, flexible solar cells, thus creating new aesthetic qualities and material properties. A play on colour, texture and transparency: By combining the solar cells with different yarns and various weaving patterns and techniques, a wide range of textiles can be produced.

“The creative process invites people to participate, to explore their dreams and wishes as well as to show what role solar energy can play in their daily lives. All participants become owners of the project through their contribution and thus part of a larger movement.”

Pauline van Dongen

But the Dutch fashion designers and researchers are not only interested in embedding technology in fashion. The initiators of the project are much more interested in the social experience of working with solar fabrics and wearing technology on the body. In workshops, the project invites the participants to create their own piece of “solar design” and weave a sustainable future. Instead of seeing nature and technology as opponents, Van Dongen and Gottschal want to make technology something that goes without saying. And it is not only fashion that can gain unprecedented added value from solar fabric: The textile can also be used in architecture or interior design, for new transport concepts and in public spaces as well as for events and festivals.


Living Material by Iris Bekkers

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION Autumn.Winter 21/22 #1

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel presented four developments for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 at FABRIC DAYS at the beginning of September. The Dutchman is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world.

In our latest interview with him, he stated: “With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible.”

Let us now present you the first of this season’s SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENTS:

LIVING MATERIAL BY IRIS BEKKERS

Doesn’t fit anymore, doesn’t fit properly: Many of our favourite pieces of clothing lose their shape after a short time and are shipped directly to the nearest garbage dump. Textiles that adapt to individual body shapes and external conditions could reform the fashion and textile industry.

To create such textiles, product designer Iris Bekkers uses auxetic materials in her project “Moving Structures”, i.e. stretchable materials that can adapt their structure to their surroundings. As part of her final project at Eindhoven University of Technology, she has developed a special face mask that not only adapts to different face shapes, but also adapts its filter function to the environment and is very breathable.

More comfort, longer wearing time, less waste: Due to their geometric structures, auxetic materials become thicker when stretched, rather than thinner like most fabrics. The potential of such fabrics ranges from jackets that adapt to the seasons and can therefore be worn in summer and winter, to shoes that change their flexibility and stability as required. Bringing the material to life: For her designs, Iris Bekkers not only thinks about the material and its texture, but also about the context in which the fabrics are used and enjoyed. Only in this way can her designs combine man and nature.

“The auxetic samples are the start and inspiration for a range of products that can adapt and transform themselves, functioning optimally in different circumstances. The potential for adaptability results in more value, more function and a reduction in the quantity of materials and products necessary.”

Iris Bekkers


SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS: Interview with Simon Angel

You’re curating the Sustainable Innovations forum at Munich Fabric Start for the fourth time. Where are you looking for these new ideas and concepts?

I follow the heartbeat of current and future matters and perspectives. I am inspired by people and products which question the quality and essence of life. This leads me to the roots of the design processes, to the inner core of the industry, research institutes and universities. Textile innovations can be found in all different kinds of areas from fashion to health care, automotive as well as many other sectors. The art of thinking outside and inside the box at the same time plays a central role to find new innovations.

What do the showcased projects have in common?

There are two aspects which unite the Sustainable Innovations: poetry and purpose – and we most definitely need both! We need people who respond with poetry to inspire and open up new ideas and we need the hardcore problem solvers. With this edition we show several projects that provide concrete examples of what the successful interplay between poetry and problem solving can look like. Be it in 3D printing solutions or in human capital or in terms of circular solutions. Sustainable Innovations showcases great examples of what re-thinking and re-acting can lead to.

With regards to the exhibits, do you see any major trends?

I see the need for and can almost hear a desperate cry for contact. People want to develop a deeper relationship with each other but also with products and materials. The overload of information and the limitless possibilities to connect brings us to the essence of connection: purpose. The designers question their activities, relationships, products, services and business models in order to establish connections that make sense. Connections which will enable and explore new ideas, materials and directions. The power to create a new kind of connection is the next innovation: meaningful people, purposeful like poetry.

What can the industry learn from Sustainable Innovations?

Perhaps it’s not so much about learning something, but more about opening up and establishing a dialogue. The designer has their own view of the market as well as human needs and the industry has its own view and perspectives as well – but these two perspectives are not always sufficiently aligned. Therefore collaborations are key: BEyondAWARE!