Keyhouse

The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part VI

Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part VI

28. September 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

PONTEX

Since 1972 Pontex presents collections that combine elegance and performance by proposing fabrics for unique garments that last forever. Among the main season’s novelties are velvets proposed with the new crushed finishing too, as piece-dyed version for an elegant look with an innovative aspect. Furthermore, you find velvets with a bicolour effect obtained thanks to the application of resins on garment-dyed pieces. Cupro is the eco-friendly fabric chosen for this season by the brand Made in Italy: light, fresh and breathable and, most of all, sustainable, biodegradable and 100% recyclable.

PONTEX

PRINTSTORMING new graphic books

Our A/W 24-25 colour palette relies heavily on energetic hues such as pink flash, cyber lime and electric jade in combination with black, and takes an almost surreal direction in conjunction with “old familiar” lovely motifs. Are you currently looking for support in taking your designs from 2D to 3D, or are you looking for fresh design input for your moodboards? Feel free to come by, we will show you what possibilities we have for you.

PRINTSTORMING

PROJECT SRL

Quality, sustainability and innovation: our autumn.winter 24/25 creations combine traditional techniques with modern aesthetics. Project SRL blends fibers together creating soft and light color mixes to obtain delicate yet compact fabrics with textured and three dimensional surfaces. They utilized dyed threads such as mouliné, flamed and buttoned yarns to provide a fresh interpretation of classic pied de poule, check and cover fabrics.

PROJECT

SERIDE SRL

Sense of memories and traditions are shown in the “Suspended moment” theme (dull yellow, blue ruined and corroded by sand). Nature symbolism preservation is described in their second theme “Re-Born” characterized by nature’s lush greens and warm shades of pinks. Different shades of deep blue and contrasting accents are part of the third theme “In the darkness” and synthetics pinks, fake platinum blondes and plastic silver delineate the last “It’s Fantastic” theme.

SERIDE

SEIDRA TEXTILWERKE

In the new winter collection from Seidra, classic bindings, through multicolored chains, become colorful eye-catchers. To ensure a good combination possibility, they partly offer up to 20 colour variants per article. In addition to the usual high-quality pure wool articles, they also offer attractively priced alternatives. In knitwear they have modern and traditional patterns as well as NOOS articles availabl

SEIDRA

SERIKO GROUP

Seriko Group was established in 2010 after 29 years of experience in textile business. They provide woven fabrics with compositions deriving from filament viscose, staple viscose, cotton, linen, acetate, modal, tencel, polyester and their blends. Sustainability is at the heart of their fabric developments like organic, recycled and sustainable compositions that are available. They work with some of Turkey’s leading dyeing and printing factories to achieve the best results on woven fabric qualities.

SERIKO

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by Chantal Graeff

The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part V

Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part V

21. September 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

MYSIA FABRIC

Mysia Fabric produces with innovative materials for a greener future. Their production facility offers all brands and designers answers to sustainable and fast deadlines demands. With its designers who closely follow the world fashion trends, it creates two main and two intermediate collections per year and prepares special collections according to customer demand.

MYSIA FABRIC

NOOTEBOOM TEXTILES

Nooteboom Textiles’ winter collection contains a wide range of knitted and woven fabrics. Highlights are stretch leather, lurex chanel and wool bouclé mélange. Nooteboom also offers a strong selection in chiffon lurex prints, ponti di roma prints, viscose prints and denim prints which can be combined with several plain dyed basics.

NOOTEBOOM TEXTILES

ÖZDOKU

Founded in 1970, Özdoku is one of the leading fabric producers in their sector which always gives priority to quality, best service and sustainability. With the new 24/25 AW collection, Özdoku aims to continue eco-friendly production & sustainability and offers a wide range of woven, jacquard and jersey collections by referring to new fashion trends. Their line is dedicated for Women’s, Men’s and Kids wear for Pants, Jacket,Skirts, Dress, Suiting, and many more.

ÖZDOKU

ÖZTEK

ÖZTEK, TURKEY addresses the need for functional but versatile garments. New mobility and all-purpose functional items which are breathable, durable, yet fashionable are key wardrobe drivers. Using sustainable materials to create adaptable pieces to extend garment life span and longevity, Öztek’s new line of functional fabrics combines an authentic fashion approach with core usability – also for bonded articles.

ÖZTEK

POLYTEX STOFFEN

Focusing on sustainability, their latest fabric innovation for the autumn/winter collection 24/25 season introduces pineapple-derived material. Other bestsellers remain modal, viscose and bamboo. The collection showcases fascinating colours such as ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Harvest Pumpkin’, ‘Tomato’ , ‘Viva Magenta’ and ‘Amethyst Orchid’. Abstract designs and blurry prints remain on trend and reflect the modern aesthetic of the collection.

POLYTEX STOFFEN

PONGEES

Silk specialists Pongees has added more colour options to its top selling qualities, such as marocain, taffeta, georgette, sand washed spun silk and stretch satin, and will be launching new shades of pastels and deeper tones at the show. Some collections are now available in more than 100 colours. Minimum order is 1 metre and fabrics are held in stock at its UK warehouse so delivery is fast. Pongees has set up a specialist delivery service so European customers with a VAT/EORI number will be able to receive their orders free of any additional import charges – just as they did pre-Brexit.

PONGEES

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by Chantal Graeff

A cultural heritage - Sustainable Innovations

A cultural heritage

The Linen Project by Crafts Council Nederland

Sustainable Innovations

19. September 2023

Flax was traditionally grown as a crop in the Netherlands, and Dutch linen was one of the most sought-after for a long time because of its good quality. Today that is no longer the case. Therefore, in 2018, Crafts Council Nederland, in cooperation with the Fashion Design Master of ArtEZ University, initiated ‘The Linen Project’ to revive the economic viability of local flax cultivation and linen production in the Netherlands, while transforming it in a sustainable way.

The Linen Project aims to change and challenge thinking in a multidisciplinary way across fields and sectors – agriculture, history, heritage, (landscape)
architecture, fashion, food, crafts, design, contemporary art, economics, innovative business. After all, the whole world is changing. On the one hand, people are more digitally connected to each other than ever before. But at the same time, there is a growing interest in connecting to the products we use and consume every day and how they are made. How and where are our roots? How can we reconnect with deep human values and ancient knowledge and skills? The Linen Project explores the tradition of linen production in the Netherlands and drives the exchange of different values, knowledge, skills and competences across industry boundaries.

Learning by doing is the motto of the project: prototypes of new economic, social and cultural ecosystems are created in a dynamic environment, demonstrating the vital importance of (biological) diversity. The production process involves only four steps – the flax from 2019, for example, was grown on the Lingehof near Arnhem (NL), mechanically processed by Van de Bilt Zaden en Vlas in Sluiskil (NL), spun in Poland and woven into linen by Enschede Textielstad in Enschede (NL). In the process, “old” knowledge meets new technologies, so that future production is based on and builds on a restored connection between people and nature.

“The Linen Project is our collaborative effort to understand the making of local textiles and experience the beauty of it. This is a shared journey where we, learning by doing, rediscover our relationship with nature and each other.”

WILLEMIEN IPPEL, CO-FOUNDER CRAFTS COUNCIL NEDERLAND

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19. January 2026

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18. January 2026

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17. January 2026

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by Chantal Graeff

Cooperation is key - Sustainable Innovations

Cooperation is key

Process Runway – from farm to fabric by Enschede Textielstad

Sustainable Innovations

12. September 2023

Local and recycled: Enschede Textielstad was founded in 2013 by Annemieke Koster to create responsibly produced fabrics from recycled yarns and local raw materials such as flax, hemp and wool for apparel and interior textiles. To keep the supply chain as short and regional as possible, one of the main focuses of the concept is to develop smart and circular uses of waste streams and local resources – for example, Dutch wool. Its quality is not good enough to make clothes from, and to date there has been no viable business model in sight for this resource – so it has been burned. However, what is not good enough for clothing may be absolutely sufficient for other purposes, so Enschede Textielstad now weaves fabrics from the wool that are ideal for upholstered furniture.

The same applies to linen – there have been no projects with economic viability in the Netherlands to date. To change this, The Linen Project was founded in 2019 as an initiative of Crafts Council Nederland and ArtEZ University of Fine Arts (see feature in also this Sustainable Innovations issue). In 2020, the two projects began a collaboration based on division of labor, with Enschede Textielstad acting as a weaving mill for flax cultivated in the Netherlands.

“We are bridging the gap between mass production and laboratory scale testing. We do so with a focus on sustainable, local and social production on the most innovative machine the industry has to offer. With our investment and expertise we help the industry move forward by testing new materials in early stages of development.”

ANNEMIEKE KOSTER, FOUNDER ENSCHEDE TEXTIELSTAD

This collaboration is accompanied by a new cooperative business model: instead of simply selling the fabric by the meter to customers, a subscription model was designed for The Linen Project. Customers become part of the supply chain and share responsibility for the process of harvesting, weaving and finishing. The fabrics are then sold as “lots”, with all the imperfections as these are part of the subscription.

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19. January 2026

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18. January 2026

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17. January 2026

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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part IV

Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 2024/ 25 - Part IV

7. September 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

KNIPIDEE

Knipidee International, a family business with its roots in the Netherlands and now growing strongly outside the borders with focus on a strong basic and seasonal fabric collection. The new collection is as usual stylish and versatile, with fabrics like warm faux fur, lots of quilted fabrics for luxury coats, corduroy stepped, knitted jacquards, velvet and beautiful satin designs.

KNIPIDEE

Leichtfried Loden

Sustainability 2.0 – Leichtfried Loden does care about animal welfare and they have only been using certified mulesing-free Australian Merino wool since 2020. From autumn 2023, they will go one step further and certify the entire production process according to RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) in order to meet the high requirements of their customers.

Leichtfried Loden

LEMAR

Transforming Waste into Opportunity! Advancing sustainability with fabrics woven with yarns developed from Recycled End-of-Life Tyres! Discarded tyres have become a global concern and it is crucial to explore innovative solutions that promote a circular economy. By transforming this waste into amazing fabrics, Lemar will be able to deliver environmental preservation, resource efficiency, and economic benefits. Come and see yourself!

LEMAR

LENZING

The Lenzing Group stands for ecologically responsible production of specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood and strives for the efficient utilization and processing of all raw materials and offers solutions to help redirect the textile sector towards a sustainable industry. As an innovation leader, Lenzing is a partner of global textile manufacturers and drives many new technological developments. TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ is one of the sustainable fiber innovations which contributes to circular economy. The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment production.

LENZING

MER FABRIC

Mer Fabric, a fabric manufacturer specializing in garments, has exciting plans to introduce fresh woven fabrics in various categories such as shirts, pants, dresses, and childrenswear. Our aim is to cater to specific customer requirements with enhanced flexibility. Furthermore, we are actively engaged in advancing sustainable products, constantly striving to make notable progress in this area.

MER FABRIC

MMRA

MMRA is a Portuguese family business with 40 years of experience in circular knitting. It exports to several international markets, presents a wide range of natural, organic, recycled and synthetic products. Among the innovations, the use of compositions with mixtures of Nettle, Printed Yarns, Linen, Tencel, and banana with pineapple stands out. M.M.R.A. is committed to Oeko-Tex, Gots, GRS and OCS certifications.

MMRA

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Circularity is key - Sustainable Innovations

Circularity is key

Pre-Loved von Studio Sarmite + Roua Atelier

Sustainable Innovations

5. September 2023

From old to new: Pre-Loved is a biotextile concept in which new products are created from used post-consumer textile waste. In a unique production process, low-quality mixed textile fibres are transformed into a robust, paper- and leather-like material that is suitable for a variety of applications – from fashion to interior design and product design.

Designer Sarmite Polakova gives waste a new meaning in this context: instead of something negative, she perceives it as a surplus recyclable material that can, however, at the same time be a resource for the creation of something new – the focus here is on circularity: it is about the recyclability of the material; a product made by Studio Sarmite can be dissolved at the end of its life and the textile fibres can be used for the next production cycle. The lightweight material displays a processuality, revealing a new aesthetic and highlighting each previous life of a worn garment through nuances of colour and texture. It can feature marble-like patterns as well as hues accentuated by natural dyes.

“The term ‘waste’ should be seen as a surplus rather than something negative and thus can be turned into a resource for creating something new.”

SARMITE POLAKOVA

Cooperation is key – first Sarmite Polakova of Studio Sarmite teamed up with colour specialist Roua Alhalabi of Roua Atelier. The result of the collaboration is a groundbreaking dyeing method for blended fabrics based on natural pigments. The dyeing process is integrated into the production of the organic biotextiles and leads to a unique design language that gives room for surprising patterns and a certain playfulness. Moreover, the two designers have found a way to extract the dye during the recycling process of the textiles and use it for the next life cycle without the need for additional resources.

“Nature gives us a lot of resources that can be used in the natural dye industry. In fact, everything around us can be used to make color and support new materials. By using eco- riendly materials, we can become more sustainable and make a good impact.”

ROUA ALHALABI

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18. January 2026

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Next Generation Material - Sustainable Innovations

Next Generation Material

MYCOTEX by NEFFA von Aniela Hoitink

Sustainable Innovations

29. August 2023

Bio-based, locally produced, on demand: that’s MYCOTEX by NEFFA – a flexible material whose properties lie somewhere between leather, plastic and artificial leather. Production takes place in three steps: First, customisable and/or recyclable forms are created in an automated 3D design process. With the help of liquid fermentation, innovative materials are produced – the technique works for mycelium, but is also suitable for other biomaterials. In the end, the final textiles are produced by robotic applications without any weaving, cutting or sewing. In this way, the modelling process is similar to the injection moulding process – except that only natural materials are used instead of plastics.

In leather production, the most resource-intensive factors are the land required for animal husbandry, the consumption of water for tanning, the energy required and the CO2 emissions. It is precisely in this production chain where MYCOTEX comes into play: Resource-saving robotic applications can save 10 to 30 percent of waste, and in addition, the production of materials and products takes place directly on site, so there are no emissions for transport. The textiles are biodegradable and can even be composted at home.

More than Mycelium: At the beginning of the project, founder Aniela Hoitink focused in particular on the material MYCOTEX. Within the last three years, this has developed into NEFFA, a completely automated manufacturing method for different types of biomaterials. NEFFA stands for New Fashion Factory. The innovative system is based on automation, can be recycled and offers unlimited freedom of design. The patented process offers unprecedented design freedom to create silhouettes and textures that would never have been possible with traditional manufacturing methods and creates a local and completely transparent process that can be adapted to constant changes. For the textiles of tomorrow.

“The fashion and textile industry is working on steps to improve: material innovation, better dyeing processes, a reduction of water, quick fixes that are needed right now. This will not be enough in the future. We need a big step to transform the industry. And we need it to be local, with a better working environment and without waste.”

ANIELA HOITINK

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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part III

Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 2024/ 25 - Part III

22. August 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

GRATEX

Textiles are the fabric from which our passion is woven. Gratex is a reliable family business with 50 years of international experience, always on the pulse of the fashion world. As a partner of BCI and GOTS, they offer a large number of our articles with organic cotton.

The new collection for autumn.winter 24/25 consists of traditional and fashion prints, jacquard fabrics, lace, shirting and cosy knitwear.

The colour palette this season ranges from warming earthy tones to fresh pastel shades and vibrant purple and pink.

GRATEX

HÄNDEL + DILLER GMBH

Händel + Diller has been knitting fabrics in southern Germany since 1962. Under the premise of certified environmental and social standards, circular knitted fabrics are produced for manufacturers of lingerie, home- and sportswear, orthopaedics and technical applications. The range for the Autumn.Winter 24/25 collection also includes GOTS-certified wool fleece made of 100 % merinowool or in cotton blends, including jacquard patterns.

Händel + Diller GmbH

HEINRICH SUNDAG TEXTILDESIGN + VERTRIEB

Autumn/winter time is time for wool. Wool in many weights, knitting techniques and creative interpretations. Boiled wool 100% wool, uni or printed, boiled wool 80% wool+20% cotton in plain and colourful jacquards also with relief and tops, wool plush, wool fleece, wool knits, wool jerseys conventional, controlled organic animal husbandry and GOTS. Heavy wool-cotton jacquard knits Cotton teddy uni and as jacquards with wool – more wool is not possible!

Heinrich Sundag Textildesign + Vertrieb

JERSEY PRINT FACTORY

Discover the family-owned fabric company with 30+ years of industry experience: Jersey Print Factory offers custom, high-quality fabrics with no minimum order requirements. Find classic or contemporary designs at their booth and unleash your creativity with reactive printed fabrics. Bring your fashion dreams to life, one meter at a time. You can create custom apparel by simply upload your design and place your order. They’ll take care of the rest.

JERSEY PRINT FACTORY

JJR SPIN TEXTILES LLP

The collection is inspired by floral motifs with natural geometric and abstract patterns. The colours are mainly natural tones with vibrant pops for added brightness. They use hand-woven tweed, computer and hand embroidery techniques. For embroidery, they work with various bases like sequins, velvet, wool, cotton, and viscose and also offer 100% silk tweed and blended fabrics. The new collection showcases the beauty of floral designs through hand-woven tweed, computer, and hand embroidery techniques. A range of fabric bases including silk and blends is used to create a visually stunning and textured collection.

JJR SPIN TEXTILES LLP

KAYTEKS

Kayteks, established in 1965, is currently advancing its production adventure in the field of knitted fabrics and ready-made products. Priorities such as quality, on-time delivery, and quick response to customer requests have been determined as competitive priority. Sustainability, organic and analysis of trend products in knitted fabrics and products are the primary components that Kayteks follows in its R&D processes.

KAYTEKS

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Drawn by the sun - Sustainable Innovations

Drawn by the sun

SLOW PATTERNS von Meyers & Fügmann

Sustainable Innovations

17. August 2023

Textiles as witnesses of time: SLOW PATTERNS is a collection by the Berlin studio Meyers & Fügmann that changes over time due to the influence of sunlight. This works by using an unconventional technique that combines the natural and the artificial. In concrete terms, this means that European is woven and dyed in Europe by hand, with the side effect of preserving traditional skills of the European textile industry. The collection combines wool with synthetic yarns. When the textiles are exposed to UV light, the natural dyes fade over time, while the stable synthetic colours retain their shades, changing the materials and eventually revealing delicate patterns.

The textiles have the peotic power of tracing time. The changes in the colours make the ageing process visible and make transience a subject of discussion – spiritual as well as material. Seeing the textiles develop creates an emotional relationship, as both the owners and the objects age side by side. The textiles thus reflect and make transience visible. In doing so, they raise questions about physical obsolescence. Instead of connoting these aspects negatively, SLOW PATTERNS encourages us to value the products over their entire lifespan and to accept and celebrate their changes as well as our own.

A sign against fast fashion: the low lightfastness of natural materials is often seen as a shortcoming. Meyers & Fügmann, on the other hand, show with their project how aesthetically natural colours change and that beauty can lie in this process. SLOW PATTERNS thus becomes a plea for the dignity and vitality of natural colours.

“Lightfastness is a relevant topic for future industries, as natural and recycled dyes and fibers demonstrate lower lightfastness.
Our approach is to show the liveliness of natural colours and romote them as a real alternative to synthetic dyes, opening markets for less durable colours. The aging process is designed into the product in order to foster a debate about slow consumerism and the relationship we have with our belonging.”

SARAH MEYERS AND LAURA FÜGMANN

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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part II

Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part II

10. August 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

ELYAF

Founded in 1989, Elyaf® is a women’s fabric and garment manufacturer, based on 22,000 square metres, as a fully integrated facility in Bursa, Turkey. Their focus is on sustainability through manufacturing value-added fabrics and garments without causing harm to people, the ecosystem and our planet.

ELYAF

ERSAT TEXTILE

ERSAT TEXTILE is one of the most successful fabric producers in TURKEY with its integrated factory from weaving till ready garment. ERSAT offers versatile production chains (Poliviscose, Polyester, Cotton, Linen, Wool blends with PES). They also produce fabrics (Recycled and Ecovero bases )for  Men’s and Women’s Suits, Jackets, Pants, Outerwear, Dresses, Shirts etc. Dying and all finishing processes include 2,500,000mts capacity per month.

ERSAT TEXTILE

FABRIC & CO

FABRIC & CO offers a wide product range and focuses on environmentally friendly production with sustainable fabrics. Current trends are reflected in perfect harmony with prints and plain colors. Satins, recycled and natural looking fabrics and special touch effects result in great designs. Find different pattern colours and designs in the new collection.

FABRIC & CO

FEINJERSEY

Feinjersey presents its new collection brand dfine. High end fabrics made in Austria – designed for the human body. The new dfine. collection is segmented into 5 sections:
Avant – Fashion Forward Fabrics (stock program),
Ivory – second skin underwear,
Apex – functional asthetics,
Forma – fluid shaping and
Armis – elite safety.

FEINJERSEY

FORZA

Forza’s new autumn.winter 24/25 collection is a creation of elegant, stylish and casual prints: ikat. ethnic, watercolour, ombre, tie dye, patchwork, animalskin, monos with earthyand natural colours or combinations of bright, warm orange, purple, blue andt urquoise tones. Get creative inspiration at their booth with a variety of sustainable produced, light and heavy weight fabrics, dobby, structured weaves, twills, cord, satins, mesh as well as chiffons, cotton/linen blends.

FORZA

GOTTSTEIN

Founded in 1926, Gottstein is an Austrian family-owned manufacturer located in the Tyrolean mountains. They are experts when it comes to felted wool fabrics and wet processing with experience for over four generations. This time their main focus for their AW 24/25 collection are reliefs and sculptural felted fabrics made of merino wool as well as undyed wool fabrics.

GOTTSTEIN

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by Chantal Graeff