Munich Fabric Start
Meet Saitex - the vertical Vietnamese Denim Entity
Meet Saitex:
Welcoming the Vietnamese vertical Denim Entity to BLUEZONE 2023
Global jeans manufacturer Saitex is going vertical as it officially announces the opening of its first denim fabric making mill in Vietnam. The new 100,000 square meter facility is located 40 minutes from its cut & sew factory near Ho Chi Minh City where 18,000 pairs of jeans are made on average per day.
The new mill covers all operations from yarn spinning to weaving and to fabric dyeing and finishing. Saitex has announced it will produce 2 million meters of fabric per month, or 24 million yearly, and some 750 tonnes of yarn per month. These new operations have created 630 new jobs and the company says it will employ 1,000 at full capacity. As it has already done at its cut & sew factory, 20% of the jobs will be filled by people with disabilities.
Like Saitex’s “Factory of the Future” in Los Angeles, CA, the new facility incorporates the latest and lowest impact technologies. The mill is equipped to produce yarns in pure cotton or in blends in dual-core, multiple-core and SiroSPUN technologies.
For indigo dyeing, Saitex has installed the Smart Indigo system that pre-reduces indigo via an electrochemical process. This, the company says, leads to lower CO2 emissions by 90%, requires 70% less energy and 30% less water, with oxygen as the only product released. Karl Mayer rope dyeing machines lead to further environmental savings, thanks to fewer dye bathes, and a 30% reduction in indigo and chemical usage.
Other eco-responsible features at the new site include LEED Gold Certified materials for the building, 15,000 solar panels, greywater recycling and rainwater collection systems. A vegetable garden covers 40% of the total site to feed workers and local communities. Saitex says it has also planted 6,000 trees in the industrial park, and has offset its carbon emissions by planting 50 hectares of mangroves in Vietnam, as part of its plan to contribute to climate neutrality by 2025.
“It has been our long-term vision to close the loop on our operations. With the opening of the mill and the upcoming launch of our textile upcycling facility, Stelapop, our vision will be complete. We will close the circle, allowing us to provide unprecedented transparency in denim production and the ability to turn apparel and textile waste into high-quality goods. Our target is to become the most sustainable fabric mill on the planet making fully circular production possible for our customers.”
Sanjeev Bahl, CEO und Gründer von Saitex
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The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part I
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KEYHOUSE 2023
On more than 1,000 square meters you will find trend-setting Smart Textiles, Future Fabrics and new technologies - be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalization, traceability, technology or finishing.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
Designers as game changer – ASSYST
Purchasing and production are usually responsible for sustainability. However, you can significantly influence costs, material consumption and profitability if you think beyond reusable fabrics – and the key to this is in the hands of apparel designers.
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The New World of Colours – Sustainable innovations
Designer Birke Weber and biochemist Friederike Hoberg are exploring the potential of alternative dyes - specifically, from mushrooms.
Collective braiding – Sustainable innovations
A world in which everything is becoming faster, more networked and more digital creates endless possibilities. But why always strive for the new instead of continuing the traditional?
Clothes that grow – Sustainable innovations
Nature as 3D printer: Material designer and underwater photographer Zena Holloway creates shapes and forms from wheatgrass roots growing in self-carved molds made from beeswax.
DARE & CARE
DARE & CARE
An interview with the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START about courage, the special, the challenges of the present and the trade show calendar in 2023.
1. What can exhibitors and visitors expect at MUNICH FABRIC START in January 2023?
Sebastian Klinder: As an international fabric trade show and Germany’s leading platform for future-relevant textile innovations in the fashion sector, we are once again creating high-quality formats and offerings at MUNICH FABRIC START this season – from a broad and relevant exhibitor portfolio, to top-class lectures and panels, to trend outlooks and numerous opportunities to connect.
We are very pleased that around 900 selected international producers will once again be joining us in Munich in January to show their latest trends and innovations on a total exhibition area of around 42,500 square metres – thus demonstrating that, even in times of uncertainty, we have the courage to think big.
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START; left
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START; right
“We are continuing the positive, motivated and ambitious mood that is evident at the current shows.«
Frank Junker: Nothing ventured, nothing gained – especially now. The conditions are currently changing and this requires openness to new things and the courage to move forward. Not exuberantly, but with care and deliberation. This is also reflected in our motto this year, “DARE & CARE”. Changes are taking place on all levels: from a new sense of community to the struggle for freedom with protests to hedonism and the celebration of the moment; not least the need for islands of tranquility, for joy and above all for real, human encounters. In these topics and controversies, apart from all the uncertainty, lies an immense potential for inspiration and the power to dare something.
In a volatile market environment, looking ahead optimistically is easier said than done for many. As a trade show organiser, how do you look to the future?
Sebastian Klinder: We are well positioned for the current Spring.Summer 24 edition from 24 to 26 January 2023 and can be very satisfied – in a generally tense situation, MUNICH FABRIC START, BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE are all very well booked. This makes us quite positive for the future. Demonstrating reliability, relevance and consistency is what matters now.
Frank Junker: Our task is to always be surprising, innovative and at the same time market- and solution-oriented. Once again, we have succeeded in this. Despite all the difficulties, we offer the usual high level of service, create new experiences and form a business and trend and information platform for the strong and relevant partners in the industry. That is what makes us so special. Being special pays off.
3. There is a central change from 2023 – the summer editions of MUNICH FABRIC START, BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE and THE SOURCE will take place in the second half of July from now on. What do you expect from this?
Frank Junker: With the new date, we are positioning MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE early in the trade show calendar – so they fit perfectly into the international events and rhythms. We are ontinuing the positive, motivated and ambitious mood that is evident at the current MUNICH FABRIC START with inspiring new products, innovative content and future-oriented themes, placing them in an even more valuable time slot.
Sebastian Klinder: With the new trade show dates for MUNICH FABRIC START and VIEW, we are giving our exhibitors a wide variety of opportunities to respond to the new needs and changes in the market. We are absolutely convinced that this is an important and right step. With our new schedule, we continue to offer the already proven time slots for ordering and move forward confidently and with the courage to change.
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
Texfash - Interview
The Biggest Disruption is the Switch from the Seasonal to a Timeless Conception
An Interview of texfash.com with Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH
The turnout and excitement at this year’s Munich Fabric Start matched pre-pandemic levels. What were the changes that you noticed in terms of buying practices? What were buyers looking for? Were they more circumspect? Were people taking more measured decisions?
Sustainability has become even more important than before. Many exhibitors have told us that the first questions buyers ask them are: Are your business practices are sustainable? Are your plants certified? Are your products recyclable? Those are no longer questions of marketing; they are questions of the market. Moreover, the conflict situation of skyrocketing energy prices, the current geopolitical unpredictability plus ever imminent shortages of some raw materials are necessitating fast and even further transformations towards more efficient technologies and processes. Everyone at every single position of the supply chain knows that they can no longer afford to waste resources. So yes, people are taking more measured, circumspect decisions.
Another main topic is the discussion about prices. Especially, Germany is a very price sensitive market. There are fixed retail prices brands do not want to change. Now that raw material and energy costs are rising, buyers and product managers are searching for solutions. This is quite challenging if they at the same time want to maintain their high quality and create collections with exciting, fresh and new looks, colours and materials.
This is also the first time Munich Fabric Start was held since the announcement of the EU Textiles Strategy. Were its overall and long-term implications already reflected this year at MFS? How are companies gearing up?
Many mills and manufacturers are in the midst of or have already shifted to processes that are in accordance with the EU Textiles Strategy. Many denim manufacturers, for example, have adopted dyeing and finishing technologies that work with no or little to no water and entirely without chemicals. Whether it be Muze’s drop dye, Sharabati’s recycling system, Wiser’s oxygen-based, pumice free bleaching process—many have already taken steps to fulfilling the EU’s requirements. In terms of recycling and recyclability, we see that lot of new ideas come up to join forces to use consumer waste as new raw materials to create fashion in circularity. Many countries are looking for solutions. There is a lot to come.
The other thing that has happened, and is still happening, is the Ukraine war. Has it had any impact on Munich Fabric Start in terms of visitors? What was Russian participation like in the earlier years?
To be honest: in this specific case, the first thing we as trade show organisers care about is the people, not our performance indicators or visitor numbers. For sure, this war has an impact on all of us on a way deeper level. During the last couple of days, I had several talks to long-time friends who are affected on a personal level by having relatives in regions that have turned into a war zone, or knowing business partners who had to flee, or just personal memories of travels to places that have now become battle fields. Hearing those stories is heart breaking and it frightens me. On a personal level as well as a professional. Our industry is an exceptionally international one—conflicts are never good for globalisation; armed conflicts and wars even less so.
The Bluezone is a big canvas in itself. It’s a good place to pick up denim trends. How has denim changed since the pandemic?
On an aesthetic trend level, the biggest shift that we see is the concurrency of different trends. Denim is an absolutely ageless phenomenon. And while young generations might be willing to lever heavy qualities from the heritage scene to a wider market, those brands focussing on mid-agers probably tend to source more stretchy ones. The same applies for finishing options. Having said that, we see multiple parallel trends going on in denim. Nevertheless, our own trend forecasters once again identified a meta trend that was able to encompass multiple actual social characteristics and merge them with contemporary ones that move the fashion and design scene—which is why Bluezone’s seasonal theme is ‘Campus’. Under that term we’ve been able to condense a lot of the things that are going on in the denim world right now. And to stimulate education within a community that has a growing mindset and is able and willing to learn and change.
As I have already made apparent earlier, the biggest shift for our whole sector—including the denim universe—is the huge increase in consciousness. Everyone has realised what raw materials are really worth. There is more education around those contexts and a growing interest in details such as social issues or efficiency. We are aware of this demand, which is why we had an extensive series of seminars, lectures and talks at MFS this year, most of which have been centred around circularity, recycling, new materials, traceability and innovations. And we take this matter seriously—we’ve even reached out to enable a ‘coopetitive’ (cooperative competition) cooperation with the Transformer Foundation, resulting in a specialised on stage programme of trans-sectoral discussions and round table talks.
What was the need for The Source, so much so that it needed to be a sub-event and not part of the main Munich Fabric Start?
We actively decided to make it a show-in-show because we wanted to raise awareness for the potential synergies that the simultaneity of a trade show focusing on sourcing and one for fabrics make possible. Think about visiting designers or product managers, and being able to hold meetings with their brand’s fabric producers or even pattern studios and the CMT companies. Our vision is the one of a kind one-stop sourcing ecosystem.
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:
The atmospherica industrial charm of keyhouse
THE ATMOSPHERIC INDUSTRIAL CHARM OF KEYHOUSE
In the atmospheric industrial charm of KEYHOUSE, Hall 5, progressive suppliers and global players from cross-industry sectors will be showing their latest new developments and innovations. On more than 1,000 square metres you will find trend-setting smart textiles, future fabrics and new technologies – be it in terms of sustainability, digitalisation, traceability, technology or finishing.
Staged as an interactive think tank, future-oriented show cases will be in the spotlight alongside Sustainable Innovations. This is also where the main lecture forum of MUNICH FABRIC START is located featuring exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions and expert talks by international industry insiders. Be inspired by the wide range of products on offer at KEYHOUSE.
PIÑATEX
Piñatex® by Ananas Anam is a pioneering plant-based textile now made from up to 95% renewable resources. Piñatex is made from agricultural waste, offering a resource efficient alternative to synthetic and virgin grown textiles. Piñatex is available in 22 colours across 4 different collections, with the ability to create custom finishes for orders requiring a bespoke approach
REACTIVE REALITY
Reactive Reality’s PICTOFiT platform creates value for you, your customers and the planet. Their AI can help in all phases of the product lifecycle from design to visual merchandising to shopper experience, purchase and in the Metaverse. To date we have seen increases in shopper engagement of 400%, increases in conversion rate of 55%, and an overall ROI of 500%
CLO Virtual Fashion
CLO Virtual Fashion is a multinational technology company founded in 2009. With a vision to empower everything related to garments, CLO Virtual Fashion is leading the market by digitally merging, consolidating, and converging all components relating to digital and physical garments through its state-of-the-art 3D Cloth Simulation Algorithm. From 3D garment design software, digital asset management and design development collaborative platform, to consumer-facing services such as virtual fitting on e-commerce, all of CLO Virtual Fashion’s products and services are interconnected to provide clients and users with a more consolidated experience.
MAKEINITALY
MAKEINITALY is a group of technicians in love with a project dedicated to “The Health of the garment we are wearing”. Their innovation is to respect the nature with the re-discovery of traditional Italian textile knowledge. They produce nettle and hemp yarn to create biodegradable fabrics. Dyeing of the fabrics is made with their patent by using vegetable products that reach high and permanent colour fastness.
MONTEGA
Montega Chemical Solutions, specialized in production of chemicals for textile treatments, will present THE PERFECT JEANS for a more conscious use of chemicals through application systems with low environmental impact and certified products. This in order to provide guidelines for a more sustainable and truly environmentally friendly production, to be an active part of the change that our planet asks for every day. Find out mor about their solutions and services on their booth at the KEYHOUSE.
EVENT PROGRAM
OF MUNICH FABRIC START & BLUEZONE
AT KEYHOUSE, HALL 5 & THE SEMINAR ZONE, HALL 7
Be inspired by exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions & Co. by international industry experts.
Look forward to news, insights and first-hand information from the industry.
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
Dicover the latest button innovations
Additionals Buttons - Autumn.Winter 23/24
We present 5 button companies that will introduce their new designs at the upcoming MUNICH FABRIC START.
The latest developments for buttons, ribbons, ornamentations, rhinestones, fasteners, linings, lace, embroidery, inlays as well as labelling and branding solutions will be presented by around 200 leading international suppliers of trims and accessories in the ADDITIONALS area.
BONFANTI FRATELLI
Imagine a world always full of new colors, materials, shapes that is mirrored in buttons collections. Imagine hand-sewed collection samples cards in which buttons are presented in line with the aesthetic and creative suggestions of the latest Made in Italy fashion trends. F.lli Bonfanti is a family-owned company, based in Torino – Italy, producing high quality fashion buttons since 1946. For more than 70 years, the company core business is to create high quality buttons made from different materials – from natural (Mother of pearl, corozo, wood, horn, coconut, bamboo …) to metal, polyester, nylon and abs. Nowadays, grasping the right challenges to protect and respect the environment, they design and produce articles made from recycled materials such as paper, hemp powder, corozo and are conducting studies and researches to use bioplastic materials.
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Knopf Schäfer GmbH
Comfort and coziness continue to be trend-setting factors in the fashion industry, but this fall tendencies are shifting towards more “dressed-up” looks. Knopf Schäfer picks up on both themes in its current collection. Materials such as real corozo or real horn are interpreted in a sometimes rough, sometimes elegant way. Whereas iridescent mother-of-pearl looks will give your designs that certain glam factor!
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KAHAGE BUTONIA
The KAHAGE-Butonia Group presents the polarisation of the world meeting design in the AUTUMN/WINTER 2023/24 season. It’s all WOW! On the one hand extremely chaotic, on the other hand calm and puristic. And in between, a combination emerges that is made up of useful elements from nature and technology.
Collection 77 shows the diversity in an exciting range. Consisting of a large palette of the latest colours that are earthy natural or bold and gaudy in unusual colour combinations. Modern shapes with many interesting colour gradients and structured or lasered surfaces are offered in a wide range of sizes. The focus is on unique in-house developments that have been developed with a great love of fashion and current trends.
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UNION KNOPF
Based on the analysis of global trends in men’s and women’s fashion, every year Union Knopf launches a new collection of clothing fasteners for the autumn-winter season. The presentations feature ideas based on classics and innovative concepts that inspire tailoring businesses. Union Knopf takes a responsible approach to sustainability in the fashion industry, creating raw materials and choosing environmentally friendly production methods. They also respond to new and occuring market demands.
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The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part II
Cotton threads – conventional or organic quality;viscose, when it comes to nature featured inthe fashion collection. Thick threads stand forhomemade, for robust. On light summer fabricsthe strong effect comes out twice as well.
ReSOURCE Spring.Summer 24 materials are online!
With around 700 samples, the area for innovative fabrics and additionals that are bio-certified, bio-based, recycled, recyclable or from regenerative sources has once again grown significantly compared to previous seasons.
Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 I
The collection offers recycled polyester / organic cottonand other eco-friendly materials. Furthermore awide range of fancy yarn development is availableand they are able to produce for Inditex and Join life.
The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part I
A world of solutions. Sustainability cannot exist without innovation
KEYHOUSE 2023
On more than 1,000 square meters you will find trend-setting Smart Textiles, Future Fabrics and new technologies - be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalization, traceability, technology or finishing.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
Designers as game changer – ASSYST
Purchasing and production are usually responsible for sustainability. However, you can significantly influence costs, material consumption and profitability if you think beyond reusable fabrics – and the key to this is in the hands of apparel designers.
100 % collagen, 0 % plastic – Sustainable innovations
This extremely thin, elastic and tear-resistant membrane, also called gold beater's skin, was used in the past as a separating layer when beating gold leaf.
Let’s get circular – Sustainable innovations
What if the leftovers of freshly squeezed juice were not disposed of - but a new material could be created from it?
Fabrics: from maximum padded cosiness to ultra-light fluidity
Fabrics: from maximum padded cosiness to ultra-light fluidityBRICS:
Materials amaze through new extremes – from maximum padded cosiness to ultra-light fluidity. Patterns blow up too an ultimate size and checks and camouflage are oversized. Wool and fake furs offer an enhanced tactile sensation.
6DIAS
The new 6DIAS collection FW23-24 is divided in 3 themes: TWILIGHT GARDEN, CALM NATURE AND THE NEO ROOTS. Cool greens, swampy darks, energising brights and digital pastels will be key colour messages this season, with trendy prints, cosy velvets and teddy fleece and quilted outdoor fabrics. Highlights are winter heavy twills in Tencel and Viscose, Crêpe, Mouslins and Satins, as well as sustainable fabrics from Organic and BCI cottons, recycled Polyesters, Ecovero and Lenzing fabrics.
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AKBAŞLAR TEKSTİL
The qualities of Akbaslar come with a modern and innovative identity for the new AW23/24 collection. Their sustainable qualities make a difference in terms of texture and touch. The new collection is created from a natural perspective which emphasizes the simplicity and unprocessed nature in nature.
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A.P.C. ALMODO
A.P.C. Almodo Print Collection ‘s Autumn / Winter 23-24 collection is calling attention with their impressive lively colours and print quality thanks to high technology production. A.P.C. offers a varied collection of prints with handcrafted and organic looks, sea skins, new wave and geo prints, tie dye, watercolour designs that meets huge range of fabrics on a high level of quality.
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C. PAULI
The Autumn/Winter 23/24 fabric collection by C.Pauli is GOTS certified and focuses entirely on wonderful and sustainable organic qualities such as sweat, nicky, plush, interlock, poplin, gabardine, corduroy, tulle and denim. An enchanting selection inspired by “Quality by Nature”. The in-house ribbon weaving mill Kafka also produces jacquard ribbons in trendy looks on historic looms – Made in Wuppertal. Designs and labels can be made entirely individually here.
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DRESDNER SPITZEN
As a traditional family business with a spirit of innovation, Dresdner Spitzen develops sophisticated and sustainable lace galoons, lace fabrics and functional warp knit fabrics. The latest collection features versatile designs, including geometric arrangements in bold colours, expressive florals with intricate ornamentation as well as playful romantic motifs, in laces made of conventional but also recycled and other innovative materials.
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The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part II
Cotton threads – conventional or organic quality;viscose, when it comes to nature featured inthe fashion collection. Thick threads stand forhomemade, for robust. On light summer fabricsthe strong effect comes out twice as well.
ReSOURCE Spring.Summer 24 materials are online!
With around 700 samples, the area for innovative fabrics and additionals that are bio-certified, bio-based, recycled, recyclable or from regenerative sources has once again grown significantly compared to previous seasons.
Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 I
The collection offers recycled polyester / organic cottonand other eco-friendly materials. Furthermore awide range of fancy yarn development is availableand they are able to produce for Inditex and Join life.
The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part I
A world of solutions. Sustainability cannot exist without innovation
KEYHOUSE 2023
On more than 1,000 square meters you will find trend-setting Smart Textiles, Future Fabrics and new technologies - be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalization, traceability, technology or finishing.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
Designers as game changer – ASSYST
Purchasing and production are usually responsible for sustainability. However, you can significantly influence costs, material consumption and profitability if you think beyond reusable fabrics – and the key to this is in the hands of apparel designers.
100 % collagen, 0 % plastic – Sustainable innovations
This extremely thin, elastic and tear-resistant membrane, also called gold beater's skin, was used in the past as a separating layer when beating gold leaf.
Let’s get circular – Sustainable innovations
What if the leftovers of freshly squeezed juice were not disposed of - but a new material could be created from it?
THE SOURCE - The new hall
THE SOURCE: FASHION SOURCING IN THE NEW HALL 8
As the new one-stop solution for integrated fashion sourcing, THE SOURCE offers flexible sourcing services and solutions for newly conceived value chains on around 2,500 m2 in the new Hall 8, opposite the MOC.
On 3 show days, 65 selected international manufacturing companies presented their offerings from cut-make-trim (CMT) to high-end production in the listed Lokhalle, which with its gigantic dimensions is one of the largest cantilevered historic steel halls in Europe.
A cluster of key sourcing countries such as Portugal, Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia, Bosnia and Vietnam will create a business-relevant mix for risk diversification, the right product mix and for every genre. Discover THE SOURCE and visit the new Hall 8 directly opposite the MOC Munich!
“To expand as a trade fair during the Corona crisis and in challenging times for the fashion industry is anything but a matter of course and was definitely a gamble. We are all the more pleased that we know even before the fair: It was right and important”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH.
“End-to-end solutions from PLV to white label for brands, labels and retailers are strongly growing segment, which we offer with THE SOURCE an extremely high-quality environment in the long term and in close partnership with our exhibitor. In direct connection to MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE and in an architecturally outstanding location, with an extremely high-quality exhibition stand system and a selective choice of international exhibitors.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
The New EU Textiles Strategy: 15 Things You Need To Know
The New EU Textiles Strategy: 15 Things You Need To Know
A contribution of Muchaneta ten Napel, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
The fashion industry produces 92 million tonnes of waste. It is also responsible for 10% of the world’s carbon emissions. The ugly truth is that the way that the fashion industry does business is making an unsustainable impact on natural resources and the environment at each stage of the supply chain.
So what can be done to minimise an industry-wide problem’s carbon and environmental footprints? Well, this is where the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles comes into play.
Is It Empowering the Green Transition?
More than just another set of rigid rules, the new EU textiles strategy is driven to address the need for businesses to take responsibility and act to minimise their carbon and environmental footprints. Proposed by the EU Commission, the plan has been set up to help the EU shift to a circular economy that can tackle fast fashion, textile waste and the destruction of unsold textiles. The strategy also aims to encourage businesses to participate actively in the co-creation process through their commitments to circularity and circular business models.
As part of the EU Green Deal, the strategy proposes to make sustainable products “the norm in the EU.” Pushing forward the idea that all production fully respects social rights, the plan also calls on companies to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable and recyclable.
Bringing attention to a product’s lifecycle, the strategy focuses on design through to end-of-life. The agenda is to kickstart actions that ensure that by 2030 textile products placed on the EU market will be more eco-friendly and long-lasting.
With so much change promised, the Commission’s proposal of new rules can be complex for some to unpack. So here are ten things you need to know about the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.
15 Things you need to know
- The new strategy is part of a much broader package, including as many as 16 new legislative actions and other policies that will directly impact the textile value chain.
- Create a model of thriving green and digital transition in manufacturing.
- The strategy will require manufacturers to give consumers more information on how to reuse, repair and recycle clothing.
- The goal is to phase out fast fashion and have more businesses commit to business models that allow for the reuse and repair of products to be widely available.
- In the textile sector, the strategy hopes producers will take responsibility for their products along the value chain, including when they become waste.
- Promoting the circular textiles ecosystem, the EU textiles strategy aims to support and accompany the textiles ecosystem throughout its transformative journey.
- By supporting innovative fibre-to-fibre recycling, the plan is to reduce, to a minimum, the incineration and landfilling of textile waste.
- Solutions and measures include more precise information, a Digital Product Passport and a mandatory EU extended producer responsibility scheme.
- The strategy highlights the need for accuracy regarding green claims by proposing new consumer rights and a ban on greenwashing.
- Reverse overproduction and overconsumption, and discourage the destruction of unsold or returned textiles.
- Propose mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles with eco- modulation of fees.
- Address the unintentional release of microplastics from synthetic textiles.
- Restrict the export of textile waste and promote sustainable textiles globally.
- Incentivise circular business models, including reuse and repair services.
- Adopt favourable taxation measures for the reuse and repair sector. Lastly, the new EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles end game is to make the EU market more friendly to the environment, circular, and energy-efficient and bring balance back to global supply chains. So to conclude, yes, the EU textiles sustainability strategy is very ambitious, but this is why it is critical that it is implemented correctly.
Are you interested in more in-depth facts and figures of the new textile economy?
Visit the FashNerd.com Lounge at H5 | 28 or join their mini lectures Keyhouse.
About the author
Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.
Muchaneta ten Napel | editor@fashnerd.com
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The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part II
Cotton threads – conventional or organic quality;viscose, when it comes to nature featured inthe fashion collection. Thick threads stand forhomemade, for robust. On light summer fabricsthe strong effect comes out twice as well.
ReSOURCE Spring.Summer 24 materials are online!
With around 700 samples, the area for innovative fabrics and additionals that are bio-certified, bio-based, recycled, recyclable or from regenerative sources has once again grown significantly compared to previous seasons.
Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 I
The collection offers recycled polyester / organic cottonand other eco-friendly materials. Furthermore awide range of fancy yarn development is availableand they are able to produce for Inditex and Join life.
The latest accessories developments for Spring.Summer 24 – Part I
A world of solutions. Sustainability cannot exist without innovation
KEYHOUSE 2023
On more than 1,000 square meters you will find trend-setting Smart Textiles, Future Fabrics and new technologies - be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalization, traceability, technology or finishing.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
THE SOURCE 2023 – SPRING.SUMMER 24
The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.
Designers as game changer – ASSYST
Purchasing and production are usually responsible for sustainability. However, you can significantly influence costs, material consumption and profitability if you think beyond reusable fabrics – and the key to this is in the hands of apparel designers.
100 % collagen, 0 % plastic – Sustainable innovations
This extremely thin, elastic and tear-resistant membrane, also called gold beater's skin, was used in the past as a separating layer when beating gold leaf.
Let’s get circular – Sustainable innovations
What if the leftovers of freshly squeezed juice were not disposed of - but a new material could be created from it?
Blue Lenz Denim Video Awards
CARVED IN BLUE/ BLUE LENZ
The winners of the second BLUE LENZ DENIM VIDEO AWARDS are out now!
Beginning back in 2021, the BLUE LENZ DENIM VIDEO AWARDS is an annual celebration of creativity, technical excellence and innovation in the denim industry.
The Awards take place at Bluezone, the Munich Fabric Start international trade show for denim, street and sportswear.
The BLUE LENZ YouTube channel was launched in January 2020 with the aim to capture and curate all the latest original video content cover stories, education, sustainability initiatives, fabric innovations and trends from the denim community.
Currently hosting more than 430 videos and with upwards of 1,000 followers, the aim is to shine the spotlight on the best and the brightest blue videos, and recognize the best ones with an awards competition in collaboration with Bluezone.
For those of us who grew up in the era of MTV we recall the launch of music videos. It was at that time that music and videos came to life and that eventually led onto the birth of the MTV Music Video Awards in 1984.
We asked ourselves “Why can’t the denim industry have the same?”
As a category of textiles that boasts some of the deepest roots and richest of histories, denim has been an influential component of popular culture and fashion for centuries. denim is ubiquitous. Denim has impacted music, art, politics, culture – and that is what we hope is reflected in the content of the Blue Lenz Denim Video Awards.
In an effort to highlight and champion the best in our industry, as well as to credit people and teams behind each of the denim videos, we nominated videos in 8 categories. We enlisted a group of esteemed judges from around the world to debate and deliberate the winners, and it was those winners that were recognized today at the Bluezone/ Munich Fabric Start event.
Our judging panel consisted of:
Margherita Verlicchi
Menabo
(ITALY)
Michelle Branch
Markt & Twigs
(USA)
Wouter Munnichs
Long John Denim (NETHERLANDS)
Panos Sofianos
Bluezone
(GERMANY / GREECE)
Kara Nicholas
Denim Expert
(USA)
Best Educational Video/ Series
WINNER
Transformers ED Series by Transformers Foundation
2nd place: Kingston University MA Fashion – Denim Project
3rd place: Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim
Best Denim Design/ Collection
WINNER
2nd place: WASSSH! SPAIN IS DIFFERENT by Jose Medina
3rd place: “NAVEENA DENIM MIILLS X ENDRIME® X OFFICINA + 39 “FUTURE CELLULOSIC COLLECTION””
Best Sustainability - Connection to the UN SDGs
WINNER
2nd place: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers – ‘Community Membership’ APRIL 2022
3rd place tie: Celebrating Women at AGI – Women’s Day
3rd place tie: Collaboration with the Textile Institute of Pakistan
Future Forward
WINNER
2nd place: ORTA – ALWAYS TAKE THE SCENIC ROUTE
3rd place: Advance Denim – Jeans Redesgin
Honorable Mention
WINNER
Best Overall Video
WINNER
2nd: Hempy Colleciton by Bossa
3rd : NDM X OfficinaX Endrime
We also want to thank our hosts, Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start.
Photo images available upon request from the live presentation.
Discover further industry-disrupting innovations at our upcoming shows:
"BENEFIT CAMPUS 22" Collection
SAAT & EVLOX FOR BLUEZONE CAMPUS 2022
H 6 | B 0 5 & H 7 Charity Store
With a special thanks to BLUEZONE, SAATMUNICH has collaborated with Evlox and the Influencers @robindenim and @koenkuik with a “BENEFIT CAMPUS 22”- Collection, so you can wear your support for Ukraine in the streets and help fund relief on the ground.
The Collection will be represented at the fair that will take place on August 30th-31st.
The collaboration leverages the respective strengths of both the companies to demonstrate the iconic theme of BLUEZONE “CAMPUS 22”. Modern fabric technology from Evlox aligned with the unique concept creations of SAATMUNICH unveils the modern version of CAMPUS RETRO CLASSIC’s.
SAATMUNICH, an experienced full-service design studio from Munich, specialized in creating individual concepts in fashion and corporate wear since 2015 lines up with Evlox, the oldest denim mill in the world that have been manufacturing denim fabrics since 1846, compelling value for both the companies in signalizing the innovation from fabrics to the designs and their continuous investment in new developments.
The BLUEZONE CAMPUS uniforms are designed as a limited edition, with a purpose to support the charity project „FAIR FOR UKRAINE“. The BLUEZONE staff will proudly wear the uniforms and represent the project on the two-day show. Furthermore, there will be installations and competitions that will highlight the outfits.
SAATMUNICH Designs
SAATMUNICH is an experienced full-service design studio from Munich, specialized in creating individual concepts in fashion and corporate wear since 2015. Led by the creative masterminds and power-couple Thorsten Bulander and Sajna Weber, the studio’s aspiration is to utilize resources carefully and show an appreciative attitude towards the customer and individual. Working with some respectable companies – including leading International hotels & fairs – SAATMUNICH shows to be a trustworthy partner, who is carefully tuning in to their clients, building and shaping perfectly fitting concepts.
After successfully partnering with BLUEZONE since 2016 developing the BLUEZONE outfits with different themes and collaborations biannual, the studio has been redesignated to develop the uniforms for the upcoming show with the new collaborator EVLOX.
The theme being the programmer, the designer duo has drawn their inspiration from the golden decade of hip-hop culture and the sports legends such as Dennis Rodman and Michel ‘Air’ Jordan creating the uniforms which they call the ‘Modern Retro CAMPUS Uniforms’ Reinterpreting the past – ‘WU WEAR at its best!’ Says the denim head Thorsten Bulander.
Amidst today’s technologically-driven design culture, there has been a return to the comfort of familiar imagery and typography. New Retro shows how designs from the past can be updated to suit the needs of today, and this is exactly what SAATMUNICH did for BLUEZONE. The BLUEZONE uniforms feature an airy silhouette combined with the best typography presented by high definition embroidery and application. The oversized unisex uniforms are custom designed for the BLUEZONE staff, where great functional attributes derived from fabrics, and a style fitting perfectly to the ‘CAMPUS’ theme of the upcoming show.
Sajna Weber and Thorsten Bulander, the creative minds behind SAAT:
“We chose the fabric “Evlox – Lewis Smoothic” to design these uniforms. The Smoothic Technology by Evlox is a patented manufacturing process that results in a range of smart denim fabrics with a unique velvety feel and ultra-softness offering comfort that is transformed into maximum well-being. These fabrics earn high elasticity and low shrinkage without losing the original and authentic premium denim look. And what’s more, Evlox, continuing with their goal towards a more sustainable production have minimized the use of water and energy on these fabrics.”
EVLOX
The star ensemble is enforced by EVLOX who is taking care of the fabrics for the Campus uniforms. EVLOX is based in Spain and started as a yarn, weaving and stamping factory in 1846. In its more than 175 years of existence, the company specialized in manufacturing denim, reinventing classics and creating new solutions for the world’s most important fashion brands. Today, totally making over 15 million meters of denim, the people behind EVLOX are still sharing the same passion for denim, striving to the highest quality standards in the fabric manufacturing. Their undiminished passion and investments resulted in multiple patented products and processes, and close relationships with the giants from the fashion industry as well as ‘smaller’ – more niche – brands.
For the Campus Uniform, the design studio SAATMUNICH selected two denim fabrics which were made following the patented Smoothic manufacturing process. The Smoothic Technology, a combination of innovation resulting in a range of smart denim fabrics – with a unique velvety feel and ultra-softness offering comfort that is transformed into maximum well-being. These fabrics earn high elasticity and low shrinkage without losing the original and authentic premium denim look. With sustainability at the core of every step, EVLOX managed to minimize the use of water and energy during the production of these fabrics.
The CAMPUS RETRO CLASSIC’s are executed in both an Ecru and a Denim version and are a harmonious balance of the innovative fabric technology from EVLOX aligned with the unique concept creations of SAATMUNICH.
Help with us – Charity Project „FAIR FOR UKRAINE“
H7 Charity Shop – Bluezone Stage or SAATMUNICH (H6 B05)
With these “BENEFIT CAMPUS 22” Collection you support those affected – and show solidarity.
50% OF ALL PROCEEDS will be donated to the Charity Project – FAIR FOR UKRAINE
SAATMUNICH (booth H6 B05) and Evlox (booth H6 C06)
will be presenting this collaboration in co-operation with the Denim Influencer’s @robindenim and @koenkuik. You are all invited to toast with us at the Bluezone party.