Spring.Summer24

BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part IV

Discover the latest innovations from BLUEZONE - Part IV

17. October 2023

With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. We present some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry here:

ORTA

ORTANOW collection embodies ORTA’s 70 years of rich denim history with an innovation leading eco–modern handprint. The collection speaks of ORTA icons: from marble ring early nineties Japanese influence to Homespun ultimate X-Hatch of the 00s, from our first generation of multi-count fabrics to evolved techno shine flex to the Alchemy finish for cashmere touch, and the denim disruption of 100% bi-stretch with ORTA legends like 5616, Calgary, Taos and many more.

ORTA

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REALTEKS

REALTEKS started on its adventure in 1997 with a dream in the pocket. In 2022, REALTEKS owned a denim mill to do more for the carbon print on its 25th anniversary called “RE-BORN”. Their SEASONLESS Collection is all about Futurity Antique, The Essential Feature, Rigid Stretch, Simple Motion, Monochromatic, RE-Blue as concepts created in REALTEKS. In a world full of trends, they are not here to be average, they want to remain UNIQUE. They believe in NATURAL SOULS, they believe in DREAMS, they believe in REAL friendships, they believe in REAL LOVE. What is your super power?

REALTEKS

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SHARABATI DENIM

Sharabati Denim presents three major concepts for this season: Blacklight is about the dark indigo colors, blacks, overdyes and coated fabrics. Their overdye technique gives the fabric a range of colors on both sides for extra versatility. Indigo coating lends denim deep dark hues and creates a denim look when applied to gaberdine. Kaleidoscope is about the millennium time looks. Hi-tech and retro at the same time. More colorful, cheerful with heavy washes. 50/50 rewrites the dress code rules with hybrid working. Find comfortable and smart-looking fabrics suitable for work time.

SHARABATI DENIM

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TEJIDOS ROYO

Pioneers in the development of the most sustainable ZERO WATER dyeing technology in denim… now for piece dyeing! They dye fabrics without using water, achieving excellent fastness. This is how ROYO POLICROM was born, the magic of transformation. An endless number of colour possibilities, with very trendy finishes such as the most authentic leather effect, the futuristic metallic finish or the denim color, among others. In DENIM they highlight ICON – fabrics made from 100% recycled components and sustainable practices. ICON is recycled and recyclable, therefore, ETERNAL. Its colour is DRY INDIGO and DRY BLACK = ZERO WATER. Undoubtedly, it is the future of denim.

TEJIDOS ROYO

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IMPRESSIONS OF THE BLUEZONE CONEXXION

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by Chantal Graeff

BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part III

Discover the latest innovations from BLUEZONE - Part III

3. October 2023

With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. We present some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry here:

KSENIASCHNAIDER

KSENIASCHNAIDER is a worldwide known Ukrainian brand with a strong commitment to experiment with recycling fabrics and eco-friendly materials and promote a more sustainable approach to fashion. The brand continues to innovate and improve eco-friendly practices with the intent to preserve the environment. Using sustainable technology Nanocork by LebiuDesign — recycled finish made by cork stoppers — brand released new brand jackets and shorts for new menswear collection SS24. Patchworked from vintage denim cutting-edge items inspired by utilitarian aesthetic conceived as uniform for daily routine.

KSENIASCHNAIDER

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KUZGUNLAR TEKSTİL

Kuzgunlar Tekstil mostly manufactures product groups such as jackets, dresses, jumpsuit, jeans, shorts and skirts. They like to push the limits of production with denim, non-denim and special knitted fabrics in ready-to-wear products and are open to innovations. Their young and innovative team tracks trends and sustainable developments to save raw materials and time. By following fashion weeks, trend analysis, sustainable fabric/accessory developments and eco-friendly washing technologies they offer new ideas to their customers.

KUZGUNLAR TEKSTİL

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LOTUSTEX

Experience the best of sustainable denim with the Lotustex collection that captures the timeless aesthetic of 80s vintage jeans. As a leading denim supplier with over 30 years of industry experience, Lotustex prioritizes eco-friendly practices and materials, including %100 recycled fabric and innovative waterless production technology. Join them in creating a greener future without compromising on style or quality. Embrace denim that’s as good for the planet as it looks on you…

LOTUSTEX

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MTVBELTS

Established in 1993 in Benedita, Portugal, MTV offers several and high-quality techniques to customize leather garments accessories, such as leather belts, leather bracelets and other leather goods. The quality of workmanship, modern equipment, the use of vegetable leather and the teamwork between design department and private labels are the main and successfully ingredients to the quality and beauty of the belts and other leather goods.

MTVBELTS

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IMPRESSIONS OF THE BLUEZONE CONEXXION

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by Chantal Graeff

BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part II

Discover the latest innovations from BLUEZONE - Part II

14. September 2023

With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. We present some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry here:

GAP PAZARLAMA

Established in 1994, GP is one of the major sourcing companies of the world textile market. GP adds value to the broad portfolio of customers particularly in Europe, USA and World Class markets and contribute to sustainable development of suppliers GP is the leading textile supplier in Turkey and produces a wide range of products at its integrated ready-to-wear, home textile, denim fabric, greige fabric and cotton yarn factories.

GAP PAZARLAMA

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HAMANSUTRA

Clothing brand HAMANSUTRA, founded 1996, makes jackets, pants and shirts inhouse, as authentic as 150 years ago. The “clothing works“ is equipped with a formidable array of vintage sewing machines – battered, yet still going strong. At its heart: Haman himself, design director, (clothing) mechanic and master technical tailor. His motto: “No Savings – Only Quality”. Quality outlasts the biggest global trends, and quality is never on sale.

HAMANSUTRA

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ISKO LUXURY BY PG

ISKO and Paolo Gnutti teaming up can only mean that the fashion world needs to be ready for the latest ISKO™ Luxury collection by PG: Boundless, a story that is narrated through four new capsules that take you to unique places and scenarios full of emotion and history. Get ready for precious yarns, flocks, 3D designs, velvety coats and everything in between.

ISKO LUXURY BY PG

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ISKO

Ctrl+Z reaches new heights in ISKO’s FW 24/25 collection. The result of 10 years of research, it stands for durability, sustainability and circularity and can now be mixed with plant-based fibers such as Soya, Lyocell, Modal, and Naia™ acetate, bringing you Ctrl+Z Blends. Last but not least, great stretch and color innovations are coming your way with ISKO Reform and XENON.

ISKO

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IMPRESSIONS OF THE BLUEZONE CONEXXION

MORE ABOUT CONEXXION

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by Chantal Graeff

BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part I

Discover the latest innovations from BLUEZONE - Part I

15. August 2023

With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. We present some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry here:

BLUESIGN TECHNOLOGIES

clean chemistry. clean production. clean bluesign® DENIM. Denim has always symbolized rebellion, identity, and freedom to live how we choose. Yet, the denim and textile industry’s impact on the planet is substantial. For their denim partners, bluesign® DENIM is a unique solution. bluesign® DENIM reduces the impact of production on the environment and on people. It connects the denim value chain, ensuring our partners work towards the cleanest denim in the world. bluesign® APPROVED denim ensures the safety of workers, the environment, and ultimately the consumer.

BLUESIGN TECHNOLOGIES

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CALIK DENIM

Calik Denim presents its Autumn.Winter 24/25 collection by prioritizing sustainability with innovative concepts and technologies:  B210 as one of a kind, eco-conscious, biodegradable product line. Rawtech combines sought-after Japanese Denim spirit with ultra comfort thanks to modern manufacturing processes. E-last is one of a kind power stretch product group as weft shrinkage values stabilized for rigid articles’ standard (0/3,5%). Fix-Fit offers power stretch articles with high level recovery. Denovated is about authentic look combined with the advantages of today’s technologies. Selfsized features one size fits most technology. Re/J is a 100% recycled content with both pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton line.

CALIK DENIM

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DENIM AUTHORITY

Established in 1973, Denim Authority has emerged as the first denim industry in Tunisia, renowned as a leader in the textile sector. Their engagement with sustainability was honored at the Bio Day event organized by ECOCERT, where they were awarded as Tunisia’s first sustainable textile industry. Celebrating our anniversary 50-year milestone, we will invite you to join our universe and discover the oldest archive and collection of vintage denim pieces, alongside our latest selvedge apron-washed designs, which will be displayed in the Bluezone in Munich. Reinventing itself today for tomorrow!

DENIM AUTHORITY

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DNM DENIM

DNM DENIM presents two new concepts with the HARMONYLAND collection in autum.winter 24/25. They have been designed to support sustainable production and circular economy. MADE FOR EVER & WEAR FOREVER features the most sustainable fabric that is the one with the longest wear life. Their new concept’s fabrics are designed to be the most durable with practical solutions for sustainable production. ADAPT TO ALL is a gender-neutral collection: genderless, limitless and timeless. This collection offers a wide color range and construction options.

DNM DENIM

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Naveena Denim NDL

Naveena Denim NDL stands as a trailblazing denim mill, distinguished by its distinguished craftsmanship and dedication to producing top-tier denim fabrics. Nestled in the heart of Lahore our production facilities innovation, start of the art units, sustainable advancements, and diverse range of products.

NAVEENA DENIM

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IMPRESSIONS OF THE BLUEZONE CONEXXION

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by Chantal Graeff

Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 VIII

Fabrics Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part VIII

30. May 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

SICTESS

PURITY is the new S/S 24 collection by Sictess, a high-end brand of Tessitura Monti, a celebration of the essential and purity, represented by high quality products. Fine double twisted cottons, lightweight linens, GOTS certified organic cottons and shiny silks, give life to fabrics that embody the purity of perfection. Luxury is the exclusive workmanship made in Italy. Skilled weavers create works of art expressed in jacquard, leno weave, plissé and ajour.

SICTESS

TEKSTINA

Tekstina’s approach is to play with design and creativity to create novelties. For SS24 the story is all about Bazar. Imagine to walk through a bazar with all its creative colours and shapes. The new collection features colourful micro, geometrical designs on one side and organic, abstract shapes on the other. It takes you through Tekstina ́s traditional designs, a summer harvest mood or tribal gathering club in Miami.

TEKSTINA

ZEYNAR MENSUCAT

Zeynar’s new SS24 collection stands for healing with the power of nature. The Cyber Lime, blended with natural and digital elements, calm and futuristic pastels, peaceful blue tones, green tones of nature luminous red and pinks, and high contrast digital colors to highlight the Metaverse. Respecting to nature, our sustainable fabrics and special processes are at the forefront.

ZEYNAR MENSUCAT

TESSITURA MONTI

BLOOMING S/S24 – The theme of colors develops around new textile bases with surprising textures, releasing a contemporary and sophisticated taste. Seersucker embossed effects, ajour micro-transparency, floral prints give life to a collection that is a “bloom” of good mood and lightness. Cotton and last generation polyamide with a “crispy” and hyper-technical hand, perfect for overshirt and functional shirt. Presented pure or with blend (cotton or tencel), their linen has a light and sophisticated hand.

TESSITURA MONTI

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BLUEZONE DISCOVERY - Part III

Discover the latest innovations from BLUEZONE - Part III

23. May 2023

With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own Halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. Some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry we present to you here:

ISKO TM LUXURY BY PG

A new range of products is taking the denim world to the next level as ISKO teams up with Paolo Gnutti. Combining ISKO’s advanced denim technologies with PG’s creative vision, the result is the special ISKO™ Luxury collection by PG. Moods reworking selvedge, or inspired by the animal world, then colors, foils, prints, flocked fabrics: experimentations once again ‘Born to Amaze’.

ISKO TM LUXURY BY PG

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ISKO

ISKO’s 2024 Vol.1 Collection marks the debut of Ctrl+Z, materials science innovation. Ctrl+Z, fabrics are made from a pure blend of recycled cotton and polyester with regenerated cellulosic fibers: the results look and feel identical to traditional compositions offering unmatched durability. This consistency is even more key when it comes to high-performance fabrics, stretch technologies and comfort fits, signature staples of ISKO’s expertise.

ISKO

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STROM

STROM is a fully vertical factory & laundry established in 2008. They are one of the leading companies in Jeanswear manufacturing in Istanbul, Turkey with a long tradition of quality and customer satisfaction.

The focus is on innovation and flexibility; and a vertically integrated process enables them to meet the various demands of our partners, from ideas and design through to finished products. With their own sustainable laundry, sampling, design and pattern facilities, production in-house and dedicated sourcing capabilities, they achieve the highest ethical and manufacturing standards.

STROM

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VICUNHA

Recognized around the world for its high standards of quality and sustainability, Vicunha is one of the three largest global producers of indigo and twill and number one in Latin America. Vicunha is daily committed to create products and techniques that continually reduce its impact on the environment. The differentiators include, among others, the use of recycled and recovered pre-consumed cotton, special fibers such as REFIBRA TM and Hemp, and water saving up to 95%.

VICUNHA

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INSIGHTS OF BLUEZONE DISCOVERY

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by Chantal Graeff

Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 VII

Fabrics Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part VII

18. May 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

GRATEX

Textiles are the fabric from which our passion is woven: Gratex is a reliable family business with 50 years of international experience and always on the pulse of the fashion world. Since 2021, they have also been a partner of BETTER COTTON (BCI), the world’s largest initiative for sustainable cotton production. For their customers, Gratex spans the spectrum from fashionable fabric design to yard goods for the coming season. Our Spring/Summer 2024 collection includes traditional and fashion prints, jacquard fabrics, lace, shirting and much more. Fresh pastel shades, bright pink and elegant greens whet the appetite for summer.

GRATEX

MARIA MADALENA DA ROCHA AZEVEDO

MMRA is a Portuguese family business with 40 years of experience in circular knitting. It exports to several international markets, presents a wide range of natural, organic, recycled and synthetic products. MMRA is committed to Oeko-Tex, Gots, GRS and OCS certifications. Among the innovations, the use of materials such as textile paper and banana thread with a pineapple mixture stand out.

LEMAR

Lemar offers a responsible sourcing and fiber choice, eco labels, and fiber-to-fiber technologies in their new Spring.Summer 24 collection. These developments have improved positively the features of the yarns selected, helping to create fabrics with better performance from an environmental perspective. Find value-added fabrics offering advantages across all areas of sustainability, like: Seaqual™, Newlife™, AmniSoulEco™, Yarnaway™, Q-Nova™ and their brand-new fabrics woven with EVO by Fulgar, Sensil™ BioCare and Sensil™ byNature – because we care.

LEMAR

Cody

MEHLER – LODENFABRIK

Since 1644 the woollen mill Mehler guarantees development, quality and service. Due to full integration of their production with their own spinning, weaving, dye-works and finishing, they offer everything from fibre to fabric: everything they do is 100% made in Germany. Apart from main articles such as classic woollen fabrics from carded and worsted yarn, they also develop new products. „Shine“ is unique by its sparkling effect. In addition the composite „Cody“ is a fabric made for apparel with a smooth fabric on the one side and a woollen fleece on the other side. Both made from 100% wool – for quality and sustainability.

MEHLER - LODENFABRIK

Shine

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by Chantal Graeff

DESIGN STUDIOS - SPRING.SUMMER 24

DESIGN STUDIOS

16. May 2023

The DESIGN STUDIOS area offers creative input, progressive ideas and new designs. Here, textile designers and trend agencies from all over the world show their fabric designs and latest developments for prints and patterns.

Some exhibitors in this area are:

LE STUDIO COPENHAGEN | FUSION CPH | CIRCLELINE | LICA DESIGN | DESIGN STUDIO FLUXUS | ZISSER | BERNINI | BUNTASTIC |
ELEONORA CLERICI | BOGGIA DISEGNI | WHITE STUDIO | BUREAUX BO

BOLDDESIGN STUDIO

Creative handmade prints for the fashion industry and home textiles with painting in several techniques and styles: BoldDesign Studio uses gouache, pens, watercolors, dry pastels, create tie-dyes, scientific illustrations and more.

Located in the north of Portugal, in the center of one of the largest clusters of producers, spinners, weavers, printers and garment manufacturers, they make use of design with deep knowledge of production methods, mixing techniques, reinventing what has already been invented and taking advantage of our textile knowledge.

BOLDDESIGN STUDIO

BUNTASTIC DESIGN STUDIO

Buntastic Design Studio welcomes the new season with fluid forms, refreshing green accents and ethnic patterns from Morocco. With watercolor tie dye and wavy forms the studio let us feel the water. Green as a color of hope, harmony and stability won ́t lose its current importance. Tolerance and interest are travelling the world and celebrating the beauty of its diverse cultures.

BUNTASTIC DESIGN STUDIO

BUREAUX BO

For the Spring Summer 24 collection, BUREAUX BO immerses itself in the lightness of bright, cheerful colours combined with blurred textures. Large floral
formats, new interpretations of geometrics and “natural dyes” are the hallmarks of this collection. BUREAUX BO combines years of experience with a strong sense for current trends and innovations.

Located in Düsseldorf we are inspired by a diverse art scene, unusual architecture and diverse cultures. In addition to the seasonal trends, we develop free
and independent prints that are durable due to their timelessness and can be used long term.

BUREAUX BO

FUSION CPH

Fusion CPH is a leading Danish print studio, with over twenty years of experience. We pride ourselves in beautiful craftsmanship, talent from all around the world and delivering our innovative prints with a cool Scandi twist. Our collection is inspired by an analysis of the latest catwalks, street styles and consumer trend reports and our design process often starts by hand, with a focus on hand drawing and painting.

FUSION CPH

LICA DESIGN STUDIO

Lica‘s new versatile print collection for Spring/Summer 24 is based on two poles that form the essence: ‚Superfluity‘ and ‚Understatement‘. There are various reasons to find joy in the opulence of colors and shapes: It dresses you in self-confidence during uncertain times. And, it might make you question what is real, as the natural and virtual worlds blend. The diametrically opposed ‘Understatement’ finds peace in the reduction of color and the disappearance of form. It looks for nothing less than the essence of harmony. Solitude can be defined as a luxury.

LICA DESIGN STUDIO

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by Chantal Graeff

Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 VI

Fabrics Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part VI

11. May 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

SERIDE

Seride developed 4 macro themes for Spring/Summer 24 collection:

Summer Haus which includes seaside stripes, painterly patterns, time-honored shapes, simple checks, puckered knits & seersucker, cream or natural linen grounds.

Sea Life is about Tie-dye, abstract, floral & herbal patterns mixed with shades of aquamarine, teal, baby blue, royal & cobalt which bring soothing yet sophisticated harmonies to apparel.

Euphoria is inspired by brilliant colors, fluorescent touches, fantasy and exotic florals, iridescent effect and sequins and
Blossom Dearie includes delicate florals, chiffons & organzas, powdery & pastel tints, fresh petals.

SERIDE

TROFICOLOR DENIM MAKERS

The new Troficolor collection promotes reuse, giving new life to timeless fabrics from previous collections, avoiding textile waste and new productions. Sustainable fibres such as BCI cotton, GOTS / OCS organic cotton, GRS / RCS recycled cotton and polyester, Tencel TM , Linen and Hemp are offered. A range of Tencel TM articles, light and fluid as Linen/Hemp articles, fresh and versatile, and ECRU fabrics comes in natural colour without dyeing. Complemented by a line of quilted and jacquard look items with designs suitable for different styles.

TROFICOLOR DENIM MAKERS

ÜNLÜ GROUP

Ünlü Group Textiles is a Turkish fabric mill focusing on creative and fancy fabrics for innovative brands. Having textile designers, surface designers and
trend analysts in house, they follow the macro and micro trends in the world closely and create new perspectives for our customers by synthesizing different types of fabrics, printing techniques and designs.

ÜNLÜ GROUP

WKS CIFRA

WarpKnitSeamless Knitwear goes Fashion: Milan based warp knit seamless (WKS) specialist Cifra will be presenting its exclusive Urban Panorama Project which matches the performance and comfort of sports derived from WKS technology to daily wear style. Clothing is increasingly shifting towards sportswear by absorbing its technicality and versatility and WKS projects originates from a deep expertise in the sports and athleisure world supported by a high design content. Discover the WKS CIFRA innovations at the Hellmann Textiles booth.

WKS CIFRA

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Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 V

Fabrics Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part

9. May 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

PROFILO SRL

Under the flag of Made in Italy, PROFILO SRL is constantly researching new trends to offer material solutions for global tendencies. Their collections offer sustainable qualities such as GOTS, OCS and recycled fibres as cotton and linen mixes of functional yarns. The selection of raw materials is the first step in obtaining the best quality fabrics that are transformed into beautiful collections for mens- & womenswear.

PROFILO SRL

PROFILO TESSILE

The new Profilo Tessile SS24 collection takes a distance from the dogmas of the past. The longing for light-heartedness, novelty, and change is yearning. Soft shades and pastel colors are combined together with a more linear appeal and aesthetics. Light ground fabrics and textured stripes meets modern fibers and a pleasant-to-touch hand feel. The slub looks play down the more rigorous graphics.

PROFILIO TESSILE

PROJECT SRL

A combination of bright, neutral, pastel and intense colors inspired by the digital world: the new PROJECT SRL collection is defined by the use of organic and recycled fibers which create essential and sinuous designs. Fluidity and soft lines, technology and craftsmanship, the natural that blends with the active giving space to comfort and elegant casual styles are brought together in the new Spring. Summer 24 collection from PROJECT SRL.

PROJECT

RESOTEX

Resotex stands for upcycling with style and competence! For over 30 years, they have been the leading B2B wholesaler for overproduction. They buy up remnants of well-known brands and currently offer over 8,000 fabrics that are immediately available from stock. Approximately 30 new ones are added daily. Available from just 1 metre and 50€ net per order are coat fabrics, virgin wool, jerseys, jacquards, boucles, denim, viscose and cotton fabrics, bridal and evening fabrics, silk and many more.

RESOTEX

ROTA TEKSTIL

With top-notch natural cottons, flashy viscons, outstanding lyocell developments and warm designs with jacquards and foil prints, Rota presents the SS24 collection, which brings the woven fabrics to the top level with a significant focus on sustainability.

ROTA TEKSTIL

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by Chantal Graeff