Further information about the upcoming shows for 2020 can be found here.

VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION: 14. – 15. July 2020

MUNICH FABRIC START: 1. – 3. September 2020

BLUEZONE: 1. – 2. September 2020

Simon Angel has been the curator of the Sustainable Innovations Area in the KEYHOUSE since 2018. For the Munich Fabric Start fair, he is looking for exciting young designers, extraordinary innovations and new perspectives from the textile world. Register now to attend Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE.

Simon, what Sustainable Innovations can we look forward to this season?

Each season, we try to present textile tendencies and new materials to inspire and broaden the context, techniques, meaning and value of textile related topics. Our goal is to show a glimpse of a possible future, so the industry and its professionals can use it to get to the next level. It is a constant dialogue. We are a community, growing and connecting together, sharing visions and ideas – it’s an inspiring atmosphere.

This edition of Munich Fabric Start’s Sustainable Innovations is a prime example to this approach – not only in respect to the responsibility held as a textile fair but also from the attitude and perspectives of the designer’s present. You see their visions in sound-created and laser print work. You feel their ideas in the provocative perspective that plastic is part of our natural landscape. And in the concept that ditching seams can lead to new manufacturing techniques and design approaches. But also, in revaluing materials like sisal and paper and the use of core natural elements like milk, starch and salt-crystals. I am positive that these projects will start a dialogue we can all learn from.

Again and again, the fear of the future, the consequences of environmental pollution and climate change emerge in the curated works. Challenge or opportunity, what do you think?

Your question shows that we are all still at very different stages in the process. Some people are aware and concerned about the transformations our environment is facing. Some are becoming aware of the changes and starting to value what still is. Others are reacting with action, ready to change the game. Specifically that we all have different point of views – with even more concerns to consider. So, there is not one dialogue, there are hundreds. There is not one solution, there is – as I refer to it – a chain of change happening on all levels. Therefore, I there is no “or” in between, instead it is an “and”: We have challenges AND opportunities. All of the designers offer opportunities through different approaches and create change, as challenging as it is.

The use of potato starch, old printing methods and traditional Korean craftsmanship – one could almost say that “back to the roots” is the motto of the upcoming season. Posing the question, where does this development come from?

As designers are digging deeper, they often rediscover historic production processes and design principles, that make sense in the now as well. “We learn from history that we never learn from history”, a quote of a dear friend of mine. Now I learn that there are two meanings to this. The project of Caterina Tiolo is a good example for how changing the order of an old process can lead to totally new approaches – design and material wise. The development of redefining traditional processes and ingredients is really exciting. Or look at “Consumption of heritage” by Lee Sun: She uses traditional crafts and simple materials like paper in a modern fashion context and in that way values her heritage. So yes, if “back to the roots” to you means “revitalise tradition and values”, it is certainly a dominant development.

You are curating the Sustainable Innovations for the fifth time this season. What has changed?

From my perspective, it is not working on changes – we are working on this as a journey. I see many strong developments and tendencies and they are driven by dedicated professionals. Not only business and money-driven but instead also by values. I see that the industry is working on becoming a better version of itself. Feeling a glimpse of shared responsibility between designers, manufacturers, press and media, I am very optimistic. In the end it is all about the perfect couple: quality and consciousness.

2020 – a new decade begins. Looking to the future: how do you think the interplay of sustainability and textiles will develop?

As optimistic as I may sound – the more research I do in the field of textiles and fashion, it all comes down to our individual responsibilities: our behaviours as a human, existing as a consumer in this economic system. The causality of change has two central elements to start with: demand and supply. We have to stop putting ‘the good’ into a colonial and capitalistic context as from the early start of textile history to the fashion world of the now: The more we are aware and the more we share, together we can make this a great journey. Let’s take this chance and restore the enthusiasm to this economic world. Let’s thrive!

Visit Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE on February 4-6 2020 in Munich.

Tejidos Royo is the engine of the current Industrial Textile Revolution with the development of Dry Indigo® technology. After 11 years of research, in collaboration with Gastón Systems Inc. and Indigo Mill Designs (IMD), they have managed to modify the conventional Indigo dyeing process, eliminating water consumption. Dry Indigo® uses foam for application. Thanks to this, they use 0% of water in the process, totally eliminating the discharge of wastewater, reduce energy use by 65% ​​and 89% of chemical products. An ECO-TECHNOLOGY certified by AITEX (2019AP0053).

Thanks to this innovation, Tejidos Royo was able to launch the One Million Liters project. A revolutionary initiative with a clear concept: donate 1 million liters of water saved thanks to the Dry Indigo system to social causes that need this resource to live. In 2019, the first million liters saved were delivered to UNICEF. For 2020 their goal was to involve the industry and consumers through an international competition, inviting them to choose the cause to donate the second million liters. In January 2020, the winner will be revealed.

One Million Liters Now Has a Beneficiary

Two months after its launch, the One Million Liters initiative now has a beneficiary, the Chakaka Primary School in Benga, Malawi. The school’s nearest well is 500 metres away, and the amount of water it provides is not enough for the more than 1,500 boys and girls at the school, as the well it is shared with a large local community.

The project aims to resolve these problems by drilling a new well and installing a pump that ensures a permanent supply of drinking water at the school. As a result, the school will have all the water it needs for drinking and cooking, as well as to clean the classrooms, toilets and kitchens, thereby improving hygiene and sanitation which is necessary in order to prevent the spread of diseases.

This is the culmination of Tejidos Royo’s first initiative to raise awareness of how changing one part of the manufacturing process not only makes a big difference to the industry but also contributes to a good cause. Dry Indigo® is a great milestone in this regard and Tejidos Royo hope that it will inspire both the sector and brands in the development of technologies that contribute to making our industry much more responsible with the environment.

Visit Tejidos Royo at BLUEZONE on February 4 – 5 2020 in Munich.

Spain – Hall 6 | C03

From the 3^rd – 4^th December 2019, VIEW Premium Selection will showcase the first material developments, qualities and colour tendencies for the new SPRING.SUMMER 2021 season a few weeks prior to MUNICH FABRIC START. TEXCART, TEJIDOS ROYO, LANIFICIO ROMA, DUTEL CREATION and BORNEMANN ETIKETTEN are among our exhibitors who will join the expanded presentation of sustainable fabrics and accessories showcased at VIEW:

What does it mean to your company to take more responsibility in terms of micro plastic and overconsumption?

TEXCART: It has been our focus for the last 5 years, starting with the materials we use on a daily basis; boxes, envelopes, general use paper, collection boards, stickers, where possible these are made in recycled paper and recycled material. In terms of over consumption, we care about enacting change and so we typically produce our articles on demand to reduce leftovers.

TEJIDOS ROYO: With the pioneering DryIndigo® technology developed by Spanish manufacturer Tejidos Royo, it is now possible to use 0% water in the denim production process. This is a real milestone in the textile industry. It also reduces energy consumption by 65% during manufacture, uses 89% less chemical products, and completely eliminates waste water discharge. As a result of implementing DryIndigo® technology in 2019, Tejidos Royo has saved more than 1 million litres of water used in denim dyeing. The economic contribution from the first million litters saved has been donated to UNICEF for its water and sanitation programmes which improve the lives of thousands of children around the world.

DUTEL: For the last 2 years, Dutel has been developing a sustainable range called ‘PURE’ which uses recycled polyester warp and organic cotton weft yarns. We plan to swap all our polyester warps into recycled ones. The challenge is to make an entirely sustainable collection and to source the serious reliable suppliers with traceability. For years we have collected and recycled any waste in our factory. As well, a new air conditioning system has considerably reduced our electricity consumption.

BORNEMANN: Besides providing sustainable labelling solutions for our customers, we aim to optimize our internal processes as well. By digitalizing our documentation, working on rapid prototyping and investing an increasing amount of time and effort in digital sampling we are reducing input of resources on various levels.

Tell us about the latest collection you are exhibiting at VIEW?

TEXCART: Our collection, as usual, will be complex and composed of several articles produced in a variety of materials, techniques and designs. We have prepared different themes which follow the tendencies but also in sustainable and recycled materials and as always we will feature a range of denim accessories. We are continuously updated in terms of tendencies, new techniques and materials, especially in sustainable and eco-friendly news through our large network of professional partners.

LANIFICIO ROMA: At Lanificio Roma we are sensitive to the use of recycled yarns, many fabrics of the latest collection are eco-sustainable. The qualities in our eco-cotton and viscose ECOVERO are made with sustainable yarns.

DUTEL: Summer 2021 by this jacquard specialist makes the most of shiny effects on vibrant, crunchy surfaces. Taffeta and voile grounds are enriched with transparent shines with a cellophane crunch. The colour palette is built on whites and pearly whites. Surfaces are covered with iridescent yarns to create hairy effects. Lightweight, cotton-like jacquards are lit up with a pearly sheen, patterns resonate thanks to colourfully iridescent yarns. Filigree or bold florals paired with bright stripes are enhanced with a colourful gleam.

BORNEMANN: We present our latest developments for Women/Menswear Denim, Modern Casual and Workwear. The challenge of workwear lies in combining fashion and function, materials need to fulfil certain standard specifications. Among other items, we are showing several flame-retardant products, woven, printed and silicon that stand up to current norms.

Shop less, waste less, produce less. What are the biggest challenges for you to continue to be successful and sustainable?

TEJIDOS ROYO: In the textile industry, we need to rework our processes to become a much more sustainable industry. DryIndigo is a major milestone in this area, and we hope that it inspires both the sector and the brands to develop more technologies that contribute to making our industry a much more responsible one towards our surroundings. We are facing the sustainable denim revolution and, with One Million Liters, we want everyone to take part in it so that, together, we can meet the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals before 2030.

LANIFICIO ROMA: We produce recycled raw material fabrics to offer significant benefits to our planet. We have created a new product with reduced water consumption, in order to fight the effects of the increase in pollution and excessive consumption. Our aim is to waste less and re-use production and consumer waste as new resources.

DUTEL: Our target is to offer top quality which is lasting over the years, especially for our ‘ALLURE‘ range which offer timeless, subtle textures and enlarges our offer for different customers types such as accessories, scarves, shoes, hats, but also kidswear. Produce less? No! To guarantee our business’ survival, we cannot produce less, but more instead offer more variety. Not to produce less, but produce better!

BORNEMANN: Balancing creativity, sustainability and efficiency seems to be the biggest challenge. In our day to day, this means we have to cooperate closely with our customers to understand their priorities. And, in the long run, work towards a situation where none of the three aspects are in conflict with each other. Digitalisation has a big impact on this, so mastering the challenges of digitalisation is our priority as a company.

Inspired by artisanal tradition in Italy, Officina+39 is an innovative chemical company based in Bella, Italy. It is the result of 30 years of experience in research and chemical application in the textile sector. Officina+39 focuses on the development and implementation of new and sustainable ideas for the denim industry and environmentally friendly dyeing processes.

Officina means workshop in Italian, but it also stands for passion, innovation, sustainable practices, transparency and social responsibility. Looking to the future, the company combines tradition with modern products and technologies. Their latest process developments will be presented on the 3rd to the 5th of September at KEYHOUSE.

TRUSTAINABLE™: Respect and commitment become an ethical mindset. In production control, Officina+39 ensures the use of less hazardous chemicals, minimizing the impact of surrounding environments, recycling waste, reducing power usage and water conservation. Officina+39 sees one of the greatest challenges in creating transparency. That’s what TRUSTAINABLE ™ stands for.

NEBUDYE is an innovative process used in combination with selected dyes to create original vintage colouring. This makes NEBUDYE one of the world’s first waterless dyeing processes with the nebulization systems. So far, only a non-uniform appearance was possible with the fogging systems (comparable to the cold pigmentation CPD). NEBUDYE opens up new possibilities in textile dyeing technology. NEBUDYE guarantees a perfect penetration into the garments and ensures a uniform vintage style.

SMART BLEACH: Water-saving bleaching technology

SMART BLEACH is an innovative bleaching technology for Nebulization systems. This innovative technology was specially developed to replace the traditional chlorine (or potassium permanganate) used in denim bleaching in washing machines. By using SMART BLEACH with misting systems, it is possible to bleach indigo denim and black denim to reduce water consumption by 90%.
SMART BLEACH can be used in combination with NOVASTONE NEBU, a new enzyme certified by Novozymes DeniSafe®, which ensures the safe use of enzymes in new low-pressure washing machines with mist technology. SMART BLEACH can also be done with a new biodegradable REDUCER KM ECO neutralizer.

Tejidos Royo are longstanding exhibitors at our BLUEZONE Denim Trade Show as well as VIEW Premium Selection and now they will be among the first to present their sustainable fabrics with ReSOURCE at VIEW.

How important is it to you, to present your new products at VIEW Premium Selection?

VIEW & MUNICH FABRIC START means quality and efficiency. Always thinking about the future, these fairs are constantly changing with the sole objective of satisfying the needs of the exhibitors and visitors. At Tejidos Royo we share this philosophy, and we are also aware of the relevance that both the VIEW fair and Munich Fabric Start have in Germany for the textile sector. We have been betting for this fair for many years, due to the importance that the German market has for Tejidos Royo.
Our goal is that the fabrics presented in each edition, serve as a source of inspiration for visitors. This new AW 20/21 collection has SUSTAINABILITY and the use of the most advanced technology in the development of fabrics as main characteristics, together with an exceptional quality of finish.

Sustainability is not just a trend. Please tell us how intensely you are working on this topic right now?

NSustainability has been imposed as the only recipe to counteract the ecological crisis of the planet. For many critics, sustainability is for the fashion industry a facelift. But the change is not only in a “green washing” rather the change comes from a complete revolution of all the production processes of a company.
The buying trend among consumers is changing. The consumer no longer only looks for price, quality, speed, exclusivity, etc. but among its purchasing decisions is the sustainability and social-environmental commitment of the company. The term ‘Sustainability’ in the private sector is escalating as a strategic priority. It is not just about selling more products to more people. It is about limited resources, climate change, over-population which challenge innovation to make more competitive products.
Tejidos Royo, aware of the seriousness of the situation, continues to guide the textile industry towards this new era of sustainability and the protection of human rights throughout the value chain by innovative solutions.

“Our goal is to give the market the best product without permanent harmful effects for the future.”

The trajectory of Tejidos Royo is marked by the development of leading-edge sustainable techniques in the industrial process.

Today Tejidos Royo is a pioneer in the development of a unique process in the world, capable of dyeing indigo without using water. This process, developed together with Gastón Company and IMD- and denominated DRY INDIGO®, gets the requirements to be considered an eco-sustainable technology to Indigo Yarn Dyeing process with Zero Consumption and Zero Discharge of Water, to Process Certified by AITEX.

How does this influence the future of your company?

We are aware of the effort we are making in terms of investment, but also that, if we do not act, we will end the planet. Our continuous search for sustainable solutions throughout the value chain influences us in a positive way and gives us the peace of mind that we are on the right track. The mentality of the textile sector is changing. It is a slow process, but both, manufacturers, brands and consumers are adapting to this new way of creating and consuming fashion that is increasingly sustainable and beneficial in all aspects, by and for the common good. A new way of doing things has arrived and we are firmly committed to it.

Please highlight some of the sustainable products visitors will find in your upcoming collections at VIEW Premium Selection and MUNICH FABRIC START.

DRY INDIGO® The future of sustainable denim, IS NOW
Tejidos Royo, together with Gaston and Imd, has developed the Dry Indigo® technology, a dyeing process which is unique in the world. This certified and guaranteed technology under the ECO – TECHNOLOGY by AITEX (textile research institute) allows to dye indigo yarn with zero water in dyeing process, 89% less chemicals, 65% reduced energy usage and also zero water discharge. In addition to being the most sustainable dyeing technology in the market today, our Dry Indigo® registered brand offers this features in the fabric:

• Intense Cast (Indigo intense hue)
• Multi Cast Wash-down (being a superficial dyeing, it allows very sharp contrasts)
• Very versatile fabric to laser processing

ROYO has the exclusive right of this unique technology worldwide.

REBOOT LINE “Recycled PFD fabrics”
This fabric is the first sportswear recycled fabric in PFD (Prepared For Dye), characterized by premium quality and regular finishes that solves “the big problem” of the presence of foreign fibers in the spinning and dyeing process of recycled sportswear fabrics. Its most outstanding features are:

• Recycled Pre-consumer
• Non foreign fibers and clean look
• Same look and hand-feel of conventional fine cottons

RECYCLED DENIM FABRICS
We support the shift towards an efficient and traceable economy in the use of resources, an upcycling strategy of responsible product based, fundamentally, on the use of pre and post-consumer textile waste “close the loop” to manufacture new fabrics improving their benefits. All through the circular process. All items containing more than 20% recycled material have the international external guarantee “Global Recycled Standard” (GRS), which strengthens the credibility of all the products we obtain.

“We have the opportunity to reduce the consumption of natural resources and guarantee an optimum quality.”