Munich Fabric Start
HOW DO WE PACKAGE PEOPLE?
We were so looking forward to the time after the pandemic and now this: war in Europe, bottlenecks in the energy supply and the highest inflation in 71 years. We all feel like we are out of luck and ill-fated. And that for a very long time.
Of course, the world wasn’t any better in former times. But it seems so to us. And because we experience the present as so troubled, we try to return to the light-heartedness we felt in the past. “I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes – not making image or buzz,” explains Demna. “Fashion has become a kind of entertainment, but often that part overshadows the essence of it, which lays in the way we create relationships between body and fabric,” state his show notes for Balenciaga.
Yes, in essence that’s it: “body and fabric”. JW Anderson sends these two basic ingredients, from which all fashion is created, down the catwalk before he starts his actual show. A naked body and a fresh roll of fabric – that is the tabula rasa, the blank slate on which fashion can reinvent itself once again. “How do we package people?” asks JW Anderson, as if all that were completely open-ended again.

Carl Tillessen
Summarizing the development, Mark Holgate of Vogue said:
“We’re heading into a reset, where all the din and clamor and sheer noise of fashion today doesn’t matter a jot if the clothes aren’t exceptional in their thought and craft. In other words: focus on design, not creating distraction!”
All this refocusing – on the essence of fashion, on the material as a starting point, on the product itself – is reminiscing. This is what fashion is all about right now: taking people on a journey through time to phases of our lives and theirs when we, and everyone around us, were so much more carefree than we are today.
GET INFORMED & INSPIRED AT MUNICH FABRIC START AT DMI:

You can find out how you can make this work for you in a personal conversation with the DMI analysts at the DMI Lounge in room K1 in front of hall 1 at MUNICH FABRIC START.
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
THE SOURCE 2023 - Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part I
As the new one-stop solution for integrated fashion sourcing, THE SOURCE offers flexible sourcing services and solutions for newly conceived value chains on around 2,500 m2 in the new Hall 8, opposite the MOC.
On 18 and 19 July 2023, some 60 selected international manufacturing companies will present their services from cut-make-trim (CMT) to high-end production in the listed Lokhalle, which with its gigantic dimensions is one of the largest cantilevered historic steel halls in Europe.
A cluster of key sourcing countries such as Portugal, Turkey, Greece, Italy or Vietnam will create a business-relevant offer for risk diversification with the right product mix for every segment.

BEEVALUE
Beevalue is a garment manufacturer-exporter established in 2014 in Vietnam. Their main products: shirts, polo shirts, jackets, pants, coats, uniforms, working wear, protective wear, skiwear, home wear, workout wear… have been exported to Japan, Belgium, United Kingdom. They source local materials at low cost and high-quality manufacturing so they are confident to provide best garments at reasonable prices.
COMPASS TEX
Redefine Fashion with COMPASS TEX! COMPASS TEX is one of THE leading suppliers for innovative fashion products in India, Bangladesh, Turkey & Vietnam. Service, Innovation, Digitization & Sustainability enable our customers to succeed in the market with COMPASS TEX. WE CARE – 78% of their products are produced on a 100% sustainable base and 80% of their products is produced with natural energy from crop to the finished product. COMPASS TEX makes the difference in fashion production!


EAST
Step into a world of stunning autumn/winter collections at www.eastdk.com! During the next edition of The Source they showcase the perfect blend of innovation, creativity, and sustainability. Discover how EAST merges cutting-edge technology using 3D with eco-friendly practices, shaping a brighter tomorrow. Join them on this visionary journey and experience the transformative power of style. #EastDK #Exhibition #AutumnWinter #Innovation #Creativity #Sustainability #3D #Fashion #Women

FRENCH PEOPLE DESIGN
Frenchpeopledesign is a leading apparel company with offices in Vietnam and China that offers design, sourcing and manufacturing solutions with a special focus and know-how on outerwear, sweat shirts, fake fur and equestrian garments. Their global understanding of fashion and their capacity to efficiently source fabrics, accessories or embellishments best suited to your brand convinced medium and high-end designer’s brands, department stores and retailers. Discover their expertise in designing and manufacturing of fashionable products.

M. I. INDUSTRIES
Founded in 1994, M. I. Industries is a well-known textile and apparel manufacturer operating out of Karachi, Pakistan. M. I. Industries is engaged in innovative manufacturing with a vertically-integrated supply chain that straddles from greige fabric to apparels, providing end to end solutions to trusted partners across the globe. Their commitment and performance has created an enviable reputation for printable blank products for promotional wears, school wears, athletic wears providing shortest possible lead times with complete logistic support up to warehouse deliveries. Looking ahead, M. I. Industries aspires to make a difference in the textile and apparel industry through innovation and sustainable business practices.



OTS
OTS has an extensive research of garments, fabrics, finishing and accessories, which they propose to the designers and product managers of their customers. This offer is constantly updated and it is seasonally integrated with innovative, yet commercially viable garments. Their focus is on natural and recycled materials. Visit their booth at THE SOURCE in Hall 8 | B 17.

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High-tech connection meets low-tech reconnection
Reflecting on the past and looking towards the future – what lies ahead in the sustainable fashion and innovative design industry?
There are two significant factors driving the evolution of the industry at present. Let’s begin with the first topic, which I refer to as the ‘process runway’. On one hand, the term ‘runway’ refers to the well-known fashion runway or catwalk. On the other hand, we can observe the growth of numerous companies and designers with a sustainable focus, who are maturing and becoming more professional, preparing themselves to connect and deliver. From this perspective, it becomes clear that companies and designers understand the need to continuously improve every step of the supply chain, striving for constant enhancement – what I call the process runway.
Could you elaborate on how these labels are improving and changing their production practices?
Certainly. Let’s delve into the example of Knitwear Lab, one of the exhibitors. They demonstrate how one client’s interactions have led to improved production and enhanced quality in several ways. In the past, their manufacturing process began with a rough sketch or digitally drawn idea. Subsequently, one single idea was prototyped multiple times, thus resulting in numerous samples, requiring significant time and numerous adjustments. This process was highly time and material-consuming. To streamline this process, Knitwear Lab embraced digitization. They created a variety of avatars with different size measurements and body types, providing a perfect digital replica for every body shape. With this approach, they can now experiment with more complex designs and experience the implications of different designs and special materials across all sizes, from XXS to XXL without producing supervacaneous samples, thus waste. This is crucial since the details of a finished garment can appear differently on various body sizes. Hence, they first create a digitally perfect fit and high-quality product. Once flawless digitally, it is then manufactured in reality. The benefits are numerous: customization, time and material savings, and cost efficiency – all essential sustainable considerations. Additionally, they can incorporate quality aspects. Cause after all efficient work processes and resource conservation remain significant challenges within the industry.
Simon Angel
So, they transitioned from specialized skills to a broader scope?
Exactly. The progression follows this trajectory: initially, we have design studios focusing on their core strengths, on what they excel at. Simultaneously, they are eager to explore avenues for improving the customer journey, sustainability aspects, sourcing or design. It entails broadening their scope of responsibilities and possibilities. Within this transition lies immense potential, but it also presents several challenges. This is the nature of pursuing a goal – people need to collaborate, assume responsibility, and expand their horizons to harness the full potential and become more sustainable and efficient.

You mentioned another direction at the beginning. Could you elaborate on that?
The other topic revolves around reconnecting with craftsmanship. There is a growing focus on our human nature, on experiencing materials and products through touch, smell, taste… We are redirecting our attention towards engaging our senses. This year, we have exciting projects that facilitate this connection, inspiring people to participate in the knowledge and production processes. To be honest, this craving for tangibility and the opportunity to get hands dirty or experience materials is not limited to the production and design chain alone; it is also a fundamental human need. In the years to come, I am confident that there will be a significant resurgence in reconnecting and rediscovering the purity and authenticity of things.
Are there any synergies, or do these topics merely coexist?
On one hand we have high tech connection using digital advices for improvement and more sustainability, on the other hand low tech reconnection refocusing on craftmanship and human aspects with feeling of the senses. What they do have in common is the very important fact, that without collaboration, nothing would be the same. Studio Sarmite collaborates with Roua Atelier, Crafts Council works with Enschede Textielstad, Meyers & Fügmann cooperate with other designers. If we realize what we and others are doing, we can connect with collaboration and create something even bigger. That is what we experience ourselves at MUNICH FABRIC START: we collaborate a lot as well, for example with BiotexFuture, Berlin Design Farm and Crafts Council. We try to be a partner in acknowledging, introducing and togetherness with other partners to create something bigger in joint forces.
GET INFORMED & INSPIRED AT THE MUNICH FABRIC START
IN THE SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AREA AT KEYHOUSE – H5!
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
Discover the latest trends from KEYHOUSE 2023
In the atmospheric industrial charm of KEYHOUSE, Hall 5, progressive suppliers and global players from cross-industry sectors will show their latest new developments and innovations. On more than 1,000 square metres you will find trend-setting smart textiles, future fabrics and new technologies – be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalisation, traceability, technology or finishing. Staged as an interactive think tank, forward-looking show cases will be in the spotlight alongside sustainable innovations.
The KEYHOUSE is also home to the main lecture forum of MUNICH FABRIC START with exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions and expert talks from international industry insiders. These are some of the innovative brands that presented their new products during the last KEYHOUSE Edition in July 2023.

ALGA – LIFE
Algaeing™ is all about proactively addressing apparel and textile supply chain practices, combating climate change, and capitalizing on the growing market demand for sustainable and healthy products. With an innovation that converts algae into bio-fiber and eco-friendly dye, Algaeing™ is redesigning the world of fashion and other industries for future generations. Let’s detoxify the fashion industry with Algaeing™ textile solutions!



CLO Virtual Fashion
CLO Virtual Fashion, established in 2009, is a multinational technology company revolutionizing the garment industry. Utilizing their cutting-edge 3D Cloth Simulation Algorithm, they seamlessly integrate digital and physical garment components, leading the market. The transformative CLO Fabric Digitization Service converts physical fabrics into digital assets, enabling limitless design possibilities and fostering collaboration with suppliers. This service reduces costs and unlocks unparalleled creativity. With a comprehensive suite of interconnected products, including 3D garment design software, digital asset management, and consumer-facing services like virtual fitting, CLO Virtual Fashion offers users a consolidated and innovative way of designing.

EYAND
Ecological yarn and 100% natural dying: Eyand is a registered Brand that represents the technical know-how used in the knitting and preparing of the fabrics and garment dying process using natural colors assuring the absence of chemical products. With a family tradition in textiles and more than 30 years of experience, Marti Puignou, General Manager of TIS Group and creator of the brand Eyand has invested all his efforts to offer fabrics with the maximum quality and with an ecological focus. Eyand® holds certifications such as OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, GOTS and GRS.

MONTEGA CHEMICAL SOLUTIONS
Montega Chemical Solutions from Italy is the leader in the production of chemicals and focuses its new research on its responsibility for a cleaner chemistry without penalize the fashion look that always inspires its new collections. Montega gives the input to continuously use the fantasy, to express the creativity without bounds realizing a sustainable art on the garment with Italian flavour.
NEW (RE)SOLUTIONS by Naveena Denim Mills
NEW (RE)SOLUTIONS is a collaborative collection exploring new solutions to design future-fit sustainable denim crafted by Naveena Denim Mills using the latest LYCRA® innovations. The collection is designed by Jac Cameron, and sustainably finished by Chantuque, the first pure sustainable laundry of Turkey. Established in Karachi, Pakistan, in 2005, Naveena Denim Mills specializes in manufacturing premium yarn and denim fabrics, constantly seeking the ultimate union of form and function through creative engineering.

SORONA
Sorona® is a breakthrough bio-based, high-performance polymer offering unique benefits for the textile industry. It contains 37% renewable plant-based ingredients by weight and minimizes the impact on the environment without sacrificing quality and performance. Sorona® can be used in a wide range of textile applications and offers unique performance benefits, including incredible softness, long lasting stretch and recovery properties, UV and chlorine resistance, a quick dry ability, excellent resilience, color fastness, and inherent stain resistance without the need for toxical treatments. Sorona® is a USDA certified bio-based product and has received the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 Certification and blue sign certification.

TAILORLUX
Tailorlux supports companies in realizing transparency in supply chains, circularity and product protection. IntegriTEX® is an innovative traceability system designed to ensure the authenticity, identity and blending ratios of fibers and textile products. The system is based on tracer fibers that contain inorganic luminescent pigments and can be read out by Tailorlux sensors. The patented Chopcot® Dosing Device creates the entry point for integriTEX® tracer fibers. The unit crimps and cuts filaments to staple fiber, and then doses the fiber into the material flow. Visit Tailorlux at their KEYHOUSE booth H5 | 13 to learn more about textile traceability and how it can be connected to digital solutions!

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EACH OTHER
1. each other …
Sebastian Klinder: … is our guiding theme this summer – a very clear one. And one that I think offers little room for interpretation about what we believe will become the key influencing factor on the trends of the coming season: namely, the importance of personal contact, of sharing and being there for each other, of listening carefully and looking closely.
Frank Junker: And there is a meta-level that resonates with and is very important to us: In these current times, it is about not being discouraged, but on the contrary, to take courage, to recognize one’s own scope of action and then to use it to create something beautiful with the form of expression that is inherent to us through our profession – fashion, aesthetics, quality – and thus to make a positive contribution to this world.

Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START; links
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START; rechts

2. Mid of July …
Sebastian Klinder: … is currently, in our opinion, exactly the right date to bring the right people together at the right place and to set the right focal points and topics.
Frank Junker: The date is neither a matter of course nor due to any vanity, but the result of many discussions and considerations. And it is not a compromise – we are convinced that the majority of our visitors and exhibitors will benefit from the rescheduling.
3. Beginning of September …
Sebastian Klinder: … Munich is also a beautiful city. And of course we know that this order date will remain a relevant week in the order rhythm, regardless of the daily sequence of the MUNICH FABRIC START – that’s why the RE:VIEW will take place at this later date in the future.
Frank Junker: Then, by the way, also for the first time at Motorworld. We are sure that with the new early date for MFS and BLUEZONE, the RE:VIEW in September and the PRE:VIEW at the end of November, we have found an optimal solution for many needs.
4. 8 Areas…
Frank Junker: … are the result of a natural process. As a trade show platform, we strive to reflect the needs of our visitors and exhibitors – and clearly, a central place. Where everything that is needed to work purposefully comes together in a concentrated form and in a professional atmosphere. This is exactly what the market is looking for. Our now eight areas – FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, the BLUEZONE, the DESIGN STUDIOS, RE:SOURCE, THE SOURCE, the KEYHOUSE and the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS – offer the essence of what fashion professionals need as points of inspiration and orientation to successfully work on their next collections.
Sebastian Klinder: Ultimately, we want to represent a cross-section of the relevant ecosystem of the fashion industry. We are less concerned with universality and sheer size than with real added value. Thus, our concept THE SOURCE, which will take place for the second time this summer in Hall 8, is the logical answer to the current process of progressive backward integration. And the consistently high frequency at KEYHOUSE over the years is proof that the entire industry is intensively addressing its medium- and long-term future prospects.
5. Speaking of … the future …
Sebastian Klinder: … seems even more difficult to predict today than I could have imagined in 2021. In this respect, the values that are particularly significant to us at MUNICH FABRIC START – continuity, reliability, humanity – are more important today than ever before.
Frank Junker: … to me is the unalterable conviction that physical events, perhaps especially in fashion, are and will be essential!
6. Buzzword bingo: Edutainment …
Frank Junker: … is far more than a buzzword, but cannot be taken seriously enough. The need for orientation and inspiration in this multipolar and over-complex present will even increase.
Sebastian Klinder: It is precisely because of this complexity that we focus on collaboration and cooperation: we want to work with the right experts and some of the best-connected people in the fashion world and trust their advice – whether it’s about our broad lecture program, our trend forums or our innovation areas.
Frank Junker: Because one thing is obvious: nowadays, no one can provide guidance on their own. To do justice to this mission, we need a really good team. And fortunately, we have one.

7. 20 years of BLUEZONE …
Frank Junker: … is our fulfillment of a vision. From the initial idea, to the actually impossible activation of a former industrial wasteland, BLUEZONE has become one of the most important denim platforms in Europe in a very short time. Thanks to a great continuity and in close proximity to MFS. Two completely different worlds, just a few steps away from each other.
Sebastian Klinder: Being able to celebrate 20 years of BLUEZONE is truly an emotional moment. It feels a bit like watching a child grow – of course you try to contribute your best, but it has to grow up on its own. We are very proud of our team, but in particular we want to thank all those who have always believed in BLUEZONE and made it the community platform for and from the denim world that it is today.
8. ConneXXion …
Frank Junker: Everything is interconnected. And this year, everything fits together perfectly. That’s why ConneXXion is the right guiding theme for the BLUEZONE anniversary. I truly believe that bringing the fun back into our beloved denim, fashion and textile world is key. And that’s why we all need to reconnect: reconnect with our personal goals and beliefs; reconnect with our companies and values; reconnect with what’s important and, last but not least, reconnect with each other.
Sebastian Klinder: So the guaranteed best opportunity to connect us all once again is, as always, our MUNICH FABRIC NIGHT – this summer on Tuesday, July 18, when we celebrate 20 years of BLUEZONE, the MFS in general and the entire industry. With this in mind: let’s bring the fun back into fashion together: Let’s get this party started!
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 VIII
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:


SICTESS
PURITY is the new S/S 24 collection by Sictess, a high-end brand of Tessitura Monti, a celebration of the essential and purity, represented by high quality products. Fine double twisted cottons, lightweight linens, GOTS certified organic cottons and shiny silks, give life to fabrics that embody the purity of perfection. Luxury is the exclusive workmanship made in Italy. Skilled weavers create works of art expressed in jacquard, leno weave, plissé and ajour.
TEKSTINA
Tekstina’s approach is to play with design and creativity to create novelties. For SS24 the story is all about Bazar. Imagine to walk through a bazar with all its creative colours and shapes. The new collection features colourful micro, geometrical designs on one side and organic, abstract shapes on the other. It takes you through Tekstina ́s traditional designs, a summer harvest mood or tribal gathering club in Miami.


ZEYNAR MENSUCAT
Zeynar’s new SS24 collection stands for healing with the power of nature. The Cyber Lime, blended with natural and digital elements, calm and futuristic pastels, peaceful blue tones, green tones of nature luminous red and pinks, and high contrast digital colors to highlight the Metaverse. Respecting to nature, our sustainable fabrics and special processes are at the forefront.

TESSITURA MONTI
BLOOMING S/S24 – The theme of colors develops around new textile bases with surprising textures, releasing a contemporary and sophisticated taste. Seersucker embossed effects, ajour micro-transparency, floral prints give life to a collection that is a “bloom” of good mood and lightness. Cotton and last generation polyamide with a “crispy” and hyper-technical hand, perfect for overshirt and functional shirt. Presented pure or with blend (cotton or tencel), their linen has a light and sophisticated hand.




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Next Generation Material – Sustainable Innovations
29. August 2023
Bio-based, locally produced, on demand: that's MYCOTEX by NEFFA – a flexible material whose properties lie somewhere between leather, plastic and artificial leather
DESIGN STUDIOS – AUTUMN.WINTER 24/25
24. August 2023
The collection is shaped by various trends that reflect the ubiquitous feelings, thoughts and needs in society.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part III
22. August 2023
Circular knitted fabrics are produced in accordance with certified environmental and social standards, primarily for lingerie manufacturers, home and sportswear, orthopaedic manufacturers and technical applications.
Drawn by the sun – Sustainable Innovations
17. August 2023
The textiles have the peotic power of tracing time. The changes in the colours make the ageing process visible and make transience a subject of discussion – spiritual as well as material.
BLUEZONE CONEXXION Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
15. August 2023
Their engagement with sustainability was honored at the Bio Day event organized by ECOCERT, where they were awarded as Tunisia's first sustainable textile industry.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part II
10. August 2023
Satins, recycled and natural-looking fabrics and special tactile effects make for great designs.
The latest accessory developments for Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
8. August 2023
Nature meets artificial materials. Upcycling or the use of fabric remnants, offcuts, ingredients from previous collections are another big theme.
Smart Knitting – Sustainable Innovations
3. August 2023
When the programmers of KNITWEAR LAB teamed up with 3D software specialists, a completely new idea for more sustainable, cost-efficient and design-oriented pattern development and knitwear production emerged.
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 – Part I
1. August 2023
Stripes and checks are often seen in Autumn/Winter 2024-2025, tone on tone or through vibrant, ethnic colours. Checks bring movement to these colours and are in high demand as light and elegant checks.
The clothing of the future – Sustainable Innovations
27. July 2023
Bye bye, plastic! The long-term goal is to be able to replace virgin polyester as a raw material.
DMI FASHION DAY LIVE in Munich
How do we package people? DMI FASHION DAY LIVE A/W 24/25
The Business Opportunities To Come
The physical FASHION DAYs have always been the place and occasion for networking, information and inspiration for the industry. After a discontinuance due to corona, DMI is finally organizing such a physical FASHION DAY again. The date (July 17, 2023) and the location (MOC Munich) offer guests the opportunity to “kill two birds with one stone”, namely, to visit MUNICH FABRIC START and the DMI FASHION DAY LIVE on the afternoon before.
Numerous colleagues from the leading companies in our industry who have already registered embrace the initiative because they would like to go back to having more contact with each other again. Because many of them are currently facing challenges that they cannot overcome on their own, but only in coordination with others. Against the background of inflation, for example, one such challenge is pricing, especially with regard to price points established with customers. In this respect, we need to come to new agreements among each other.


“Fashion companies are currently facing numerous challenges that they cannot overcome on their own, but only in coordination with other companies. That’s why, after the long phase of forced contactlessness, we have to come to new agreements among each other – in personal exchange, at a joint event.“
Gerd Müller-Thomkins, CEO
As the central kick-off event for working on a new season, the DMI FASHION DAY program offers decision-makers the information they need to set the right course for winter 24, both strategically and creatively, and also the opportunity to network with decision-makers from other companies over coffee and dinner.
“If we hold the DMI FASHION DAY the day before the most important fabric fair in Munich, it is because it makes sense not only logistically but also in terms of content. It’s about making the information available exactly where it is needed, namely at the moment when, with the selection of the fabrics, the key directions for the season are set.“
Carl Tillessen, CEO

Schedule DMI FASHION DAY LIVE:
2:00 until 2:30 pm
arrival, networking
2:30 until 4:00 pm
welcome
WHOLESALE OR D2C? – A QUESTION OF LIFE AND DEATH
TOWARDS THE SYMBIOCENE – IMPULSES FOR AN ERA OF NON-DOMINATION
HOW DO WE PACKAGE PEOPLE? – A RESET IN FASHION
,
4:00 until 4:45 pm
coffee, networking
4:45 until 6:15 pm
trend #1 SOLITAIRE
trend #2 FEMINTUITION
GENDER SHIFT – EQUALITY INSTEAD TRAVESTY
trend #3 COEXISTENCE
trend #4 QUIET MEETS LOUD
6:15 until 6:30 pm
break
6:30 until 7:00 pm
Q&A with anaylsts and trend setters from the industry
7:00 until 9:00 pm
dinner together, networking
Participation costs € 320 per person. Secure your ticket here:



Outlook on the content:
HOW DO WE PACKAGE PEOPLE? – A RESET IN FASHION
We were so looking forward to the time after the pandemic, and then this: war in Europe, bottlenecks in the energy supply and the highest inflation in 71 years. It feels like we’re down on luck and bad luck is following us.
And so, in recent months, a great deal of nostalgia has spread throughout our society. We reminisce about happier times, when our news feeds weren’t full of live broadcasts of the world’s crises and wars from dawn to dusk, times when we could face those crises and wars as calmly as the news presenter who briefly mentioned them before he got to football and the weather. We long for the carefree days when the earth’s resources seemed endless and not every pleasure was overshadowed by the guilty conscience of wasting those resources. We miss the unalloyed joy you used to feel when you used your hard-earned cash to treat yourself to a car gleaming in the sun, a flight to New York, or just a juicy fillet steak. Back when making and buying fashion was still something to be proud of.
In retrospect, this past life seems like paradise. A paradise we were kicked out of because we did something wrong. Apparently we took a wrong turn somewhere. And now we want nothing more than to get a second chance, to go back to the start and start over.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin expresses this longing for a completely new beginning with his debut at Ann Demeulemeester. He resets the world to factory settings, literally starting all over with Adam and Eve—before they were expelled from Paradise, before they knew good and evil, and before “they realized they were naked.” JW Anderson’s men’s wear show also begins with a model in a birthday suit. A naked body and a fresh roll of fabric – this is how Anderson creates the tabula rasa, the blank slate on which fashion can reinvent itself once again. “How do we package people?” he asks himself and us. As if that were completely open again. Tim Blanks also observes that fashion is currently really putting everything up for discussion: “‘What is fashion?’ was a question that people were asking themselves.” Demna Gvasalia also asks this very fundamental question and, like Anderson, comes to the conclusion that when creating fashion, only one thing is really set: “We create relationships between body and fabric”. In the beginning there was the fabric – this is especially true for Etro. They take us to this beginning and show their men’s collection in the fabric warehouse, between rolls and industrial pallets.
DMI is one of the oldest and leading trend offices in the world. The online and offline events of DMI with their richly illustrated lectures are probably the liveliest and most intensive way to fill up on knowledge and ideas. Please find further information on the DMI website.
Participation costs € 320 per person. Secure your ticket here:
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
BLUEZONE DISCOVERY - Part III
With around 90 international denim, street & sportswear suppliers, BLUEZONE once again offered the complete portfolio of denim innovations in its own Halls 6 + 7. Under the leitmotif DISCOVERY, the denim community shared moments, discovered the latest highlights and innovations. Some material innovations, new perspectives and changes in the industry we present to you here:
ISKO TM LUXURY BY PG
A new range of products is taking the denim world to the next level as ISKO teams up with Paolo Gnutti. Combining ISKO’s advanced denim technologies with PG’s creative vision, the result is the special ISKO™ Luxury collection by PG. Moods reworking selvedge, or inspired by the animal world, then colors, foils, prints, flocked fabrics: experimentations once again ‘Born to Amaze’.


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ISKO
ISKO’s 2024 Vol.1 Collection marks the debut of Ctrl+Z, materials science innovation. Ctrl+Z, fabrics are made from a pure blend of recycled cotton and polyester with regenerated cellulosic fibers: the results look and feel identical to traditional compositions offering unmatched durability. This consistency is even more key when it comes to high-performance fabrics, stretch technologies and comfort fits, signature staples of ISKO’s expertise.


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STROM
STROM is a fully vertical factory & laundry established in 2008. They are one of the leading companies in Jeanswear manufacturing in Istanbul, Turkey with a long tradition of quality and customer satisfaction.
The focus is on innovation and flexibility; and a vertically integrated process enables them to meet the various demands of our partners, from ideas and design through to finished products. With their own sustainable laundry, sampling, design and pattern facilities, production in-house and dedicated sourcing capabilities, they achieve the highest ethical and manufacturing standards.
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VICUNHA
Recognized around the world for its high standards of quality and sustainability, Vicunha is one of the three largest global producers of indigo and twill and number one in Latin America. Vicunha is daily committed to create products and techniques that continually reduce its impact on the environment. The differentiators include, among others, the use of recycled and recovered pre-consumed cotton, special fibers such as REFIBRA TM and Hemp, and water saving up to 95%.



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INSIGHTS OF BLUEZONE DISCOVERY




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Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 VII
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
GRATEX
Textiles are the fabric from which our passion is woven: Gratex is a reliable family business with 50 years of international experience and always on the pulse of the fashion world. Since 2021, they have also been a partner of BETTER COTTON (BCI), the world’s largest initiative for sustainable cotton production. For their customers, Gratex spans the spectrum from fashionable fabric design to yard goods for the coming season. Our Spring/Summer 2024 collection includes traditional and fashion prints, jacquard fabrics, lace, shirting and much more. Fresh pastel shades, bright pink and elegant greens whet the appetite for summer.


MARIA MADALENA DA ROCHA AZEVEDO
MMRA is a Portuguese family business with 40 years of experience in circular knitting. It exports to several international markets, presents a wide range of natural, organic, recycled and synthetic products. MMRA is committed to Oeko-Tex, Gots, GRS and OCS certifications. Among the innovations, the use of materials such as textile paper and banana thread with a pineapple mixture stand out.
LEMAR
Lemar offers a responsible sourcing and fiber choice, eco labels, and fiber-to-fiber technologies in their new Spring.Summer 24 collection. These developments have improved positively the features of the yarns selected, helping to create fabrics with better performance from an environmental perspective. Find value-added fabrics offering advantages across all areas of sustainability, like: Seaqual™, Newlife™, AmniSoulEco™, Yarnaway™, Q-Nova™ and their brand-new fabrics woven with EVO by Fulgar, Sensil™ BioCare and Sensil™ byNature – because we care.


Cody
MEHLER – LODENFABRIK
Since 1644 the woollen mill Mehler guarantees development, quality and service. Due to full integration of their production with their own spinning, weaving, dye-works and finishing, they offer everything from fibre to fabric: everything they do is 100% made in Germany. Apart from main articles such as classic woollen fabrics from carded and worsted yarn, they also develop new products. „Shine“ is unique by its sparkling effect. In addition the composite „Cody“ is a fabric made for apparel with a smooth fabric on the one side and a woollen fleece on the other side. Both made from 100% wool – for quality and sustainability.

Shine
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DESIGN STUDIOS - SPRING.SUMMER 24
The DESIGN STUDIOS area offers creative input, progressive ideas and new designs. Here, textile designers and trend agencies from all over the world show their fabric designs and latest developments for prints and patterns.
Some exhibitors in this area are:
LE STUDIO COPENHAGEN | FUSION CPH | CIRCLELINE | LICA DESIGN | DESIGN STUDIO FLUXUS | ZISSER | BERNINI | BUNTASTIC |
ELEONORA CLERICI | BOGGIA DISEGNI | WHITE STUDIO | BUREAUX BO


BOLDDESIGN STUDIO
Creative handmade prints for the fashion industry and home textiles with painting in several techniques and styles: BoldDesign Studio uses gouache, pens, watercolors, dry pastels, create tie-dyes, scientific illustrations and more.
Located in the north of Portugal, in the center of one of the largest clusters of producers, spinners, weavers, printers and garment manufacturers, they make use of design with deep knowledge of production methods, mixing techniques, reinventing what has already been invented and taking advantage of our textile knowledge.
BUNTASTIC DESIGN STUDIO
Buntastic Design Studio welcomes the new season with fluid forms, refreshing green accents and ethnic patterns from Morocco. With watercolor tie dye and wavy forms the studio let us feel the water. Green as a color of hope, harmony and stability won ́t lose its current importance. Tolerance and interest are travelling the world and celebrating the beauty of its diverse cultures.



BUREAUX BO
For the Spring Summer 24 collection, BUREAUX BO immerses itself in the lightness of bright, cheerful colours combined with blurred textures. Large floral
formats, new interpretations of geometrics and “natural dyes” are the hallmarks of this collection. BUREAUX BO combines years of experience with a strong sense for current trends and innovations.
Located in Düsseldorf we are inspired by a diverse art scene, unusual architecture and diverse cultures. In addition to the seasonal trends, we develop free
and independent prints that are durable due to their timelessness and can be used long term.



FUSION CPH
Fusion CPH is a leading Danish print studio, with over twenty years of experience. We pride ourselves in beautiful craftsmanship, talent from all around the world and delivering our innovative prints with a cool Scandi twist. Our collection is inspired by an analysis of the latest catwalks, street styles and consumer trend reports and our design process often starts by hand, with a focus on hand drawing and painting.






LICA DESIGN STUDIO
Lica‘s new versatile print collection for Spring/Summer 24 is based on two poles that form the essence: ‚Superfluity‘ and ‚Understatement‘. There are various reasons to find joy in the opulence of colors and shapes: It dresses you in self-confidence during uncertain times. And, it might make you question what is real, as the natural and virtual worlds blend. The diametrically opposed ‘Understatement’ finds peace in the reduction of color and the disappearance of form. It looks for nothing less than the essence of harmony. Solitude can be defined as a luxury.




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