Munich Fabric Start

MUNICH FABRIC START - September 25 closing report

MUNICH FABRIC START as focal point for the industry

CLOSING REPORT
MUNICH FABRIC START | BLUEZONE | KEYHOUSE | THE SOURCE

4. September 2025

Solid trade show results: At its 56th edition, MUNICH FABRIC START reinforced its clear positioning. Over two days, the Munich textile trade show brought the fashion industry together with its four show-in-show formats. The concept of presenting the international denim trade show BLUEZONE and the innovation hub KEYHOUSE together with MUNICH FABRIC START and THE SOURCE under one roof at the MOC Munich was a success.

“We draw a positive conclusion: the closer integration of our trade show formats has achieved the desired effect – MUNICH FABRIC START, with its show-in-shows, promotes networking between different market segments and is becoming a hub for the textile industry. In these times, inspiring formats such as KEYHOUSE and SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS are more important than ever. In conjunction with our comprehensive portfolio of international manufacturers from all fashion segments, the mood was positive despite the current market environment. The trade show has sent out an important signal.“

Florian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH

Last Tuesday and Wednesday, designers, buyers, key decision-makers and leading industry experts gathered in Munich. In a market environment that remains tense, MUNICH FABRIC START presented a broad portfolio of over 600 international exhibitors with around 1,200 collections from all areas of the textile industry. Coupled with a high degree of innovation and inspiration, the trade show’s role as an important industry meeting place for the textile industry was recognised by both, visitors and exhibitors.

“The current trade show is going well, better than in January in my opinion. The market situation is tense, which makes it even more important that the mood at the show is good. Everyone we expected was there, including Alberto, Armedangels, Drykorn and Oui, for example,“ says Simon Leppich, Managing Director of Nilörn Germany.

“The trade show has gone really well so far. Many of our existing customers were there and lots of new customers were also interested in our fake furs. It’s really working in our favour that fake fur is such a big topic at the moment. We are showcasing brand new furs that are 100% bio-based. They are going down well.“ says Aylin Aksu, Sales Agent at Ecopel.

Speaking on behalf of many visitors, Adrian Runhof, Artistic & Managing Director of Talbot Runhof, sums it up: “We find everything we’re looking for and lots of new things, too. As always, MUNICH FABRIC START is well organised. The Trend Area is very inspiring. We’re looking for new textures and fabrics that fit into our range. Bottom line: very nice! Everything is tip-top.“

KEYHOUSE & SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS: Cutting Edge Technology

Bridging the gap between groundbreaking concepts and scalable, market-ready solutions – that was the focus of the KEYHOUSE innovation hub and SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS area, newly located in the highly frequented Hall 2 at the MOC. In conjunction with an impressive supporting programme featuring almost 50 events and over 40 international experts, concentrated expertise met innovative approaches and forward-looking new technologies. Circular economy, digitalisation, compliance, materials research, sustainable innovations and new approaches to sourcing through long-term partnerships and strategic collaborations were presented and discussed here over two days. “Fashion isn’t broken – it was designed that way,” says Muchaneta ten Napel, policy advisor and founder of Shape Innovate. Her Roadmap 2035 is a wake-up call for anyone who has not yet addressed circularity and a transparent supply chain. “Fashion and technology have never been the best of friends. But we must not lose focus – we need disruption to drive real improvement. It has never been easier than it is today to use technology to address pain points,” says Güneri Tuğcu of CNCT by r-pac. Nikita Raman, Senior Denim Designer at Hugo Boss, emphasised the importance of genuine collaboration: “It’s a win-win situation when suppliers and brands work together and enter into long-term partnerships.” “Growing as a brand while reducing our dependence on virgin materials and our environmental footprint – that’s when we are successful. This is the strategy we are pursuing at Tommy Hilfiger,” summarises Thijs Maartens, Vice President of Sustainability at Tommy Hilfiger. Simon Angel, curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS at MUNICH FABRIC START, is thrilled that a new phase has begun: “The motto for this season is: ’We will get the right answers if we ask the right questions.’ And these are exactly the questions being asked. For the first time, I feel that designers are reaching a new level – the aspiration to do things right – and are thus also finding their way into large companies.”

BLUEZONE: „Business as unusual“ – Denim in Transition

“Business as unusual – that is the new motto.” This is how BLUEZONE curator Panos Sofianos opened the panel discussion, where key players in the denim industry discussed the future of the sector. “Those who wait will be too late. Since I started working in the industry, there have never been easy times for denim. The solution is not to react, but to anticipate what is coming and act in good time,” says Dr. Dilek Erik, Global Marketing Manager at Sharabati Denim. “I travel around the world a lot. The denim market seems to be shrinking – but it continues to grow in the USA and Asia. Competition in Europe is different. Our response to this is to invest in innovation and sustainability. At the same time, we are trying to attract more lifestyle and luxury brands instead of chains. This is how we secure our existence, especially in Europe. BLUEZONE is an important platform for this – and panels like this one are crucial,” explains Levent Bozgeyik, International Marketing Manager, Iskur Denim.

There were numerous examples of these solutions at BLUEZONE – pioneering technologies, environmentally friendly dyeing methods and functional innovation from fibre to finish were the predominant themes of the approximately 40 international denim mills that presented their latest developments for denim and sportswear. For example, Tejidos Royo showcased the first fabric made from 100% pre-consumer recycled cotton, dyed with DRY Indigo, while ISKO presented its new circular concept, RECODE DENIM.

In times of global uncertainty, it is important to strengthen one’s roots and team spirit. To this end, BLUEZONE in Munich has launched a new format. From now on, ‘HOMEGROWN DENIM LEGENDS’ will focus on influential denim personalities and brands from the DACH region. The series kicked off with Erwin O. Licher, founder of three German denim labels, as well as historical insights from Levi’s founder Loeb Strauss and Ruedi Karrer’s vintage collection. Heritage and new technology – these two opposites were also highlighted by denim icon Adriano Goldschmied in conversation with Thomas Leary, co-founder and sales manager of Baytech Sustainable Technologies, together with Sofia Strazzanti, founder and CEO of Future Fashion Assembly.

The new location of BLUEZONE in the centre of the MOC in Hall 2 was received with mixed reactions. The opportunities for new synergies and closer integration with the fashion industry were recognised and have already been exploited in many cases. “Germany is our strongest market. We develop special innovations such as Comfort Stretch for this market. We also maintain very good partnerships with German brands. That’s why I can say that our business is not only stable – it is getting stronger from season to season,” says Ibrahim Ethem Buyukpepe, Acting General Manager at Calik Denim. At the same time, some missed the unique denim vibe of the Zenith Hall. “We felt more comfortable at the old location – I miss the denim soul a little here. But at the end of the day, customers find us here too. We present our main collection with a lot of heritage as well as new authentic styles, new basics and unusual designs. We always develop our own collection for the German market. With stretch, lighter fabrics and a soft feel, we hit the mark. That’s why we’re always fully booked at BLUEZONE,” says B. Hande Yildirim, Sales Chief at Bossa. “At BLUEZONE we saw some great authentic washes. In general, there are lots of new developments. Because of the late timing, the trade show is more of a meet & greet for us. It’s a good place to work and to follow up on topics. What we do miss, however, is the atmosphere of the old BLUEZONE,” summarises Sandi Lambertz, Head of Design Denim von Mac Moden.

Ubiquitous – the trends for Autumn.Winter 26/27

With its theme “RIGHT HERE RIGHT NOW”, MUNICH FABRIC START Autumn.Winter 26/27 puts the spotlight on the present. The five major fashion trends for the coming season reflect the complexity of the zeitgeist. “Conversant” combines reinterpreted dress codes and heritage aesthetics with American sportswear. “At Ease” stands for comfort, clarity and minimalist elegance. “Night Call” brings subversive club culture with futuristic glamour. “Untamed” focuses on closeness to nature, robust materials and folkloric patterns, while “Elite” showcases luxurious styles between neo-dandyism and opulent material mixes. The trends at MUNICH FABRIC START provided important input for designers, buyers and product managers for their own research and purchasing decisions. “The trend forums are always very inspiring. There is a great variety in fabrics and fancies – from sequins to shine and structure. This versatility brings refreshing diversity. The many earthy, warm tones create real anticipation for autumn. At the DESIGN STUDIOS we discovered some fantastic patterns, with a striking number of animal prints,” says Theresa Link, Team Lead Graphic Design of Bonita. Simone Pilger, Product Manager of Raabe Fashion Group, focuses on checks and furs: “This is a huge theme – and we found a good selection for this here at the show. The trend forums once again confirmed that we are focusing on the right colour and material trends: brown, red, caramel – generally warm tones in new combinations. We are less inclined towards mint.”

Thomas Nick Müller, owner of the Max Müller agency, sees a trend towards special features:  “Customers are looking for more specialities. The days when everything was grey and beige are over. Instead, new winter colours are coming in designs, tone-on-tone checks, jacquards and plain fabrics, but always with texture. The surfaces must not be too flat; mouliné yarns are important. Our customers were there, but it must also be said that if there used to be 100 back in the days, now there are perhaps 30.” Drykorn would have liked to see more highlights: “We are a German company and are delighted to have a German trade show, which we always enjoy supporting. This is where we do our bread and butter business and we found everything we needed here. We would like to see more highlights in the collections. We have grown because we are bold, not because we are cautious. We need more cherries on top,” says Fred Götz, Creative Director Menswear and Interior Design at Drykorn. There was plenty of time for networking and informal conversations at get-togethers held to celebrate Herrlicher’s anniversary and the launch of the new HOMEGROWN DENIM LEGENDS format at BLUEZONE, as well as at The Fashion Grid’s happy hour and MUNICH FABRIC START’s MUNIQUE APÉRO, which attracted around 1,300 guests.

After two days, MUNICH FABRIC START closed with visitor numbers stable compared to last year. Visitors included designers, product managers, buyers and company bosses from numerous European and international brands such as adidas, A Kind of Guise, Alberto, Alpha Tauri, Anna van Toor, Another Brand, Armedangels, Atelier Gardeur, Balenciaga, Bestsecret, Betty Barclay, Black Palms, BMW, Bogner, Brax, bugatti, C&A, Calzedonia, Camel Active, Cinque, Closed, Comma, Digel, Drykorn, Dubarry of Ireland, Escada, Fynch-Hatton, Gerry Weber, Guido Maria Kretschmer, Hanro, Herrlicher, Hessnatur, Holy Fashion Group, HSE, Hugo Boss, IB Company, JOOP!, Lagerfeld, Lanius, Lodenfrey, Luisa Cerano, MAC, Marc Aurel, Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, Mercedes Benz, Mey, More & More, NKD, Olymp, OUI, Peek & Cloppenburg, Porsche, Riani, Roeckl, s.Oliver, Schöffel, Seidensticker, Sportalm, Sportscheck, Strellson, Summum, Talbot Runhof, Tommy Hilfiger, Toni Dress, Westwing, Windsor and Zero. Visitors came from 54 countries, mainly from Italy, the Netherlands, Belgium, Turkey, Czechia, Poland, Greece, Spain, Portugal and Scandinavia, in addition to Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The trade show dates were the subject of intense discussion among both visitors and exhibitors. The organisers are considering bringing forward MUNICH FABRIC START for Autumn.Winter 27/28 from September to mid/late July 2026. Further details will be announced in the coming weeks. What is certain is that the upcoming edition for Spring.Summer 27 will run for three days from 27 to 29 January 2026.

Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:

BLUEZONE

27/01 – 29/01/2026

www.bluezone.show

MUNICH FABRIC START

27/01 – 29/01/2026

www.munichfabricstart.com

VIEW

02/12 – 03/12/2025

www.viewmunich.com

by Chantal Graeff

Wetlands Matters – by Marc Wijkmans

Wetlands Matters – by Marc Wijkmans

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS

29. August 2025

In the Netherlands, where land and water are always at odds with each other, design often has to work with ecology. Marc Wijkmans Studio “Wetlands” takes this conversation into textiles, treating fabrics not as neutral surfaces but as active participants that can help landscapes grow.

Wijkman’s idea came from a simple but important observation: animals carry seeds across ecosystems in their fur. He made a fabric that purposely catches and spreads seeds by imitating this natural process. The material is made of wool, sodium alginate, and linseed oil, and it doesn’t have the smooth, perfect look of regular fabrics. Instead, its value comes from its flaws, how it can get stuck, carry things, and help the process of re-wilding continue. This approach goes against what people think about outdoor clothing.

“Seeds stick to fur. Building on this, I came up with the idea to give the material a fur-like surface.” 
Marc Wijkmans

Making the material

As most of us know, performance fabrics today are largely synthetic-engineered to be strong and water-resistant, yet infamous for shedding microplastics. Wetlands Matters challenges this conventional notion of “functionality.” Here, performance is redefined: not about keeping people dry, but about serving the ecological needs of a site.

Tested in the Hemelrijkse Waard nature reserve, the textile demonstrates that protection can be mutual – between wearer and landscape. From this emerges a clear lesson for the fashion and textile industries: materials must be rethought entirely. What if fabrics were designed to collaborate with their surroundings rather than resist them? What if impermanence and biodegradability were not flaws, but essential virtues for a sustainable future?

All in all, Wetlands Matters doesn’t say that it has a solution that is ready to sell. It works as a provocation instead: a reminder that the future of textiles may be less about how long they last and how well they work in the narrow sense and more about how they can help landscapes grow quietly and steadily.

H2 | SI

Repairing the material

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by Chantal Graeff

MUNICH FABRIC START September 2025 - Outlook

MUNICH FABRIC START with a strong portfolio

MUNICH FABRIC START | BLUEZONE | KEYHOUSE | THE SOURCE

29. August 2025

The countdown is on: in just three weeks, Munich will once again become the epicentre of the European fashion and textile industry. During the first week of September, MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH will unite all key fashion segments under one roof, reaffirming its position as one of Europe’s leading textile trade shows.

On September 2 and 3, 2025, the international denim trade show BLUEZONE and the innovation hub KEYHOUSE will, for the first time, be staged alongside MUNICH FABRIC START and THE SOURCE at the MOC Munich. This powerful combination consolidates the event’s role as a central platform for the industry, offering a comprehensive one-stop sourcing solution for designers, product managers, and fashion professionals.

With around 1,200 collections from approximately 600 international fabric and accessories manufacturers, MUNICH FABRIC START promises a highly inspiring and business‑focused edition – setting the tone for the trends and innovations shaping the seasons ahead.

“MUNICH FABRIC START stands for diversity and quality at the highest level, thanks to a strong line-up of international manufacturers from every fashion segment. Together, global networking, fresh ideas from innovative collaborations, and creative technologies are driving the industry forward. The deeper integration of our formats ensures that inspiration and progress become the standard. Creating real momentum for the sector. We invite everyone to experience and help shape this new dynamic.“ 

Florian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH

For the coming event, Europe’s leading textile trade show is set to unveil exciting new developments: from pioneering colour and material trends for Autumn.Winter 26/27, through to new and returning international exhibitors from the textile, accessories, equipment, and sourcing segments, all the way to a highly informative edutainment programme, featuring leading industry experts discussing today’s key market topics.

The programme for MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE includes numerous lectures, panel discussions and workshops. Detailed information on keynotes, panel discussions and lectures is updated daily and can be found here:

CHECK THE LECTURE PROGRAM & EVENTS

Internationality: From Local Production to Global Collaboration

Internationality is one of the central focus topics of the upcoming MUNICH FABRIC START. The German Agency for International Cooperation (GIZ) will embark on its Textile & Apparel Roadshow and, under the banner “Sourcing in Africa”, present the diversity of African textile expertise at a joint stand. Represented will be ten companies from Egypt, Ethiopia, Ghana, Morocco and Senegal as well as three institutions and industry associations, including AMITH, AMDIE from Morocco and the Chamber of Apparel and Home Textile from Egypt. On the same topic, the Centre for the Promotion of Imports from Developing Countries (CBI) – an initiative of the Dutch government – will also be on site. CBI will showcase three innovative companies presenting their fabric and apparel collections developed as part of the project “Egypt Textiles in Transition”. Aiming to highlight top-tier craftsmanship “Made in Italy”, the Manifattura Italia initiative connects fashion brands directly with Italian apparel manufacturers — with the ambition of ushering in a new era of local production along the entire value chain. “Where else could this be achieved at the highest level, if not in Italy?” the initiative proclaims.

Manifattura Italia

Team Spirit: Collaborations Driving Innovation, Sustainability and Networking

Numerous collaborations between industry, research institutes and universities at MUNICH FABRIC START once again highlight the importance of forward-thinking together in order to advance the fashion industry in a sustainable way. Upcycling meets high-tech embroidery: The Sigmaringen Fashion School, in cooperation with Mountek, Gunold and Reiner Knochel, is hosting an interactive upcycling project. From design and the selection of fabrics and yarns through to production on a high-tech embroidery machine, visitors can create their own individual patches from fabric scraps and vintage denim – live on site. MFS X The Fabric Connector Pilot: This season marks the first collaboration between MUNICH FABRIC START and The Fabric Connector. In a joint pilot project in the RESOURCE Area, visitors will be supported in making more sustainable sourcing decisions through expert advice, information, and a new impact measurement tool. Pioneering biotextiles for the future: BIOTEXFUTURE will present three selected research projects at the upcoming MUNICH FABRIC START – BioCushion, bioPEtex and CircWool. These projects focus on recyclable instead of oil-based spacer fabrics, bio-based polyethylene as a new raw material for the apparel industry, and a novel solvent-based recycling technology for wool waste, enabling its reintegration into the textile cycle. Industry partners involved include adidas AG, Falke KGaA, ORTOVOX Sportartikel GmbH and zwissTEX Germany.

Biopetex

The Fabric Connector

CircWool

Innovation Factor: Textile – Material and Product Novelties

The Autumn.Winter 26/27 season is defined by the theme “RIGHT HERE RIGHT NOW” – reflecting the search for orientation, credibility, and identity in times of uncertainty. As familiar certainties begin to waver and trust in established structures is shaken, “RIGHT HERE RIGHT NOW” calls on the industry to actively embrace the moment, understand the current zeitgeist, and sharpen awareness for profound transformation across the sector. The guiding theme encourages a focused perception of the present, inviting professionals to engage with the sweeping changes and opportunities that are shaping the world of textiles and fashion right now.

Highlights at MUNICH FABRIC START: New Product Developments

Among the innovations showcased at MUNICH FABRIC START are Smartcel, an antibacterial, breathable material with UV protection, and Seacell, a biodegradable fibre containing seaweed, known for its exceptional softness and skin-friendly properties. Bloomati by Carvema Têxtil focuses on essential comfort, reinterpreted with smart textures and refined classics such as jersey, fleece, rib and piqué. Elissa Stampa makes a strong statement with bold floral prints and vibrant colour worlds, while 6Dias presents fabrics made from innovative, sustainable fibres like orange, mint or pineapple. In the ADDITIONALS section, Studio 9’s “Quarter” collection combines tactile appeal, technology and design in trims and introduces a digital product passport featuring NFC and QR code technology – offering greater transparency along the supply chain.

Bloomati by Carvema Textil

New Location: BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE in Hall 2

For the upcoming edition, BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE will be located in the high‑traffic area of MUNICH FABRIC START at the MOC in Hall 2. This means that the Denim Trade Show and the Innovation Hub will now be situated at the very heart of the MOC, directly connected to the ADDITIONALS and FABRICS areas. Completing the comprehensive trade show offering are the DESIGN STUDIOS, RESOURCE, THE SOURCE and SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS sections.

Highlights at BLUEZONE:

With “NEXUS”, BLUEZONE also sets a powerful trend statement and focus on cooperation. NEXUS is all about connection, exchange, and inspiration. It’s the moment when people, ideas, technologies, and industries come together – when creativity sparks, innovation takes shape, and new ideas are born. It’s the point where everything flows into one, and something fresh begins. One example this season is the HOMEGROWN DENIM LEGENDS collaboration, where BLUEZONE shines the spotlight on influential denim creators and brands from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland – celebrating their heritage, creativity, and impact on the denim world.

The project strengthens regional roots, team spirit, and networking within the industry. Kicking off this coming September, the following personalities will be presented: Loeb Strauss (founder of Levi’s, born in Buttenheim), Erwin O. Licher (creator of three German denim brands), and Ruedi Karrer with rare vintage pieces from German and former East German denim brands.

Future Fashion Assembly, in collaboration with Baytech Sustainable Technologies, will host a special innovation project at BLUEZONE. This pilot will present four to six market‑ready innovators through curated product showcases, live workshops, buyer roundtables, and targeted networking – bridging the gap between groundbreaking concepts and scalable, commercially viable solutions.

Tejidos Royo is presenting its first fabric made from 100% pre‑consumer recycled cotton, dyed using the resource‑saving DRY Indigo® technology. Calik Denim impresses with versatile concepts ranging from hyper‑stretch to workwear heritage, while ISKO introduces RECODE DENIM – an advanced circular technology that transforms old textiles into premium fabrics

ISKO

Tejidos Royo

Calik Denim

MUNIQUE APÉRO

On 2 September 2025, we heartily invite you to our MUNIQUE APÉRO at MOC Atrium 2, starting at 6.30pm. Enjoy some drinks, snacks, networking and music to let the first trade show day finish in good company.

by Chantal Graeff

Heliotex – Studio Pauline van Dongen

Heliotex – Studio Pauline van Dongen

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS

28. August 2025

Textiles have always covered our bodies, but what if they could also power the things around us? Heliotex (formerly known as Suntex), from designer Pauline van Dongen, is a challenge to what people think fabric can do.

Heliotex is basically a way to combine organic photovoltaics with lightweight, flexible fabrics. The result is sunshades and canopies that generate energy and look good at the same time. These fabrics move, fold, and breathe with their surroundings, unlike rigid solar panels. They think of renewable energy not as something that needs to be hidden away, but as something that is beautiful, soft, and fits in perfectly with the rest of the world.

“We focus on outdoor applications like textile facades, festival tents, and shade structures… Of course, we also foresee indoor applications like curtains and sun shading.”
Pauline van Dongen

The fact that Simon Angel included the project in this season’s SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS forum puts it in a bigger story: textiles are no longer passive. They are tools for making big changes in the system. Heliotex shows how fabrics can go beyond traditional categories by working at the intersection of design, architecture, and energy. It is similar to Wetlands Matters and Plantfur.

The effects of van Dongen’s work on the fashion and textile industries will be huge. The textile industry can grow if textiles can collect energy. Sustainability stops being about doing less harm and starts being about giving more value, like comfort, beauty, and clean energy all at once.

The lesson is practical but lofty: sustainability should feel like a part of everyday life, not something that is added on. Heliotex shows that renewable energy can be touchable, welcoming, and even luxurious. This is a call for people who work in fashion and textiles to think of fabrics not just as things we wear, but also as the buildings we live in.

H2 | SI

PAULINE VAN DOGNEN

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by Chantal Graeff

Additionals Trends Autumn.Winter 26/27 – Part 7

ADDITIONALS NEWS

NILÖRN

28. August 2025

The latest developments for buttons, ribbons, decorative stones, closures, linings, lace, embroidery, interlinings as well as labeling and branding solutions will be presented by around 150 leading international ingredients and accessories suppliers in the ADDITIONALS Area at MUNICH FABRIC START. Explore the novelties of NILÖRN here in our ADDITIONALS blog posts:

Inform. Engage. Inspire. – Design Collections by Nilörn

Twice a year, Nilörn unveils new design collections that inspire and reflect our commitment to responsible sourcing, thoughtful design, and attention to detail. The latest collections unite creativity, innovation, and craftsmanship – each shaped through a blend of technical expertise, aesthetic sensibility, and brand-focused thinking to express a unique identity.

HÜGEL – Inspired by the heritage of European alpine culture, HÜGEL blends vintage outdoor charm with a commitment to responsible production. Circular shapes, vibrant colour contrasts, and tactile finishes evoke a sense of playful nostalgia, while the use of certified and Bluesign® APPROVED materials reflects the deeper commitment. Bridging past and present, HÜGEL offers a distinctive identity for brands in the outdoor lifestyle space.

ASH equal – A contemporary reimagining of one of Nilörn’s most recognised concepts, ASH equal draws inspiration from the enduring qualities of denim — resilience, clarity, and authenticity. With a gender-neutral approach, the collection combines clean construction with refined textures, using responsibly sourced and recycled materials. Rather than reinventing for novelty’s sake, ASH equal builds on proven design principles, offering a confident approach to modern brand expression.

Sierra Chamont – Reviving a classic Nilörn concept, Sierra Chamont merges technical functionality with the aesthetic of urban subcultures. Designed for contemporary sportswear, it features jacquard tapes, woven labels, hardware, and paper tags – all made from materials such as recycled polyester, felt, and stainless steel. A subdued palette and precise finishes create a bold yet balanced collection for brands seeking durable and conscious branding.

Fiore – Rooted in classic European elegance, Fiore represents heritage, quality, and timeless appeal. Defined by its crown emblem, the collection blends a refined colour palette of deep navy and soft neutral tones with materials like organic cotton, FSC-certified paper, and recycled polyester. The result is a calm, responsible, and enduring approach to premium brand identity.

About Nilörn’s Design Department

Design is in the details. Nilörn’s mission is to strengthen a brand’s essence through innovative solutions where tactile expressions play a key role.

With studios in Sweden, the UK, Germany, and Belgium, the design team create cohesive, concept-driven branding for fashion and lifestyle products. From labels and packaging to accessories, every element is carefully considered to inform, engage, and inspire. Their own design collections are a creative playground for exploring new technologies and materials — ensuring our designs, and the brands we work with, stay one step ahead.

Visit Nilörn in H1 | B 01 and be inspired.

NILÖRN

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by Chantal Graeff

Atelier Dasha Tsapenko's MYC_Couture

Atelier Dasha Tsapenko's MYC_Couture

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS

27. August 2025

People have long praised couture for its ability to shock. But what if fashion didn’t just shock people with its looks but also made them think about what it was made of? Atelier Dasha Tsapenko’s ongoing project, MYC_Couture, is based on that idea. Instead of making clothes, she grows them.

Tsapenko has made clothes out of fungi, hemp, and flax; living collaborations between the designer and the organism. The coats and gowns that came out of this unusual partnership are dramatic and sculptural. They look like couture fantasy, but their biology is what makes them new. The garments grow back, break down, and eventually go back to the earth. Tsapenko has introduced the new idea of “bioluxury”, which is a model that accepts change and that things don’t last, instead of fighting against change.

“Textures and materials are not produced; they grow.”
 Dasha Tsapenko

This vision is not a gimmick or a small test. MYC_Couture, understands that a shift in worldview from garments as static objects to garments as part of ecological cycles isn’t about keeping things the same, it’s about celebrating change, growth, and coming back.

No stranger to events like Dutch Design Week, Copenhagen Fashion Week, and now at Munich Fabric Start, you will find MYC_Couture housed in the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS space. There she hopes to start a conversation about changing the way fashion and ecology are connected. Her lesson is both simple and radical: sustainability cannot be achieved by efficiency tweaks alone.

H2 | SI

ATELIER DASHA TSAPENKO

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Additionals Trends Autumn.Winter 26/27 – Part 5

ADDITIONALS NEWS

BORNEMANN-ETIKETTEN

23. August 2025

The latest developments for buttons, ribbons, decorative stones, closures, linings, lace, embroidery, interlinings as well as labeling and branding solutions will be presented by around 150 leading international ingredients and accessories suppliers in the ADDITIONALS Area at MUNICH FABRIC START. Explore the novelties of BORNEMANN ETIKETTEN here in our ADDITIONALS blog posts:

Labels do more than just identify—they tell stories.

The Chronicles program is designed precisely for this purpose: for product labeling that is not only visible but also tangible. It plays with contrasts —between shadow and shine, past and vision, texture and emotion.

The Chronicles design opens up an aesthetic space in which depth becomes language: dark tones and textured surfaces create an atmosphere reminiscent of myth—of mystical places, lost stories, and opulence that is always present.

This includes carefully selected materials that make this expression visually and haptically tangible: High-definition woven labels with photorealistic images are made from 100% recycled polyester, offering detailed, sustainable textile labeling with depth. Faux leather labels feature embossed or printed surfaces, while velvet labels convey subtle elegance. Iron-on transfers create shiny accents on dark textiles, and rhinestones serve as sparkling details that add targeted highlights and lend each label a touch of glamour.

Sustainability is not a contrast here, but part of the aesthetic. The use of recycled materials and durable components combines storytelling with responsibility – and creates solutions that meet both design and environmental requirements.

Clean lines, bold colors, and a touch of whimsy:

The “Graphic” label range from Bornemann-Etiketten makes a visual statement – modern, digital, and impossible to miss. Inspired by the iconic aesthetics of the late 1980s and translated into a contemporary design language, “Graphic” combines striking color contrasts with geometric clarity. At the center: a bright green that turns the branding into an eye-catcher – visually bold, deliberately loud, and full of energy.

Bornemann relies on high-quality, innovative carrier materials that make the concept tangible not only visually but also haptically: The collection features woven labels with fluorescent yarns that ensure maximum signaling effect—these labels shine not only in color, but also in their message. Additionally, there are woven labels made from 100% recycled polyester, where sustainability meets textile precision. Neoprene labels with silicone logos offer a three-dimensional, soft, and distinctive touch, ensuring a unique feel and high recognizability, while printed TPU films are ideal for clean, futuristic looks. Durable, flexible, and dimensionally stable silicone badges provide the perfect combination of function and design. As a glowing highlight, phosphorescent synthetic leather labels make sure that branding stands out even at night.

“Graphic” is more than just a look—it is a commitment to bold design and responsible brand presentation. Through the targeted use of recycled and durable materials, these add-ons support sustainable brand strategies without compromising on impact.  The result is a combination of aesthetics, innovation, and environmental awareness.

Bornemann-Etiketten develops digital services on site in Wuppertal, making the label specialist your ideal partner for digital product labeling and customized solutions for your workflows.

Smart Solutions by Bornemann not only offer you comprehensive advice on digitization (MySmartServices), but also innovative solutions for the upcoming digital product passport (MySmartPass). The digital solutions simplify complex ordering processes for labels with variable data (MySmartCreator) and optimize access to care and content information for customers (MySmartCare). How digital are your workflows?

“Smart Solutions by Bornemann not only offer you comprehensive advice on digitization (MySmartServices), but also innovative solutions for the upcoming digital product passport (MySmartPass).”

Stop by Bornemann-Etiketten at booth D18 in hall 1 and get comprehensive advice. The team looks forward to your visit!

BORNEMANN-ETIKETTEN

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by Chantal Graeff

KEYHOUSE NEWS - FELDE FIBRES

KEYHOUSE – The Innovation Hub For Tomorrow's Fashion

FELDE FIBRES

20. December 2024

In the atmospheric industrial charm of KEYHOUSE, Hall 7, progressive suppliers and global players from cross-industry sectors will be showcasing their latest new developments and innovations. On over 1,000 square metres, you will find trend-setting future fabrics and new process technologies – be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalisation & AI, traceability, textile dyeing or finishing. Staged as an interactive think tank, future-oriented show cases will be in the spotlight alongside sustainable innovations.

KEYHOUSE is also home to the main lecture forum of MUNICH FABRIC START with exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions & expert talks by international industry insiders. Be inspired by the wide range of events at KEYHOUSE.

CHECK THE LECTURE PROGRAM

FELDE FIBRES

Felde Fibres revolutionizes Hemp Fibre Market with Superior Quality

Felde Fibres, a German bast fibre producer, is setting new standards with its premium elementary hemp fibres. This innovative quality offers unmatched fineness, handfeel, and appearance, unlocking new application possibilities and reviving the long-overlooked hemp plant.

Grown entirely in Germany with full traceability to the origin farms, Felde Fibres’ hemp is primarily cultivated as a secondary crop, providing farmers with additional income while ensuring top-quality fibres.

Certifications such as GOTS and OEKOTEX Standard100 confirm Felde Fibres’ commitment to the highest quality and sustainability in the textile industry.

Germany – H7 KH | K 08

“This innovative quality offers unmatched fineness, handfeel, and appearance, unlocking new application possibilities and reviving the long-overlooked hemp plant.”

FELDE FIBRES

Visit the KEYHOUSE AT H7 and find the highlights for the upcoming season.

LECTURE PROGRAM

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by Chantal Graeff

LOOPER Textile Co. – A second life for unwanted garments

KEYHOUSE NEWS

Meet LOOPER Textile Co.

A second life for unwanted garments

17. December 2024

Looper Textile Co. is an independent company jointly owned by the H&M Group and REMONDIS. They provide retailers and municipalities with responsible solutions to extend the useful life of garments and textiles through re-use and recycling. At Munich Fabric Start, we are excited to welcome Looper Textile Co. as one of the key players at the upcoming KEYHOUSE during the next show on January 21 + 22, 2025 in Munich. Learn more about Looper Textile Co.‘s mission to give unwanted garments a second life and how they contribute to increasing the likelihood that each garment meets its intended end state. Here’s how:

When it comes to unwanted garments, the challenges we face today are pretty overwhelming. Each year, an estimated 100 – 150 billion items of clothing are produced globally. 

  • The majority of these textiles are unfortunately fated to go to waste, contributing to resource depletion and environmental damage.
  • Globally, around 87% of discarded textiles directly end up in wrongful disposal, while more than 90% are reusable and recyclable.
  • Today, less than 1% of used clothes and other textile materials are recycled into new textile products.  At Looper Textile Co., they keep textiles out of wrongful disposal and provide solutions to extend the life of garments that are reusable. For those that can’t be reused, they ensure that the materials are recycled at their highest value.

At Looper Textile Co., they keep textiles out of wrongful disposal and provide solutions to extend the life of garments that are reusable. For those that can’t be reused, they ensure that the materials are recycled back into the loop at their highest value.

They collect and sort garments to extend their useful life:

Collect: They collect used and unwanted garments from retailers (including leftovers, customer returns, stop orders, faulty items, and post-consumer garments collected in stores or via post). They also collect post-consumer textiles in communities (street collection), via charity shops, and directly from consumers. 

Re-use: They extend the useful life of products (garments, shoes, accessories) through responsible reuse. The majority of garments they collect are eligible for reuse. At Looper Textile Co., facilities, they sort pieces by piece into more than 200 categories so they can meet customer needs and ensure that garments will have the best possible new life. 

Recycle: They have developed an industry-leading near-infrared (NIR) sorting line equipped with optical sensors, enabling them to detect material composition and color and thereby meet the requirements of closed-loop recyclers. For textiles where closed-loop recycling is not an option yet yet (currently the majority), they supply to open-loop recycling solutions (wiping cloths, nonwovens for insulation, and automotive). 

Recovery: A small remainder of garments that are contaminated or ineligible for reuse or recycling are disposed of in established waste facilities, prioritizing energy recovery whenever possible. 

„By investing in advanced sorting technologies, Looper Textile Co. is positioning itself as a key feedstock supplier for scalable textile-to-textile recycling solutions.” – Hélène Smits, Head of Business Development & Partnerships

Looper Textile Co. is a trusted partner in preparing garments for the next phase of their lifecycle. The bold ambition and strong heritage of this young company lies in understanding the retailer’s perspective and best-in-class operations. They are:

SOLUTIONS ORIENTED:

They meet you where you are: They provide custom solutions depending on the starting point and ambition level of the brand or retailer. This may range from securing responsible handling of unwanted garments to capturing post-consumer fibers to be introduced back into brand supply chains.

Circular supply chains: They actively support closed-loop trials to kick-start the flow of secondary raw materials into your supply chains.

Global turn key solutions: They operate three facilities in Europe, and through their global partner network, they are able to provide our solutions across all global markets. Their partners uphold their standards and share their commitment to giving unwanted garments a second life in a reliable and transparent way.

 

OPEN & TRANSPARENT:

Monthly Reports: They provide end-to-end visibility of what happens to the textiles from collection to sales markets in clear and engaging monthly reports.
Authenticity: They are straightforward about the challenges and opportunities they see, as well as their approach to each.
Customer Engagement: They can help you create a compelling narrative for your customers and answer any questions they might have.

INVESTED IN PROGRESS:

Automated Sorting for Circularity: They continue to invest in improving and scaling their automated sorting capabilities in order to supply textile feedstock to closed-loop recyclers with the right specifications. They are taking part in several trials and commercial pilots with fiber recyclers and manufacturers that bring recycled textile materials back into new products.

Responsible Re-Use: They are pushing for enhanced visibility practices within their sector via deep dives into reuse sales markets and transparent reporting. Their leadership in these areas contributes to more secure sales channels and increases the likelihood that each garment meets its intended end state. They are also involved in piloting solutions for end-of-life textiles in one of their main re-use markets in order to tackle the textile waste problem that is present there.

BEYOND COMPLIANCE:

With the introduction of the EU’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles and the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), brands and retailers face increasing pressure to take responsibility for their products throughout their lifecycle, from design to production to end-of-life. Additionally, sustainability-conscious consumers are demanding transparency and ethical practices, pushing brands to adopt circular business models.

Whether you are focused solely on compliance, regard circularity as a key strategic advantage for your business, or anything in between, they can help!

Looper Textile Co.’s solutions are in accordance with ESPR, EPR, and other relevant legislation, and they ensure that you not only meet your producer requirements but also help you achieve your sustainable ambitions.

Visit them at the KEYHOUSE to discover the possibilites for your own brand. Don’t miss them on the KEYHOUSE stage with valuable insights. 

LOOPER Textile Co.

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by Claudia Mynott

Navigating the Future of Sustainable Innovation

Navigating the Future of Sustainable Innovation

An interview with Simon Angel

3. September 2024

Simon, this season’s Sustainable Innovations (SI) exhibit at Munich Fabric Start seems to have taken a more introspective turn. Could you share how you’ve approached the curation for this year?

Simon Angel: Absolutely. If you look at our past themes, they almost read like serialized literature. We began by exploring the challenges designers faced and the industry’s reluctance to move beyond traditional practices. Over time, our sustainable theme has woven itself into the very fabric of our industry—integrating into processes, policies, and people’s mindsets. This season, we’re continuing this saga by posing critical questions and embracing a more holistic narrative. It’s less about solutions and more about interventions and transformative thinking.

Interesting. Could you elaborate on how this philosophy manifests in the exhibited projects?

Simon Angel: Certainly. Take Suzanne Oude Hengel’s “Knit in Motion” as an example. Suzanne’s work challenges conventional knitting practices and pushes boundaries. Her exploration into combining knitting with thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and 3D printing isn’t just about creating new forms; it’s about questioning and redefining traditional manufacturing processes. This fusion of techniques not only rejuvenates product design but also opens up new vistas for the industry.

Knit in Motion by Suzanne Oude Hengel

Joris de Groot’s work is also featured prominently. How does his approach fit into this narrative?

Simon Angel: Joris’s approach is quintessential to our theme of questioning and innovation. His “2000N Pressed Shoe” and “Recycled Raincoat” projects exemplify how traditional techniques can be reimagined for modern applications. By integrating industrial processes with sustainable practices, Joris turns waste into valuable products, thus challenging the very concept of material utility in fashion. His collaboration on the “Welded Loop” project further demonstrates how combining different techniques can lead to novel, sustainable solutions.

Tjeerd Veenhoven’s projects with mycelium are intriguing. How do they contribute to the broader narrative?

Simon Angel: Tjeerd‘s work with mycelium embodies a leap towards sustainable material innovation. His “Mycelium 2D Printing” explores the use of fungal materials to replace conventional plastics and dyes. This aligns perfectly with our theme of questioning and rethinking systems. Tjeerd’s projects aren’t just about creating sustainable alternatives; they represent a paradigm shift in how we perceive and utilize biological materials in fashion.

Iris Veentjer’s “RietGoed” project also stands out. What role does it play in this season’s exhibit?

Simon Angel: Iris’s “RietGoed” is a prime example of how material innovation can address environmental challenges. By developing high-quality textiles from reed fibers, she tackles issues like soil subsidence and CO2 emissions. Iris’s approach is a testament to how sustainable practices can be seamlessly integrated into textile production, promoting both ecological balance and economic viability.

Fabolous Fungi by Ilse Kremer

RietGoed by Iris Veentjer

LightLining by Biotexfuture

Studio Tjeerd Veenhoven

Ilse Kremer’s “Fabulous Fungi” introduces a novel way to approach textile dyeing. How does it fit into the exhibit’s overarching theme?

Simon Angel: Ilse’s “Fabulous Fungi” project is a brilliant illustration of how we can rethink traditional processes. By utilizing fungi to produce dyes, Ilse addresses both environmental and health concerns associated with synthetic dyes. This project embodies our theme of exploring and implementing alternative solutions that are both innovative and sustainable.

 

Lastly, can you shed some light on the BIOTEXFUTURE initiatives and its relevance to this year’s theme?

Simon Angel: BIOTEXFUTURE is at the forefront of transitioning the textile industry to biobased materials. This initiative, which includes projects like TransitionLab and LightLining, aligns with our broader narrative of fostering systemic change. By focusing on biobased polymers and sustainable textiles, BIOTEXFUTURE is paving the way for a future where the textile industry can achieve true circularity and sustainability.

Studio Joris de Groot

How do you see these innovations influencing the future of the textile industry?

Simon Angel: These innovations represent a profound shift in how we approach textile design and production. They challenge existing paradigms and offer new perspectives on sustainability. By fostering a culture of questioning and experimentation, we’re not just enhancing the industry’s practices but also inspiring a broader societal shift towards more sustainable and thoughtful consumption.

Simon, thank you for sharing these insights. It’s clear that this season’s SI exhibit is not just about showcasing new materials but about sparking a deeper conversation about the future of our industry.

Simon Angel: My pleasure. I invite everyone to engage with these projects and be a part of this evolving dialogue. It’s through such collective exploration that we’ll truly drive forward sustainable innovation.

We look forward to experiencing this season’s exhibit and seeing how these pioneering ideas will shape the future.

Simon Angel: Thank you. See you at the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS – and don’t forget: you’ll find us at the Keyhouse in Hall 7 this season!

Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:

by Chantal Graeff